Brake line replacement | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Brake line replacement

Discussion in 'Wheels/Tires/Brakes' started by wa1dh, Nov 20, 2010.

  1. wa1dh

    wa1dh FEOA Member

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    I don't have any problems with my brake lines (yet), but I'm curious as to how one goes about replacing the solid steel brake lines on our cars. Specifically, I have a 3rd gen. I know lines rust out over time, and mine don't look too pretty in some spots. I've covered them in rustoleum for the time being, but I know I'm only buying time.

    Would I have to remove the entire line and buy new solid steel lines, and bend them with a line bending tool, or is it possible to replace them with flexible lines (much easier I would imagine). I was looking on Autozone's website and saw a flexible line, part # PAC-525, listed for our cars. It appears to be a 25' coil of flexible brake line. Is that something that could be hooked up in place of the solid lines? I would imagine it is DOT approved and legal if they are selling it(?)

    Just curious, as this is one of the kind of repairs I've wondered about and know I will face at some point.
  2. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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  3. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    Also get yourself a tubing bender and/or a pair of brake line bending pliers.
  4. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    Also get yourself a tubing bender and/or a pair of brake line bending pliers. The PAC-525 just looks like standard bulk brake line. You don't have to remove the entire line, just the section that is rusted out.
  5. wa1dh

    wa1dh FEOA Member

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    PVF Coated Steel Brake Line Tubing 3/16" O.D. x 25 foot

    Is that stuff solid or flexible? It looks like what I saw on Autozone's site. If it's flexible why do you need a tool to bend it?
  6. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    So you don't kink it or hurt your hands trying to bend it.
  7. jwoodin84

    jwoodin84 New Member

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    Are the brake lines on our cars metric or standard?
  8. RoadWarrior

    RoadWarrior FEOA Member

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    Metric

    I just use a 13mm ring wrench for line bending.
  9. white-lightning

    white-lightning FEOA Member

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    If you go with a copper-nickel alloy line you can bend it by hand, plus it won't rust.
  10. jwoodin84

    jwoodin84 New Member

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    Thanks, what size are the brake lines?
  11. RoadWarrior

    RoadWarrior FEOA Member

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    Rear cylinder to flex is an eighth, dunno what the rest are, I haven't broke them yet.

    I had my van in for some urgent work in the dead of winter just after I got it, and stupidly allowed the "fishing trip" free inspection, where they told me the main brake and fuel lines were "gonna blow any moment" because there was visible rust on them. That was 10 years ago.... still waiting... Then a different place a short while after told me the transmission cooler hoses were done.... still waiting for that one too.

    This is before I wised up and learned to say "Take your stinking paws off my car, you damn dirty ape!" and do everything possible myself... due to shops in this area generally managing to f**k up more than they fixed, fix stuff that has years left in it, and charge you a fortune for the privilege.
  12. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I would not use flexible brake lines as a substitute for rigid brake lines. Also, I do think the tools you would need to bend it are either cheap enough or available as loaner tools.
  13. HyBrad

    HyBrad New Member

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    I bend 3/16" and 1/4" steel brake lines by hand all of the time. It's not difficult.

    The trick is bending it without kinking it. It's actually very easy to kink. This is where the bending tools/bending pliers come in handy. There are many different kinds of small tubing benders, none of which are more than $10-$15 or so...
  14. Skuce

    Skuce FEOA Member

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    Use "Cunifer" line as opposed to Steel line and it will never rust out...ever
    rbailin and zzyzzx like this.
  15. ChuckMI

    ChuckMI FEOA Donator

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    <<It appears to be a 25' coil of flexible brake line>>
    In reply to the original question, it is 3/16" steel tubing. It is somewhat flexible but you still need to bend it to install it on the car. If you do a sharp bend by hand it will probably kink so you need a tubing bender or bending plier.
  16. blucroozer2

    blucroozer2 FEOA Member

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    One of my lines went the other day and the pedal went to the floor. I never looked at the lines close before and I see there is a sort of junction block in the rear. Is this part available and if not, what needs to be done to replace it? Its an 02 ZX2 and I'm talking about where the two lines hook up and then go to each rear wheel. I'd like to do this myself if possible. Its very rusty and I think that part is too far gone. Any info will be appreciated.
  17. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    When I replaced the lines to the rear on my 92LX, I didnt re-use that junction block that is mounted at the rear. I just used longer sections of the pre-made standard tubing lengths instead. The standard lengths now seem to be available in both the older Bundy style tubing (which used to be what the USA required all brake lines to be on production cars) and the more recent 90% nickel and 10% copper lines - with names like Cupronic, Cunifer, etc.
    I replaced both sets of lines, from about under the driver's footwell back. They werent at all rusty in front of that.
    rbailin likes this.
  18. blucroozer2

    blucroozer2 FEOA Member

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    Thanks for the reply. That sounds good to me. Would make it a lot easier I reckon. Its so weird how there is a section further up forward that looks brand new and shiny with the tag still on and then a little further up its solid rust again. lol.
  19. Shane Parks

    Shane Parks FEOA Member

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  20. Shane Parks

    Shane Parks FEOA Member

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    i just bought a beautiful 3rd gen zx2 2002 its in awesome condition in side and out motor look new only has 68,000 miles, the back it was owned by an old lady and it sat a while and the brakes are gone not sure where the leak is but was told maybe a hose broke and they said the junction block was rusted out. I didn't see the junction box thing but all the lines in back look like they would break if u thumped them, so I want to replace all the lines so how do i by pass this junction block thing? and can anyone have a video or a diagram cart of how to run ur own lines? because I dont know what a shop would charge. thanks, Shane
    denisond3 likes this.

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