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lemme know how this worked if you tried it, or if you think it might.... im gunna try it in the next couple days and see what happens...

Ford Escort 2nd gen intake upgrade
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A way to increase airflow as long as the electronics work with everything is to upgrade parts of the intake to newer models. The 1991-1995 1.9L Escorts can gain some additional power just by bolting on a later throttle body and/or air flow meter. The early 90's Escort 1.9L's had a very restrictive air flow meter. It has a center port that measures only 1.500" diameter. Later models (1993-96) have a much larger air flow meter. The way to tell is look at it from the end. If it has a small round port in the center and a screen, it's the early model. The later model has a vertical divider in the center and has no screen.

You will also need to remove all the ductwork from underneath it the air filter box. This is a major restriction. Just unbolt everything under the air box and pull it out. Also use a high flow air filter like a K&N. Here is the combination that will fit:

The air flow sensor is much larger and will flow better even if it has the cross tube. You need the air tube because the air flow meter is larger on that end. You will also need the end of the wiring since it is slightly different. Then just cut & splice the wiring. It will bolt to your air box.

The throttle bodies from 1991-96 are all 40mm. The 1997-up are 44mm. This doesn't sound like much but is about a 24% increase in flow area. The throttle body is an easy bolt-on. If you have an automatic transmission use only the 1997 throttle body from an automatic. It's the only one that has the provisions for the transmission throttle linkage, the lower cable.

* Air tube from a 1994-96 1.9L Escort
* Air flow meter from a 1994-95 (OBDI) (1996 was OBDII compliant)
* Throttle body from a 1997-up (1997 only with auto trans)

If a 3rd gen throttle body is used the throttle position sensor will need to be rewired. If car is a 1996 2nd 1.9L however, then no electrical modifications have to be done.

The position of the tang that turns it is different on the later cars so use a 1996-up sensor and reconnect the wiring as shown here to the right. VREF stands for a 5 volt reference voltage. SIG/RET stands for the signal return which is a dedicated ground circut for the sensors. There are a couple of things that will need to be changed. The mounting holes in the throttle body will need to be redrilled to a slightly larger size. Also, you should reuse your original idle air control solenoid which is mounted on the top. Reinstall it on the new throttle body facing the same direction as it was on the old one.
 

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all of that has been done. one of the things they always miss about the throttle body is the intake needs to be ported to the size of the throttle body. some have actually use the throttle body from a 1st gen escort GT which is 50mm. they also missed that if u get a bigger mass air flow sensor from a 94-95 escort, ur gonna need the ecu, egr valve and solenoid. also if ur runnin an automatic, u might end up with trouble codes for the shift solenoids as i did. and i'm pretty sure u read one of my posts from another thread talkin about where the mass air flow sensor should be located for u to figure out where u want the best torque from ur intake to be. check my photos for some ideas. http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... mId=919932
 

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I have a '95 1.9LX. I recently installed a MAF (and its tube) out of a '00 ZX2 (Zetec).

I had to disassemble the round air filter housing and extract the MAF sensor and its plastic tube. Then it was a direct bolt on onto my LX's square air filter box. Then I had to splice my old wiring onto the new connector (A to A, B to B, C to C, D to D)... now there are two extra wires.. E and F for the Air Intake Temperature sensor that is built into the new MAF. No biggie.. I cut off the two wires going to my existing AIT sensor and spliced them onto those... this is of course after measuring the resistance of both sensors.

The new AIT (built into the 3rd gen MAF) actually read a slightly higher temperature than my old one.. but still within spec. Also, if I even install a cold air intake, I don't have to worry about the AIT being relocated now.

I have to admit, the car has a lot more power, but I suspected my old MAF was failing which is why I did this mod... I got the ZX2 parts for free. I don't know if the gains are from now having a properly working MAF, or if the upgrade actually made a difference.

I also noticed about a 10-15 improvement in fuel economy (30MPG before... 34-35MPG now), but again not sure if the new design parts made this difference, or if my old MAF was bad...

My auto trans still shifts just fine... no check engine light.. no codes... no worries.

I also installed the battery and the mounting plate from the ZX2 into my car... so now I have the single bolt hold-down instead of that stupid bracket that goes over the top of the battery...

And unfortunately, that's all I was able to grab off of the car before the tow truck came to pick it up (a customer had donated it to charity after seizing up the motor)...
 

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i heard u'd run a little rich if the injectors werent changed with the MAF
 

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juggalo said:
i heard u'd run a little rich if the injectors werent changed with the MAF
If anything he is running lean given the increased fuel economy. Like I said before, its a game of chance when you swap in a different MAF and don't change the computer.
 

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well as far as i know, if u go with a bigger MAF and injectors that will work with it, it will advance ur ignition timing. here's the chart that i found.


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ULTIMATE MAF TABLE
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Jeffescortlx wrote:
To select the right sized MAF and Injectors for your motor,
find your HP goal, then select the corresponding MAF. The injector size in the last colum is the sized needed to be mached with the use of 4 injectors.

HP
Supply - Engine/MAF- #Cyl- Stk lbs - *lbs/4 Cyl
109hp...........1.9.............4..........15...........15lbs
117hp...........2.0 SPI.......4..........16...........16lbs
138hp...........2.0 Zetec....4..........19...........19lbs
174hp...........3.0..............6..........16...........24lbs
203hp.3.8 4.0 (2.5-94-98 )6........19...........28lbs
265hp...........3.0 SHO......6..........24...........36lbs
276hp...........4.6 5.0........8..........19...........38lbs
348hp...........4.6 Cobra....8..........24...........48lbs
400hp.........3.8 SC 94-95..6.........36...........54lbs

* Not all sizes are avalible. If your size is'nt, round up the nearest injector size, fine tuning maybe needed. Do that by either changing the fuel pressure, or by using a fuel controller like AFC.

Must use 12-16 Ohms high impedance saturated injectors.

Note: hp is listed at 85% duty cycle.

Any time the MAF value is changed, you change the amount of hp the computer thinks it's seeing, that changes the ignition timing. With the use of forced Induction ignition timing and detanation need's close attention. Ignition timing will need to be retarted by tuning, or compression ratio lowered for moderate to high boost levals.
 
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