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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to say I got my BPT and a bunch of other parts with a Protege I bought
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13300
I didn't have time to swap it in yet. I'm actually trying to get rid of one of my Tracer LTSs so I can get a Tracer Wagon. Then, I'm thinking to swap in the BP from the other LTS into the wagon, using the stock GTX turbo/mani. I'd like to get a fabbed mani for a bigger turbo to throw on the BPT motor and then drop into the LTS.
Soooo,
I'll have one hellava sleeper Tracer and a slick Tracer wagon LTS-W.
Bill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SgtRauksauff said:
Sounds fun, man.. how're those doors working out for you?

--sarge
Hey Sarge, check your pm's.

What really sucks is I lost me job two days after I got the BPT.
:( :evil: :twisted:

Bill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For my first mod/purchase I was looking for a nice new sexy IC off ebay, but it looks like all the good ones are $300+.
With my jobless situation and a lot of recommendations here and other car/turbo sites, I bid on and won a Starion IC for $96 shipped. I was told they normally go for about $125 and the last several ones I saw in JYs were stripped out already.
So, anyone have more input or experience with this?
Thanks, Bill.
 

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welcome to my club!!!!!! JY parts lol well yah the starion FMIC usually go up to 200.. but for some reason you got lucky, or some people aint going cheap anymore and you got yours for 96.. i got mine for 96.. and bleieve it or not my friend got his for 20....and he just wants one for show..geez.. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have seen a few on EB lately going for <125, which is what I put limit at based on what folks have said they average.
Heck, I'd prolly get another if about half the money.
Also, I LOVE the Starion/Conquest oil coolers. Long before I ever thought about 4cyl cars, I pulled those little coolers out of JYs for use in my buddies and my muscle cars. I have two in the front of my 79 Z28 for oil and tranny with Russell AN fittings and SS braided line. They could keep up with the 350/5.7L automatic when I road coursed it back in the day.
I'm thinking the same for the Tracers, one for steering oil, one for "to" turbo and at least one more for "after" turbo and possibly another off a "T" (from 'to" turbo line) stand alone oil cooler.
Heat kills, and maybe this is overkill, but if I can find them cheap for about $10 ea and it costs about $40 per cooler to get the fittings and hoses, I can have killer koolers for less than the cost of a quality cooler alone.
Bill.
 

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Don't get too over zelous with oil cooling. It needs to be a certian temp to keep everything lubed properly and not to turn into sludge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What temp would that be?
I understand that you should not attempt to spool up the turbo before the eng temp is normal.
In my line of work we try to avoid soft descriptives, we try to use firm numbers or universally accepted descriptives. Things like "normal, good, OK, a little, a lot" are very subjective. I too have done this and is hard to get away from.
Sorry for the little rant.
Bill.
 

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I'll have to see if I can find it again. I want to say it's like just above the boiling point of water. Like 220*F or something. Anyways, don't take that as fact since I need to look it up again.

Edit: The ideal temp range of engine oil is 180*-200*F according to Perma-Cool which makes oil coolers. Anything higher and the oil will break down sooner and lose it's ability to cool the crankshaft and lube bearings supposedly.

However, you'll find plenty of other sites say you want any condensed water in the crankcase to vaporize so the ideal is 220-260*F

The one thing they do agree on is that anything lower then 170*F is very bad for lubrication.

So, I guess you'll have to pick which one to believe. :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info.
The link is at:
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page02.html
and refers to auto tranny and motor oils.

I guess I could always spend the extra money and put an inline solenoid on the oil "to" cooler hose and hook that up to a relay with temp sensor input.

Bill.
 

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I wouldn't put a cooler after the turbo.. it needs to be able to free-flow back to the sump without any backpressure, or you'll do more damage to your turbo seals than good. I'd say the best thing would be a remote-filter/cooler setup with a temp solenoid that will open at a certain temp, if you needed that extra complexity... plus with the remote filter setup, you can add a bigger filter, so you can increase your overall oil volume even more, which will lower the percentage of particulate matter and make your oil stay cleaner longer, plus soak up more heat.

of course, if you really wanted to get crazy, you could put on a dry-sump setup.....not usually a great idea for street cars though.

--sarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SgtRauksauff said:
I wouldn't put a cooler after the turbo.. it needs to be able to free-flow back to the sump without any backpressure, or you'll do more damage to your turbo seals than good. I'd say the best thing would be a remote-filter/cooler setup with a temp solenoid that will open at a certain temp, if you needed that extra complexity... plus with the remote filter setup, you can add a bigger filter, so you can increase your overall oil volume even more, which will lower the percentage of particulate matter and make your oil stay cleaner longer, plus soak up more heat.

of course, if you really wanted to get crazy, you could put on a dry-sump setup.....not usually a great idea for street cars though.

--sarge
I've thought twice about the after turbo cooler, so that's nixed.
I will T or Y off the tubo oil input line at the block and think about the solenoid w/ temp sensor.
Do you know what temp the Tstat housing sensor is set at? And, if it will funk with the output tapping into that for my trigger source, keeping in mind I'll be using a Haltech.
Also, is it a different sensor for the rad fan?

I apologize, I'm away from home and that's where my manuals are.

Thanks, Bill.
 

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there's 2 sensors in the thermostat housing, one for the guage, and one for the fan relay. I don't know what temp it's set to go off at, though.

--sarge
 

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The fan switch supposedly turns on the low speed fan at 210* and high speed at 220* At least that's what it is on the LX.
 
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