Discussion in 'ICE (In Car Entertainment)' started by Wolff, Feb 20, 2007.
What a coincidence; All the 12 VDC wiring I've done can be characterized as a pile.
I know what happened... If 12V live into the remote terminal starts the amplifier and the normal remotelead doesnt, you must have grounded out the remote lead at some point... Grounding out the remote lead will damage the remote circuit in the HU and it sounds like that is what happened to you... Usually you should put a small 1 amp fuse in-line with the remote turn-on lead to protect the circuit.
wow I just want to know if he fixed his amp problem of intermittant power. and yes CITRATE the glass fuses .. do lose contact.. but it won't be intermittant as I went through that problem once the fuse got hot enough and the solder let go .. the fuse was crap .. didn't do anything intermittant. maybe it can not sure I haven't seen it. But I stated go with a ANL fuse and fuse block you will never have that problem for sure. also 4 gauge wire is capable of alot more then 60amps.. lol ... for instance Kicker requires 4gauge for thier 1000.1 amp. jl requires 4 aswell. My house requires 4 gauge to power it ... lmao .. wire is funny for the amount of amperage and current it can actually handle. I think it is funny watching people run 12 gauge for thier mids and tweet kits... little overboard don't you think? your subwoofer doesn't require that so why would your component kits. Wiring and what it can handle is all a big misconception. Citrate you agree???
thats because JL is over rated
JL Is over rated? no my friend it isn't a sony explode amp lmao ... it has a 1000 rms rating .. and that is the output on it. Nice try though 4whore.
Hey hows your mom been I haven't seen her in a while... JL is overrated.. I hope you didn't mean power output wise. also the dampning factor on thier amps is greater then most amps out there. If you know anything about SQ you know that is where its at. I guess Hifonics is over rated and so is kicker and everything else but coustic... your 1000 watt coustic doesn't even come close to my JL 500/1
I think his point is you can get equal quality or better for cheaper... Cadence amplifers, Image Dynamics speakers, CDT speakers, Arc Audio and a list of others come to mind...
JL is the Burton Snowboards of car audio... They have a lot of top notch products, but they are overpriced.
ahh 2 me you get what you pay for .. THE RIPPS power supply is great where most amps are rated at 14.4 volts.. the JL amps are rated from 11.. makes a huge difference
Yeah you get decent stuff... But, because of the name you are paying for that as well...
Trust me I worked in a Goodyear tire factory for two summers... I'd build the same tire for half the shift. Half would go off to one press and the other half would go off to another press. So half of them came out with a certain tread on them and the Goodyear badge, the other half came out with Motomaster printed on them. Exact same tire, one was twice the price (the Goodyear one). This happens in industry every where.
If you think Cadence, Arc Audio, Image Dynamics, CDT, Brax, Soundsplinter, F1, Orion etc. etc. Are second to JL, you know absolutely nothing about car audio... Go to an SQ competition and check to see if all the winners are running only JL...
By the way a cheap Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 off ebay is rated at 600 watts RMS, most buyers get a birth sheet of 650-700 watts RMS so the fact that your JL puts out 1000 and is rated at a 1000 isn't anything special...
ya but those birth sheets are also rated at 14.4 volts constant power or for 1 birp on the outputs. where it is hard to keep that continuous to the amplifier... no doubt there is tons of other equivilent stuff.. I use to run ORion and zapco .. and hifonics.. I just like the features of the JL line. Thats all. No biggy.
sorry for the double post I am house sitting and thier computer is a mess.. lol...
Maybe at 14.4V... But definetly not for a burp, the birth sheets are RMS not peak power.
rimmer, yes i agree that alot of ppl run bigger wire than they need to, but there really isnt anything wrong with that, also an anl fuse is a MUCH better route to take than an agu or blade. But for ppl that run very big systems that produce thousands of watts you cant ever have too big of a wire. The more wire you run, the less voltage drop occurs in the circuit. voltage is inversly perportional to amperage in this instance. with huge current draw comes dangerous voltage drop if you dont have sufficient paths for the current to travel. Btw jlongoria, i am 4whore's friend, but that alone does not say anything for my knowledge.
Yep, if you run 0 Guage for 800 watts you will literally have close to zero voltage drop... Alway put the biggest wire your budget allows, as long as you can hide it properly, there is no such thing as overkill.
Speaker wire, 12 gauge for subs is fine for almost every application and 14-16 gauge is perfect for components and coaxials.
i run 8ga sub wires and 6 runs of 1/0ga power and ground
WTF are you running????
6 Runs of 1/0 gauge is good for 25 000 watts @ 12V 8O
its 3 + and 3 -, but i run 2 earthquake d10's for a total of 6000+ wrms depending on how i wire it. All the runs are to combat voltage drop. I also have a hawker odessy 1700 battery Thats nothing, my buddy yuli, current canadian street A record holder, has 20 runs in his crx LOL
lol damn canadians
I dunno, dbdrag, IASCA are all based in the U.S.A. I'm pretty sure there are lot of guys down there that go just as big as him
lol but dbdrag is all over the world man, sure the world finals are in the states, but ive seen comps in nicaragua, brazil, europe, canada, etc
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