Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.8L DOHC' started by 95GTOwner, Aug 29, 2015.
This always works better than cordless tools:
I've yet to see a corded impact capable of what my IR can do.
Technically speaking, air tools are corded also.
You SHOWED an electric plug. So...semantics. Lmao.
But my IR electric is only just bested by the absolute latest air from IR and Aircat.
I have yet to see a cordless tool that can do as good as a corded tool.
We gotta start being specific here. Because there are a lot of corded products that suck and a lot of cordless that suck. There are a lot of corded products that are great and a lot of cordless that are great. And are you including AIR in that "corded" grouping?
I personally own the Nitrocat 1250K. It puts out 1295 ft-lb. That's air.
I also own the IR W7150K. It puts out 1100 ft-lb. That's battery.
While I've mostly only used either on my cars, they aren't challenged by anything on them. I had a shop tech try the IR on a tractor trailer lug nut today and it broke it about as quickly as an equally rated air would have. Meaning it took some beating but it was broken in about 15 seconds.
Now, we're talking the best of the best. When you buy the best, it can hang with the air guns. If you can break a tractor trailer lug, you're doing good.
The only way you could call yourself correct is if you took this to the most absurd extreme and suggested air would be slightly faster. Yes, it MIGHT be faster. Maybe. By fractions of a second? But this is 1" air gun territory so we should acknowledge that closeness like this is as good as equal. There are variables that can push the outcome one way or another.
I hate to get back on topic, but....
Previously suggested piston stop part number does NOT work. Apparently 1.9L pistons are pretty damn far down the hole from the plug threads (over 2" front what I can tell) and the threaded rod in the piston stop bent (due to a really long unsupported length of the actual stop) and allowed the motor to rotate at 43ft-lbs (was using my Kent Moore torque/angle meter and was watching the live display when it bent). I still believe a piston stop is best here, but not that one. Returned to Amazon. I think I'm just gonna get a stick of M14 x what-ever-the-comp-cams-tool-is-threaded-for all thread rod for the next time I do the timing belt and try that.
...in pneumatic, I'm a believer.
My brand-the-freak-new IR2245TI (various reasons for purchasing that gun, and your mileage may vary, and maybe an AirCat/SnapOn/Bob's Tool Store is better, and etc, etc, etc... not the debate here), on it's lowest power setting, took the bolt off of the balance faster than I could get off the trigger (my DeWalt corded impact wouldn't budge it on the 93). Same thing with the lug nuts that I just torqued with a wrench to 90ft-lbs the week before. I swear the hammers hit twice before each nut was just flat out off of the car. I've used about a dozen impacts in my time, including cordless/corded/air from all the expensive names, and nothing runs like my IR did.
All of that said... To put the bolt back in the crank after the piston stop bent under a torque wrench (I already put loctite blue on the bolt), I turned the gun up to max and let it hammer about 4 impacts... which seems like very little, but it's not...
...how do I know?
I put the lugs on the wheel the same way and the loosest one came up to 86ft-lbs on my torque/angle meter's live display.
For those who may also be interested in harnessing the power of Thor's hammer, but are money tight (the gun ain't free and there's no way around that.. I paid $260 and am happy-happy-happy with the cost for what it does), it's worth noting that I was running it off of a $150 Harbor Freight 21 gallon 2.whatever CFM compressor. I DID remove the HF regulator from it because it just didn't flow diddly squat (the gun could run it down t0 15psi indicated at the regulator with more than 90psi in the tank... that don't work) so the gun was getting between 120psi and 80psi (the cycle switch settings on the compressor.. the gun is supposed to operate at 90psi, hence why I had it turned down), but the compressor never even turned on until I was putting the last lug back on. The real test will be next week when I have to take the front axle nuts off of a 18 year old Jeep, and those are torqued at like 290ft-lbs before rust.
Soooo... The long and short of things for the op is to buy a $20 stick of thread rod... Or buy $400 of junk air compressor and very competent impact gun and likely never have a problem again. Add another $30 for a MAP torch and virtually guaranty success every time.
