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Okay everybody, I don´t want to start any fist fights or anything, but I´ve got a quick question for all of you.

Okay, as far as all around performance goes (i.e. - gas mileage, horsepower, torque, etc...), what would be the best upgrade (around $1000, or less) for my car?

Feel free to post, even if what you say has already been posted.
 

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Ok this is what i did to my 93 LX 5 speed and I got 39 MPG HWY and 30 city on 16 inch rims. 2 1/4 cat back exhaust with magnaflow muffler $242, Weapons-R cold ram air dragon intake. $300 new. Iridom(sorry for the spelling) spark plugs $65 set of 4. bosch plug wires $30.00 and accel coil pack $70.00 for a total of $707 so you still have around $300 to play with.
 

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Okay, this is a personal opionion, but for $1000 (less then actually).

Even better then my turbo upgrade.

BRAKES!!
DBA slotted crossdrilled rotors, EBC GreenStuff Pads, and steel braided brakelines.

I rate it better then the turbo because its saved my arse so many times, and its safety. Safety is always a good upgrade. It was easy and took me about an hour to do the hole thing and unlike the turbo I didn´t have any probs. Although I dont have the steel braided brakelines yet, and they will take longer to install. But still....my opinion on best upgrade.
 

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Everyone has an opinion on this one, and it is hard to go wrong with any of them, but here are my thoughts.

Everytime I make a change, I get all giddy and swear that that last modification is the best yet, and that I should have done it sooner. Truth is, your memory is only about as long as the latest mod. Be that as it may, in the beginning of every virgin car project, I look toward making the most noticeable difference for the least buckage. As you will eventually continue to modify it, it´s really not quite so critical where you start, since, we all know, you will eventually get to just about everything, given time to earn the money.

For my lettuce, handling and exhaust are the first moves, since regardless of whether you are racing, or not, these changes will always be noticed by the driver. Sway bars make the biggest change for the least dollars, in my opinion, especially for an LX. Not only will you notice improved handling, but bars will not negatively effect the ride, or cause clearance problems. As for the exhaust, nothing gets my blood going more than a sweet exhaust note. Regarldless of whether it actually gives you improved performance, or not, the perception of improved performance is almost as important. Both of these mods can be done for minimum dollars, will not need to be tossed when other mods are made, and do not compromise the reliability, or comfort of the car.

On the subject of modifications in general, any time you consider a mod, do your research. Learn how and why the parts make a difference, buy the best products you can afford, and, whenever possible, do the install yourself, and you will enjoy the experience and the effects far more. Don´t be like so many Honda girlie men (sorry, ladies) who know not why anything works, they just have to buy it because someone said it was cool, and then pay someone to install it. The goal, in my mind, is to not only enjoy the finished product, but to enjoy and understand the process, as well. Over time, you will, then, become a mechanic with actual knowledge, not some trash-talkin´ punk, who has little actual experience, and only regurgitates what someone else told him.

Happy modifying.

Marcus
 

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Yeah, my post might of come before, but I was thinking along the same lines.

I like the brakes, and that was done even before the turbo. It was also a project that helped me to learn how the calipers, pads, lines and everything worked together. I learned how everything came apart as with things like the wheel bearings and such too. And it was a good project for purchasing a couple extra tools that come in handy for future work.
 

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It is funny that you should mention brakes and special tools in the same breath, Jason. Several years ago, I suffered from my own stupidity. When changing brake pads, I cleaned all the bolts, sliders and such (as I thought any good mechanic would, having never dealt with a sliding caliper design), with never a thought as to lubrication. Well, as some of you have discovered, that causes several problems, over time. As luck would have it, I was at a sailing regatta in Ft. Worth and had parked, overnight, on a slope at the hotel and set the E-brake. When I took off, I noticed that it felt like I had a flat tire, or something, slowing the car. Well, didn´t see anything and thought it was my imagination. Several minutes later, I smelled the telltale aroma of burning cookies and made the realization that I had a locked caliper. When I got out, the rotor and pad were smoking, literally. Well, I serviced that enough to get me home, and thought that I had escaped unscathed. Such was not the case, unfortunately. About a year later, that same rear caliper was leaking and I discovered that the heat had toasted the caliper seals and they began leaking.

If you read the books, they will tell you that the rear caliper is not rebuildable. To tell you that this is wrong, might be an overstatement on my part, but it is possible. Now, we are to the point of this story (as usual, I am a more than a bit verbose). There is no tool in existence (in my area, anyway) that will grab the circlip at the back of the caliper cylinder bore. I tried everything, but wound up making my own tool for the job. A cheap pair of stork needlenose pliers that I ground the tips on just for the task at hand. Needless to say, this was done in the open garage with a torrential downpour splashing at my feet.

Anyway, sometimes, you even have to make your own tools for that "special good time."

Marcus
 
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