Brake line replacement.

This has happened to me on my 92LX, and I spent several hours over a couple of days replacing just the badly rusted lines - going to the back of the car. Then I inspected another Escort, my 95LX sedan, and had to do the same lines; the ones going to the back of the car. Again, not much expense, but still a slow process. Im sure I saved a huge amount of money.
The little fitting in the middle of the rear subframe is just a distribution block, and was where the lines to the wheels were connected to the lines coming from the front. With one of my 'fixes', I couldnt get the flare nuts off, so just eliminated that fitting, and ran the lines the extra distance to where they connect to the brake hoses. I also replaced the rear brake hoses and the little "S" curved brake lines connecting to the wheel cylinders.
Using the various brand names of 'cupronic' lines is fine, and slightly easier to bend than the older "Bundy" tubing, which for decades was the required brake line material. I got standard brake line lengths when I did my 92LX, and just joined the different standard lengths to get the lengths I needed. When I did the 95LX (whose layout was identical to the 92) I used a 25 ft roll of the copper-nickel alloy, and made my own flares, after putting on the M10-1.0 flare nuts. (Its not a copper zinc alloy as far as I know).
I had to go to several auto parts places, since no one of them had half a dozen flare nuts; each had one or two, but I needed a total of four, and wanted extras. The same was true of the coupling pieces; unions maybe they are called. Also you have to be careful to get the metric fittings, since the SAE threaded fittings are also standard on older American vehicles; and being almost the same size, are easy to mix up visually. The metric and SAE fittings must never ever be mixed!
The bake lines were all 3/16" on my Escorts. I did brake lines on a Chevy S-10 pickup, and had to get different sized fittings, as GM didnt adopt a standard size brake line or flare nuts for the whole vehicle!
I think the flare is called a standard flare, and you make it in a sort of two-step process. I just followed the instructions that came with the flaring set.
I only replaced from the middle of the undercarriage to the rear, as the front part of the lines had no rusty feeling. While they werent shiny, they felt smooth as I slid my fingers along. I routed them the same way they had been on the OEM installation, and supported them using mainly the OEM supports. Getting these apart was a slow chore also.
The worst rust was where the lines ran beside the fuel tank, up out of sight unless I was looking straight up from below. Its was the same rusty area on both cars.
I also replaced the master cylinder and its reservoir. If your car is a 5-speed, it might be worthwhile to replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I did that. Its easier to get the clutch master cylinder out if you take out the drivers seat, put down a wide plank, and can lie down with a straight back, to get to the nut that is above the clutch master cylinder on the inside. With an automatic transmission its not a problem of course.

Just copper lines are not legal for use as brake lines, since with vibration the copper work hards, and will eventually crack.

Good Luck. This work is just tiresome, but very money saving.

removed double post.

I jacked up the back of the car, supporting things at the front end of the rear trailing arms. I had the driver's side wheel off, then had to take the passenger side wheel off, to get at the brake fittings on that side of the car. I use pyramids of heavy lumber, such as about 6" x 6" or 8" 8". I wanted things to be fall-proof.
My Escorts are about my favorite cars too. Its why I own five of them, alll 2nd gen LX ones.