That 2245 sounds about like my Aircat. Or Nitrocat. I forget which one it is now. Lol. It'll bust stuff off before you even realize you started. It's sexy. Lol
Same compressor here. Mine's probably older. Gave $95 for it to a local guy who claims he never used it for more than kids balls and tires.
The Aircat/Nitrocat "top of the line" is the main competitor of my IR. Honestly, I don't think you can go wrong with either gun. They're both monsters.
And that is my exact compressor (#47065). Bought it in 2006. FYI, this is the pressure switch you will some day need for it (I'm guessing sooner rather than later):
It took me freaking forever to find one that was an exact replacement without spending a day driving all over town. Quality on them is hit and miss though (China's finest).
Yeah I have a new pressure switch waiting to be installed. I already took the original apart once to fix it. lol.
I stupidly overpaid for mine before finding that one on Amazon. Oh well.
lol... I had to fix my original one as soon as I opened that box the compressor came in. The suicidal Chinese toddler that assembled it cross threaded one of the nut/bolts that hold the diaphragm case together and it had a massive leak. In fact, I had to reseal all of the air fittings on it as soon as I got it... You get what you pay for.
Don't feel bad about missing out on the Amazon part... Like most people that bought one my first one was defective out of the box. Got my money back and made it work though, so win!
That's what my problem was...diaphragm leak. The previous owner had already beaten me to the fittings. lol.
I look at it as the compressor being cheap enough that even with the overpriced regulator and repairs (had to get a new drain petcock for the bottom too) it's still a deal. I mean if you priced out a new IR or similar compressor you'd know all too well how expensive they are, which I'm sure you did. hah
For the price and capacity I've been pretty satisfied with it, but I do wish I could afford a truly big one. Like an 80 gal with a higher CFM.
You and me both... I can't bitch about it. It's served me well for 9 years with some hiccups aside.
The Quincy I want is $4k. What I'm probably going to do is buy another HF cheapie and run 2 of them if I need to do some sand blasting or run a die grinder for more than 5 minutes at a time. We do what we must...
Also, speaking if the drain cock, I recently upgraded* mine with a low profile 90 degree adapter, a 4' hose whip, ball valve, and another 4' hose whip. Now I can stand up right and drain the tank into a vessel sitting on the floor any time I want. Well worth the $12 (and, of course, that $12 can screw right on to any other compressor I may ever own).
*this was after I bought the HF "automatic" kit that doesn't work.
Nice. I just bought a simple one from Tractor Supply. I needed to use it that same day. I broke the original one with vice grips because it was the only way I could bite on it enough to remove it. I don't think it had ever been used before, or it just sat too long.
I went down the exact same path you did, but patched it together "enough" to get the job done, then went back and repaired/added my upgrades as I sourced cheap materials from dem interwebs.
It's so hilarious that we're air compressor buddies. EXACT same compressor, EXACT same problems.
The only effect I've noticed of running my air tools at ~140% of recommended capacity (150PSI), has been that it blows out the lube. There could be some extra wear on the tool but I can't tell since they're rarely used. An inline oiler would compensate for the aforementioned observation.
Haha it's brilliant.
What got me started on this whole air kick in the first place was a cheap air ratchet deal at Tractor Supply. It was $15 and I couldn't pass it up since I had the Escort motor to reinstall. But then I was like oh shit now I need a compressor. Lol.
Got one, loved it, then got the Nitrocat 1250K (I checked) because I felt silly having a compressor and only a ratchet to use with it.
Runtime is kinda sad with such a big gun BUT it's so quick and powerful it doesn't usually pose a problem.
You can always buy a tee-fitting and add-on a portable tank. That's what I did with my compressor. I have six gallon portable that I use to blow out PCs, fill up tires on other vehicles. The add-on tank works best when attached on the unregulated side of the circuit.
I've thought about that. A propane tank should work.
At this point it's more of a penis issue than anything. *Grunt. Scratch balls.*
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