Brake pad fell apart - Suburban, not an escort

This is the only auto site I'm a member of, so asking a generic brake question for my work truck, a Chevy Suburban.

"The Brake Team", which I think is a local company, replaced all brake pads, drums and rotors less than 2 years ago (20k miles ago). My survey crew drives this daily for work, and there is a lot of equipment in it, so its heavy, with lots of stops on dirt construction sites, so pads are expected to wear quicker than normal.

This week, the front right brake pad is down to the metal. It appears to me that the pad fell off. Its under warranty, so I took the truck back, and they told me the caliper seized up, which destroyed the rotor and pad, plus the rear cylinder is leaking and needs replaced, with a price of $700 to fix all. Visually, the rotor looks fine, no deep grooves.

My question... would a caliper seizing destroy the pad like this? The brakes worked fine until the metal on metal sound of no pad a couple days ago.

I think they are attempting to take advantage of me, especially since its a work truck. They didn't realize I have some mechanical knowledge, and am part owner of the company, so price actually matters. I told them to just replace the warranty items, and I'd do the rest at home. Suddenly the price dropped to $400. Still I said no, give me new pads and rotors for free, and they did.

I'm picking it up tomorrow morning, so I haven't tested the old caliper yet.

There is no way it would cost that much to replace a caliper and wheel cylinder. A wheel cylender for my Escort was $12 and the caliper was $37 + core. I don't know what they go for on a Suburban but it should be under $100 for both before cores.

When you get the vehicle back take it out and drive it several miles, if it's got a sticking caliper the brake system on the side with the sticking caliper should be very hot. I'm wondering if one of the pads simply fell off the metal backing, I've had that happen a couple times with bonded shoes/pads the glue simply gave way. Wheel cylinders for most cars are really cheap and are simple to change, but if you have one that's bad it's most likely going to show leakage at the rubber end boots of the cylinder. Regardless of what you find if you open the hydrolic system don't forget to bleed the brakes when you put it back together.

I'm surprised they even did that. They probably used Chinese replacement parts.

May be that is why it wore up so quick Chinese [email protected] I have work on GMC and Chevy before so one way to test a caliper that is stuck or apparently is do temperature test for a stuck close caliper and do a hard stop from let say 25mph it the vehicle pulls to a side (left) is the left caliper is ok but the right one is stuck open.

The one I did I simply rebuild it and solve the sicking problem. ($16 on the repair kit) as for the wheel cylinder goes replacing them is cheap insurance against rebuilding them.

yes a sticking brake caliper will let the pad ride against the rotor wearing it down really fast. you should have told them to replace the caliper and pads. thr rotor was probably fine. but who knows with out micing it. you also can rebuild calipers. as long as the hard parts are good and no pittign. you can unstick them for awhile too.