[TheSMJ]

This past month I have found that my A/C isn't getting as cold as it normally has been. Naturally, I thought that it just needed its freeon topped off but it's pressure is fine, and in fact the problem is that the radiator fan never turns on so the A/C condenser overheats and shuts down.

I did some more testing and I found that if I leave the A/C on and drive on the freeway for about 5 miles, the air moving through the radiator keeps the A/C running cool. When stopped at a light, the A/C stops cooling and the engine temp meter on the dash skyrockets into the red - which is remedied by turning the A/C off and turning the heater on full blast until the engine cools back down.

Through it all, the rad fan never turns on. There are three wires going into the fan's motor. My VOM shows two of the wires have 14V on them, while the last is neutral. This leads me to believe the fan motor itself is faulty, and the relay and temp sensor are working fine.

Does that sound about right?

The problem is - I don't know for sure what all three wires do. Obviously one is ground, but are the other two used for different coils in the motor or are they connected to a relay inside the motors housing?

 

[thebeans]

bump.....

I would find an answer very useful as well.

 

[97DragScort]

sounds right - fan motor sounds to be bad.

3 wires - ground, low speed, hi speed

 

[thebeans]

thanks for the quick response.....

So to test the fan I hook the ground to the chassis and the positive battery terminal to one of the other prongs?

 

[97DragScort]

I would probe the harness for continuity first - both sides.

 

[thebeans]

I probed for continuity today....

My fan is continuous. Both speed settings.

The socket that plugs into the fan is not.

I assume this is a symptom of a bad relay? I checked the fuse previously and it is fine.

When researching how to probe for continuity I noticed that the object to be probed is supposed to be disconnected from its power supply. Surely I don't need to disconnect the battery, do I?

 

[untoldstories]

My suggestion is this: Take the plug out form the fan. Using alligator clips ground the lowest or bottom tab to ground or the battery negative. Hook up the other 2 top ones, one at a time directly to your positive post on your battery. They should come on from each pin. If they do not your CCRM is very likely bad. It controls the AC, cooling fan motors, fuel pump, PCM relay and wot relay which shuts down your AC at wide open throttle to give you the power you need without the drag of the AC running.

These relays can fail, at first, intermittently and then due to the connections and shorting out, they can then spread to other relays of the ccrm. A common problem is when you turn your AC on it affects the fuel pump relay and your engine will die after about 10 seconds. It will run when the AC is off. Eventually it affects your fuel pump all the time and your engine will not run. One of the problems that is a factor in the dropped valve seats is the failure of the ccrm and the fans not operating. The engine gets hot and the overheated head predisposes to the dropped seat.

If you need a ccrm I have one for $30 that tests good in my car. It is located under the air filter. I have had your same problem happen on 3 escorts that I worked on in the last 2 months.

My email is [email protected]

 

[97DragScort]

turn on the a/c motor running - take a screw driver handle and whack the $h1t out of the CCRM - if the fan turns on or moves at all, its the CCRM - which is 1 possibility - recheck the a/c fuse, probe it for continuity.. fuses can burn out in any area within the plastic houseing and be difficult to see its bad - take 12v from the battery, put fan harness ground to ground and apply +12v to each leg of the harness, low speed and hi speed... does the fan run? If yes, fan is fine, CCRM relay, fuse, or wireing inbetween.