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bp gtr engine

2580 Views 34 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  James92Scort
im planning on putting a gtr engine in my car. does any one know how much horsepower and torque this engine puts out? this website saids it produces 235hp http://www.adelaidejap.com.au/mazda.htm but ive always heard that it made 210hp can anyone clarify this?
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actually you want 250HP you can do it with 14psi on turbo-blue gas on your normal GT motor.

But with the GTR, all you´d have to do is make sure you are running the GTX/R ECU. So you´re timing and Fuel is run by that, then use $2 in a valve you can make at Home Depot and put it inline from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator housing. Screw the screw down. Its the cheapest way to make a boost controller. Or you could spend 800 bucks on a A´PEXi AVC-R. That would work too.
Almost forgot James, here´s general info:

Bosch Platinum +4´s are a "hotter" type of plug. With a boosted motor (Super, Turbo, N20) you want to actually think about finding colder plugs. Colder plugs resist from forming "hot spots." Hot spots are the cause of pre-ignition and detonation (Knock). The platinums work great in N/A motors, but in a boosted app you want to think about other stuff.

ZEX, VENOM, NGK all make great plugs for heavily modified applications. I think Denis runs with the Zex ones.
no prob about the reminder James, it was knowledge for everyone else. I ran the +4´s in my car before I got the turbo. Now I´m running autolite platinums that are colder, but they are fouled already. I´m trying to find plugs that will work well with my MSD box.
I say just build your GT motor. If you really want to swap get the GTX. You´ll get one faster and just look at Denis, Orlando and Adam. They´ve proved you can be a God in your car with only a GTX motor.
building the GT motor is like building any other motor. But what you want to build it for is a WHOLE lot of thought. Do remember that your GT motor has forged internals, so you´re all set up for some boost.

Putting together a turbo kit for the scort is a long and frustrating experience. I have no patience and rushed the project, but I´m crusing with a turbo no...not really any boost, but I have the turbo. I say start by making the decisions like if youre going to get a GTX ecu, or a Haltech or just piggyback all the systems. If you chose to piggyback start with ignition, then fuel...full system, injectors, pump, computer. Then get your airbox all set up and start getting all your hoses and clamps, then do the turbo install last. It will save you a headache or two...or like the extra 2-300 bucks I´ve spent and wasted on rushing everything
Hey James, thanx for copying that over too. You´re right I would of retyped it. I guess it doesn´t frustrate me at all to retype that stuff because I like sharing the knowledge I´ve learned. Lately seems like the only thing in life I know.
Well the GTX ecu would be wired for all the same sensors, plus it would beable to detect boost either mechanically or electronically so it could control your need for fuel enrichment and timing retard.

I dont know to be honest, never had it on a dynowheel yet. I dont want to be like the stereotypical "import tuner" and say my exhaust gave me 20HP and that intake air fuel mod gave me another 20HP. But in theory; The stock motor is 127HP 114 ft-lbs.
I have:
*totally custom 2.25" to the rear axle then 2.5" duel exhaust from the axle back.
*C.A.I. w/ K&N conical filter
*IHI VJ20 Turbo
*88´ Chrysler Conquest TSi Intercooler
*2" IC piping
*TurboXs Type H-RFL BOV

The Fuel system is in progress. I´m running an A´PEXi S-AFC, but I dont yet have the 460cc/min injectors installed.

The Ignition system is:
*MSD 6AL Boost Timing Master
*MSD Blaster2 Coil
*NGK plugs
*MSD 8mm wires

With no boost on the turbo I´m guessing I could probably hit 140HP at the flywheel, so maybe like 120HP to the wheels...maybe, give 1 or 2HP, take up to 5HP or so.

Now, in theory 1psi boost gives you 8-15HP. So right now I´m pushing 2psi so that´s like 15HP (flywheel again). But the plan is to run 8psi on the streets (need to stay out of trouble). And run 14psi on the track with higher octane fuel. 14psi ideally with the numbers on our motors would be like 266HP, so like 245-250HP to the ground.
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Yeah I´m not putting my life on my pencil pushing, but I am putting my EGT on it, and she´s my baby.

Yeah, James´ explanation is pretty close.
Turbo uses energy from exhaust gas to spin. As it spins it compresses air. More air in the motor, more air out of the motor creates a higher Volumetric Efficiency and gives you more power. (Honestly think of it as Artificial Cubic Inches
) The Wastegate itself you can be set up different ways, most common is when you hit a preset boost level it opens. When it opens it lets exhaust bypass the turbine. So basically you´re controlling the speed of the turbine which controls the speed of the compressor, hence holding boost levels constant.

For myself right now, my problem is tuning. When I boost my motor with 4 or 5psi the car falls on its face. All indications show I´m running lean and simply running out of fuel, but with the new fuel computer in, the same problem is happening. I live in a little town and all the people I know that claim to know everything about forced induction, can´t seem to help me. So I spend everyday looking for answers. The only reason why I know so much is because I´ve had to learn so much to still not understand all the problems I´m having. But I assure you, I´m the only person I know that can screw up just about anything. And I have TERRIBLE luck. I´ve never been good at anything in life either....so if you´re planning on turbo´ing your EGT, you´ll more then likely have better luck with not knowing nearly as much.

Boost Controllers: Well here´s how it works (most of the time). Most of the time its a simple one-way valve that cuts the amount of airflow from the pressure side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator. Wastegate actuators are usually diaphrams with a spring. When the right amount of pressure is asserted it moves a rod, that rod opens the wastegate. The simple one way vavles you can make with Home Depot parts and will allow you to raise your boost level over the base setting of the wastegate actuator. Some get really advanced like the A´PEXi AVC-R (Actuator Valve Controller, Type-R). Its electronic and uses a pop-valve to open the pressure at just the right time to maximize your boost level and ability to hold boost on a non ballbearing turbo. It can do other things like look at your pulse width of your injectors, so if one locks up it stop boosting your motor. And it has a scramble mode that will just give your motor as much boost as your turbo can produce. HKS makes the Profec-B, another highly recommended boost controller. Same idea as the A´PEXi, just easier to use but the display isn´t as cool.

In all honesty its not hard to turbo a car and not know a thing about boost. To understand it really is facinating I recommend you read into it. You can learn everything from the physics and chemistry of combustion, to having a better understanding of your environment and why there is no "perfect" answer to everything.
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Sorry almost forgot, Intercooler.
First off glad to hear your considering an intercooler. It really is "optional" but honestly it can save you alot of time, effort, and thicken the safety level a little. And they just look so darn cool

Well under the hood isn´t where you want it. You want it where you can get the most air, like just behind the bumper but infront of the AC Condensor and Radiator. I´m running an 88´ Chrysler Conquest TSi intercooler (same as Mitsubishi Starion). It fits beautifully behind the bumper and I didn´t have to cut anything to make it fit. Sorry I was only allowed 4 pictures in the showcase so I dont have one of the intercooler, just the turbo and AFC.

But I have a pic on my webpage:

go to my homepage, then just click on the "Brain" or on the button for my Escort. Then click on where it says the intercooler I have
hope that helps seeing it there with no bumper. That´s also a pic of my friend Rob who´s helped me alot on the install of the turbo.
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