[Adrian93]

Hey everyone, I posted quite a few months back with a different problem and actually figured it out almost immediately after and forgot to ever come back here. (Ended up being the starter for anyone who cares.)

Anyways, here's what's going on:

I was having two problems yesterday with my 93: first, my fan was not coming on, and second, I was hearing a grinding that appeared to be my alternator. Well, I replaced the alternator which resolved the second issue, and I also tried replacing both my coolant sensor and sender.

Now, I'm presented with more problems: the fan now runs nonstop if the car is on, my check engine light is now on, and some ( but not all) of the times I start the car, the rpms are up in the 3000 range (normally it's been more like 1500 - 2000). I'm not sure if I screwed something up in the process of what I did yesterday or what, but was hoping someone here had some insight in the matter. Oh, one other thing is that the temperature gauge hasn't been working either.

Thanks in advance for the help

 

[antisaint]

Thermostat?... Dirty MAF?....Bad TPS?... Bad ECU?...
All of the above could cause high idle.

Fan controll relay?...
for the constant fan if the above dosent fix it.

For the guage not working, try removing the guage and cleaning the contacts on the rear of it... also check the grounds all over the car. They can often cause guages to malfunction.

 

[Adrian93]

Thanks!

 

[zzyzzx]

I suspect that you have a bad ground on the stupid metal piece where the temperature gauge sensor goes.

 

[dave8338]

I suspect that you have a bad ground on the stupid metal piece where the temperature gauge sensor goes.

Agreed. There was mention of the starter replacement. That would be the first place that I would check.

 

[juggalo]

last time i had a high idle was when i rewired my TPS wrong. it even made my tranny shift bad.

 

[Adrian93]

Sorry I took so long to reply, I had been a bit busy and haven't had a chance to post again until now.

Anyways, thanks for suggesting the ground, I checked it out and it wasn't attached to anything! I can't believe I didn't notice that. I attached a wire that took care of that problem and now my temperature gauge is working.

Still having issues with the constant fan, and the high idle and rough start when the engine is warm, I'll try the suggestions above and see if I can figure it out.

 

[Rainman19154]

edit .jumped in when others have answered.

 

[Intuit]

.......... and I also tried replacing both my coolant sensor and sender. .........

Question: Is it possible to inadvertently switch the wires for those two sensors that were changed out down below the ignition coil ? Also, did you disconnect the car battery before replacing them ? Theoretically, if the fan is capable of running with the ignition off, as the labeling suggests, then one of the sensors could've been live at the time of replacement.

 

[Egnorant]

HUH?

Sorry I took so long to reply, I had been a bit busy and haven't had a chance to post again until now.

Anyways, thanks for suggesting the ground, I checked it out and it wasn't attached to anything! I can't believe I didn't notice that. I attached a wire that took care of that problem and now my temperature gauge is working.

Still having issues with the constant fan, and the high idle and rough start when the engine is warm, I'll try the suggestions above and see if I can figure it out.

The ground for the switches is having the bracket bolted to the bellhousing.
Did you use any sealant on the sending units into the hose/sender/bracket thing? This will kill the ground signal and send a check engine light and the computer will jump to default and cause the fan to run.

For the idle, check around to make sure you didn't dislodge a vacuum line, PCV line or hose to the filter box.

Bruce

 

[Adrian93]

Re: HUH?

Sorry I took so long to reply, I had been a bit busy and haven't had a chance to post again until now.

Anyways, thanks for suggesting the ground, I checked it out and it wasn't attached to anything! I can't believe I didn't notice that. I attached a wire that took care of that problem and now my temperature gauge is working.

Still having issues with the constant fan, and the high idle and rough start when the engine is warm, I'll try the suggestions above and see if I can figure it out.

The ground for the switches is having the bracket bolted to the bellhousing.
Did you use any sealant on the sending units into the hose/sender/bracket thing? This will kill the ground signal and send a check engine light and the computer will jump to default and cause the fan to run.

For the idle, check around to make sure you didn't dislodge a vacuum line, PCV line or hose to the filter box.

Bruce

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yeah, my brother was helping me out when we were replacing the alternator and sensors and he did put teflon on one of the sensors without thinking. He realized the mistake, but maybe it's possible there's still a little on the threads, I'll check that out.

Regarding the filter box, I realized yesterday that my pcv filter was completely ruined. I'm looking around to get a new one, but so far am not having luck. Could that filter be causing the idling problems? I'll also check out the lines and hoses.

 

[Intuit]

You're saying that little sponge is completely ruined ?

Some folks make the mistake of cleaning them with alcohol based solvents such as carb/brake cleaner. Used oil is carcinogenic and rubber gloves should be worn, but the non-destructive way to clean those is to use dish washing liquid.

There may be plenty of these left in the junkyards... but naw, can't imagine that causing any idle issues unless some oil contamination is somehow getting beyond the air filter and attaching to the MAF+ACT sensors.

 

[Adrian93]

You're saying that little sponge is completely ruined ?

Some folks make the mistake of cleaning them with alcohol based solvents such as carb/brake cleaner. Used oil is carcinogenic and rubber gloves should be worn, but the non-destructive way to clean those is to use dish washing liquid.

There may be plenty of these left in the junkyards... but naw, can't imagine that causing any idle issues unless some oil contamination is somehow getting beyond the air filter and attaching to the MAF+ACT sensors.

Yeah, it was so saturated with oil it was more oil than sponge. It came out in small pieces so I'll need to get a new one.

 

[RoadWarrior]

That probably points to other PCV problems too, replace the PCV valve and check none of the hoses are sucking flat.

 

[Adrian93]

That probably points to other PCV problems too, replace the PCV valve and check none of the hoses are sucking flat.

I went ahead and replaced the valve and filter. The hoses appear to be good.

 

[Intuit]

FYI, PCV valve on '94/'95 is just a weight calibrated piston, and are easily cleaned with a stream of brake/carb cleaner. I assume it's the same design on other 1.9L. Simply uses gravity so there's never a need to replace them. Reason they're recommended for replacement on GM/other vehicles is due to the fact that they use a wearable item - calibrated spring.

Blow-by can also cause excessive crankcase pressures but that's another matter that would require a rebuild and so wouldn't worry about it; but just something to be aware of.

 

[RoadWarrior]

Well they probably last a bit longer than the spring ones, but they also have calibrated orifices and valve faces that can corrode oversize or pit and leak. Depending on useage profile, they can get stuff really baked on in there, it'd be like trying to use a quick squirt of brake cleaner to decarb your pistons or valves (Cold I mean, depending on type of cleaner, it could work if you run it into the intake of a warmed up running engine)

Sure you can blast it through every oil change and get a couple or three years out of it, but until they start making gold plated, screw apart ones you can inspect inside, it needs changing somewhat regularly.

 

[Intuit]

Still my original part; approaching 16 years of age. Personally change the oil frequently, though rarely ever cleaned it. (maybe 3, 4 times overall) If it fails the shake test then get rid of it. Otherwise it's likely good. You can simply look at the bottom of it and tell whether the piston sits flat/level. Should move freely/easily. If your engine is running hot enough to melt/distort the plastics or are getting debris in it then you have other problems altogether.

 

[Adrian93]

It only costed two dollars for a replacement, and took about two seconds to replace, so no big deal.

Regarding my other problems, I needed my struts done pretty badly so I let a professional handle them and I asked if he'd check out my idling problem. It turns out it was my computer! He said it was pulling up all kinds of automatic transmission related errors so he replaced it with a proper one and my problems appear resolved.