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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
only for 3-4 seconds at a time... doesn't matter if i give it gas or not. :eek:wned:

I tried playing around with the VAF gear, and actually by feeding it a little gas in the beginning and letting it go, it idled on its own for like 30 seconds(while i celebrated) until I gave it gas again and it died. I couldn't repeat this.... only happened once out of about 3 dozen trials with different gear settings on the VAF. I even tried putting the VAF back to where I got it to idle and couldn't do it again.

Looking at this diagram, I don't have my vacuum lines exactly right. Some I just plugged off. I'll explain in detail.



If I don't mention it, I have it.

We'll start with the lines coming off the wastegate. I have the boost sensor line.... but I don't have the one that comes off the top of the 'T' and goes to the 'Wastegate solenoid valve.' The reason I don't have it is because I don't have a nipple for the return line in the inlet pipe. Is this line required for it to run?

Also, the line in this picture:



I have it connected to the inlet pipe.. after the VAF.. where the stock BOV used to be. Charles mentions that he has it there and it works okay so I don't think this *should* be a problem

Lastly, in regards to the purge control solenoid valve, I had to splice the connector off my old harness to the GTX harness. I think the purge controllers are different... the BP has a male connector while the stock GTX I think is probably female. I checked and there wasn't a plug anywhere near it... the one that was was male and the connector on the purcge conrol was male with the GTX harness..... I also dont have that 'check valve' near the intake manifold. Whatever that is.

Would any of these potentially keep my car from running for more than a few seconds at a time?

It sounds great when it is running... I can rev and it revvs beautifully.... I just can't keep it running.

Anyone have a clue as to what might be wrong here? computer?(how would I know?)

thanks
 

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even if the bov wasnt closed all the way it should at least idle liks shit.

little off topic but there is a 4x4' poster in my autotech class of the GTX and GTR, i remember looking at it and thinking"wow ive seen that motor before"before i realized what it was.
 

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I'm guessing you either have a problem with the way the VAF meter is mounted (flap door isn't working right because of direction) try getting it mounted in a flat direction. Possible vacume leak between VAF and turbo. Last would be the ignition system isn't fireing right for possible reason's like timming belt is on wrong, not enough fire from coil etc... I would start with the VAF. If you can get it to run long enough get a timming light on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea the BOV is closed at idle...

as far as the VAF goes... I actually have it mounted upside down due to its location... its the only way I could get the connector to reach.

it's also facing up a bit as well.

so that may have something to do with it eh? I'll have to see if I can mount it differently.

You don't think my vacuum lines the way I have them (or don't) has anything to do with it?

thanks guys
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldnt your BOV vent back into the tube infront of the turbo since you're running a draw through on the VAF?

It looks like you're blowing off to the atmosphere, which could possibly be your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Josh_LX said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldnt your BOV vent back into the tube infront of the turbo since you're running a draw through on the VAF?

It looks like you're blowing off to the atmosphere, which could possibly be your problem?
I have a DSM BOV mounted on the charge pipe... so yes im venting to atmosphere. I got rid of the recirculation valve and connected that bung to the one coming from under the intake manifold as in the picture.

My pipes minus the turbo inlet pipe are custom.
 

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Josh_LX said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldnt your BOV vent back into the tube infront of the turbo since you're running a draw through on the VAF?

It looks like you're blowing off to the atmosphere, which could possibly be your problem?
Looks like a GReddy typeS BOV, you can run them with out venting them back into the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lol, that pic is actually of Pat's(ne3ek) car.... not mine

I'm gonna try getting my VAF mounted differently... hopefully she'll be running this weekend.

I want mah damn car back!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OMFG HELP ME

update: I put the VAF as flat as I could, and still stalls.

I noticed the BOV is slightly open at idle... however idle is between 1500-2000 RPMs... also the boost gauge shows 10-15psi of vacuum at idle... not sure if this is normal.

Honestly, it starts immediately every time... and idles nice and smooth for 6-7 seconds (I counted) and it dies. Its as if something is cutting the fuel off... if I hit the throttle too hard it chokes and dies.

I know for a fact I have my vacuum lines correct now... I got a bung welded for that one in ne3ek's picture.

I can only imagine that it has something to do with fuel. I have the stock BP fuel rail and pressure regulator on there... with the stock fuel pump. GTX harness and ECU. I have an RX-7 VAF and a stock GT VAF and tried them both.

I'm pretty sure the coil is fine as it runs wayyy to smoothly when it is running... and starts like a champ.

Please help me, I'm lost, I need my car back, and I don't know what to do. What could possibly be cutting off my fuel?

I'm so frustrated :(
 

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The BOV can't be open at idle or it will suck in unmetered air. That's at least part of your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hmm, wonder why I have all this vacuum at idle... thats why its open I would imagine.

another question... I was told that the GTX fuel rail won't work with the stock fuel lines... and yet charles on clubprotege said the BP fuel rail isn't compatible with the mazda wiring... whats the deal?
 

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Try this, plug up the BOV to elimiate that vacume leak and see what happens. The fuel rail and regulator is not the problem, don't worry about that. It it still acts the same with the BOV pluged up then I think Jordy had a similar problem when he wired up his GTX ECU. I can't remember which wire/s it was though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm pretty sure my fuel lines are correct. I'll have to double check.

I removed the vac line from the BOV(it stayed closed) and the same thing happened.

Jordy had the same problem? and it was in the wiring? holy shit does anyone know what his problem was? or what his AIM is?

I only have access to this hometown library computer for a few more hours.... if anyone knows please chime in
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I found out that ONLY the start stage of the fuel pump was kicking on. The run stage wasn't kickin in and taking over after the car started.

so I rigged a switch directly to the battery for the run stage power wire on the fuel pump... then started my car, flipped the switch to turn on the run stage of the fuel pump, and it just floods the shit out of my engine.

Does this sound similar to Jordy's problem Denis? he hasn't been online. :(
 

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I realy don't remember. Went strait stand alone EMS so I wouldn't know what to do without looking at the car. I could do some guessing all day but it mightnot help.
 
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