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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there a way out there to be able to change the rubber timing belt to a chain belt so that you don´t have to worry about it breaking at all? the new Nissan Sentra SE-Rs have "no maintenance" chains on them.
 

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that would be quite cool... ya would have to modify all the pulleys to sprokets... i just replaced my timing belt (what a bitch that was!)...
 

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No. If an Escort had a chain you would have issues like:Checking chain stretch, sprocket wear, guide wear and chain tensioners craping out. I wish changing the timing belt was a little easier on my 92 LX wagon. Im just going to wait until the belt breaks, water pump fails or cylinder head goes. Belts and chains have their pros and cons. As far as someone claiming a maintanice free product, remember this famous quote:"Leakproof seals....will"
 

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what about making it direct drive. Like on the straight 6? I would love to do that would make some great low end torgue and power but high end would suffer...
 

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let the belt break. It´s a clearance engine. It´s the easiest way.
Say - howabout electric valves!!!! :-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
my belt did break, last spring....March 1st to be exact. that cost me 2000 total for all the work that was done to it because my BP is the only one that isn´t a non-interference engine apparently. I don´t want to go through that again.
 

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James how can it be interference? the BP is clearance!! someone clarify here! Mine broke (well, stripped 12 cogs in a row) and all I had to do was change the belt. I did it in my driveway and it took me a week. :-o
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i dunno how it was interference, unless the "hometown" shop that did the work just basically fucked me over for $1000 they told me it was intereference (this was back before I found this place) and that it bent up two of my valves. so they sent the head off to a shop and had it reground, replaced to of the valves and the belt and reinstalled it. two weeks later the oil rings started, well, not working. so i took it back and they had to completely rebuild it again with new oil and compression rings. stupid shop. I will NEVER take my car to them again. I think they just thought it was an interference engine and just went ahead and did it. :-Y :-Y
 

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you probably got screwed. nothing is for sure...you get a couple things out of spec or installed badly and it could easily happen.
 

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was it a domestic or import worker? Cuz when i got mine retimed a while back i had to take it to an import shop because the domestic works around here wouldnt take it. It cost me about 350 to get it retimed
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
domestic. all american guys. they had to buy new gaskets and valves and belts, it was just a mess and basically they screwed me because they assumed it was an interference engine.
 

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You guys are scaring me! Why on earth would it take you a week to replace the belt? You cut your thumb off, got it surgically replaced and then let it heal before finishing right? I need to change the one on my LX sometime soon, and I really don´t want to hear about it being that hard. I´ve replaced one on a 2.2L legacy and it took me 3 hours.. and most of that was spent double, tripple, quadripple checking my timing marks since the previous belt was incorrectly installed. I realize the belt is right next to the front right fender, but sheesh!

I´ll take the single row timing chain on my 4cyl BMW m10 motor over a rubber belt any day.. mostly because it sounds nice and mechanical, but also because it will last 300K+ trouble free miles and doesn´t retard high rev timing like a rubber belt does. You only need to worry about replacing the timing chain when you´re in the process of rebuilding, so maintenance free is fairly accurate. One good thing about timing belts is the ease of access to adjustable cam sprockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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10-02-2003 at 17:11, Beaverboy wrote:
You guys are scaring me! Why on earth would it take you a week to replace the belt? You cut your thumb off, got it surgically replaced and then let it heal before finishing right?
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]

[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

Ok, I didn´t change my own belt...i took it to the shop and they told me my valves were bent up and conned me into doing more work than it should have had done to it. it took them a week to replace the belt because they sent the heads over to a shop to have them reground.
 

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It took me a week because I did it in little bits after work in my driveway with little in the way of proper mechanic´s tools, and it was my first and only timing belt job. There´s barely enough room for your hand between the end of the motor and the sheetmetal. The wheel has to come off. I could go on...
 

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Beaverboy: It took me about 4-5 hours because I also replaced the water pump while I was in there. Im sure it can be done a lot faster at a Ford shop. I remember bloody knuckles and a lot of bad language that day. I think I used a strap wrench to hold the crank pully, while removing the crank bolt. That was my 86 wagon, now my 92 wagon has 99,000 miles so my day of pain is soon approching.
 

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I had mine done at 70,000 then I did it at 140,000 and it was due 30,000 ago, but I have come to the conclusion that as long as it is tight,the teeth still have a good square shape to them and it´s not missing any, I´m gonna let it roll as long as it wants to.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]
It took me a week because I did it in little bits after work in my driveway with little in the way of proper mechanic´s tools, and it was my first and only timing belt job. There´s barely enough room for your hand between the end of the motor and the sheetmetal. The wheel has to come off. I could go on...
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]

[/TD][/TR][/TABLE] Alright.. thanks for clarifying that ;-) Sounds tough, but I live for coming into work with mangled knuckles and grease under my nails :-D
 
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