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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:-Y I wanted to see if anyone has had this problem... I have a 2000 ZX2 and the idot light for the electrical comes on after 4,000 RPMs. It is not steddy, it flickers faster and faster till it is solid at about 5,700 RPMs. The more accessories I have on the earlier (in the RPMs) it starts. Say I have the heater and the lights on, it will start around 3,500 RPMs. I took it to Sears and Pep boys and the both concluded that the battery is good and the alt. is good also. The alt. was making 93 amps. More then enough power. So if anyone can help that would be great. I have 40,000 mils on her. :-]
 

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Welcome to the board. My first guess would be the belt. It may be slipping at the higher RPMs causing the alternator not to charge, and therefore turning on the Battery light. Plus the more accesories you have on the harder the alternator works and that would cause it to come on at a lower RPM. What you should do is get the car running, turn you high beams on, your A/c the Stereo, and everything else electrical, and have someone rev the engine to the RPM where the light usually comes on while you listen for any squeeling noises, and look at the belt to see if there is any excessive movement. Also put a volt meter on the bater and check to see if the voltage stays abouve 13v through out the RPM range. It should be around 13.5-14.5v while it is idleing, and should go up a little when you rev. If it goes down any your belt is either slipping, or the alt is bad. I know the tester we used at the parts store I worked at onty told us to rev the engine to like 3000 RPM or so, and it your light comes on above that the test is no good. If the car has an automatic tensioner, the spring in it could be bad causing the belt to loosen at higher RPMs as well. Make sure you also check the connectors and cables as well before you do anything just to be safe.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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You really need to hook up a voltmater across your battery terminals and check the voltage your doing all of this stuff.
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Maybe you should read the WHOLE post

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Also put a volt meter on the bater and check to see if the voltage stays abouve 13v through out the RPM range.
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There it is typos and all
 

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Could also be the early signs of the voltage regulator crapping out. Check the belt tension though. Always check the cheaper and easier parts to replace and fix first.

Matt :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is a 5 speed. How do I check the tensoner. Of course it is giving tension, but how do I know it is enough. If I hook up a volt meter to the battery, can I test it at a stop or should i wire it up to the inside so I can drive it around. So there is a load so I don´t blow my motor.
 

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WITH THE ENGINE OFF

Grab the serpentine belt and move it back and forth. There should be no more than 1/2 of deflection either way.

To test the voltage regulator, (I´m gonna sound like a broken record)

With the car at idle and all accesories off, take a base voltage reading from the alternator terminal. It will range from about 13-14v. Rev the engine to a resonable limit. Throughout the rev, the alt. output sould remain more or less the same, but still withing the range.

Next, turn on anything and everything in your vehicle that is electric. Take a reading from the alt. It should compensate for the extra load placed on it, and remain in the 13-14v range. If it the voltage drops the voltage regulator is not compensating for the load. In any condition, there should always be approx 2 volts to ´trickle charge´ your battery.

Hope that helps.

Matt :cool:
 
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