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The problem with nitros is not about anything but how fast you can x-ost it. If you can´t x-ost fast enough you´ll blow your engine. Free flow x-ost catback, cat and good manifold is not enough. You´ll need to really work on your canshaft part. Highlift camshaft, lifters, dual springs, light rocker arms. Sometimes you´ll need to port and polish to put bigger valves. Other thing is tranny. You´ll nave to make it stronger to handle 100 shot. Also your injectors are they capable to supply enough fuel for that amount of nitros.
 

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A little info about NOS. When determing the aditional HP for a certain NOS set up, the engineers use a Chevy 350 engine as their test bed. Since your engine is much smaller than 350ci that amount of NOS will more than likely not equal 100 HP on your engine. As far as "x-osting" (Spelled exhausting FYI) the spent gasses after the NOS is burnt in you cylinders, there isn´t much difference in the amout of Gas produced from a nornal cumbustion cycle. You only ad a slight little spray of NOS per Cylinder, and a slight bit more fuel, so what is left is only slightly higher. The Magic of NOS comes from the combustion pressure increase from the faster and hotter burn of the air fuel mixture. The main power ingredient in NOS (N2O) is the Oxygen atom. At high temperatures the oxygen seperates from the two Nitrogen atoms and is allowed to mix with the fuel. The added Oxygen to the combustion prosses allows the fuel that is added to be burnt more thuroughly. The Nitrogen atoms keep the combustion under contol to avoid a huge explosion. That is why adding pure Oxygen to your intake would be a big NO-NO. Anyway to answer your question, whether your engine can handle a 100 shot or not depends on a lot of things, mostlysetting up the kit properly, and making sure you have a good, sound stock set up. I´d do a compression check to make sure you don´t have too much blow by, because if you do, the NOS is only going to make the blow by worse when you hit the switch, and you won´t get the full potention of the shot. Also make sure your ignition system is operating 100%. One missed spark and kabloowy. As much as us guys hate to read instructions, make sure you read through the manual cover to cover before you even pop the hood. An air fuel ratio monitor would be real helpful too. If you dare see any leaness in the mixture, let off the switch ASAP. It´s the heat from the lean mixture, or bad ignition that can damage your engine. NOS itself is harmless, it´s the things that could go wrong with the combustion process while NOS is being applied that causes the nastyness.
 

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Okay, I didn´t read the whole post, but here´s one thing you need to know.

The prob with N2O isn´t getting rid of exhaust gases, its running lean with the mixture of fuel. Almost everytime someone blows their headgasket its because they run lean with fuel.

A stock internal GT is a GREAT engine. You have more in the internals of that thing then Saturns, most Honda´s, Sunfire´s, Cav´s, and Toyota´s of simular size.

Pushing a 100 shot IS possible. But, as said before...do it its displacement a 100shot will not be 100 horse...but it will be a significant increase in power.

The trick here is being able to support the shot with a spike of fuel...so you´ll need a FMU, and like an RX7 255 L/hr pump, and possible the big 550cc injectors. I would recommend using an ignition controller (like MSD Boost Timing Retard) to retard HARD under that big of a shot. Maybe think about running 2 step colder plugs to prevent the immediate knocking that comes after shooting that much.

I would even say go as far as a fuel computer that´s programmed to handle a shot like that.

You´re answer beyond parts is all about tuning

_________________

Jason Blade
93´ Escort GT

[ Edited by TheBlade On Date 07-16-2002 ]
 

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OK... the A/F meter is a good idea... also strongly consider a fuel pressure gauge. Watch for sudden pressure drops during the time you are spraying. Retard your ignition too. probably 4 degrees to start.

Now I expect to hear arguments on this, but run a ´wet´ system. Most EFI systems spray only nitrous, and use the injectors to supply the xtra fuel. I would recommend buying the small v-8 nitrous kit, shit-can the holley plate, and buy the small fogger nozzle. Put that nozzle in your throttle body in front of your throttle plate. Drill & tap a hole right where your air tube pushes on. it´s 1/16 NPT. This kit comes with 2 solenoids, one for fuel, one for NOS. You can get a fitting to take the fuel right off the Schrader valve on your fuel rail. make some type of bracket for the micro-switch for the WOT, and do yourself a favor if you are running a 5 speed. Buy a NO pb switch, and put that on your clutch pedal or linkage so itos closed when the pedal is all the way up. Wire that inline with the WOT switch. That way when you shift, you can leave your foot on the gas, but as soon as you hit the clutch to shift, the nitrous shuts off, and then comes back on when you release the clutch.
 

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Tman I couldn´t agree more. The switch on the clutch pedal is definately a great idea for clutch cars. I know I have wiped out more than my fair share of main and rod bearings as well as cam lobes by keeping it floored as I shift. This would only be made worse with a nitrous kit.
 

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The Wet system part I agree with, but the location of the Fogger nozzle I´m not to sure about. Putting a Fogger nozzle in the intake openning doesn´t promote an even distribution of the Nos/fuel mixture to all of the runners. The front runner will be getting more of the mixture and my start to puddle, where as the rear runner won´t get much at all. A true fogger system consists of one nozzle per intake runner, assuring equal No and fuell to each cylinder. If you want to run just one Fogger nozzle I would put it in the middle of the intake plenum and make sure the spray is directed directly in the middle of the 2 and 3 runners. Also, I don´t know how many of you have seen this awsome innovation by the good guys at NOS but they have a new delivery system out called the Nos-sle. Basicly you take out your injectors, put the Nos-sles in where the injectors go, then plug your injectors into the top of the Nos-sles Then you plumb the lines for the extra fuel and the Nos to thr Nos-sles and badda bing the extra fuel and Nos are supplied directly into the stream of your injector, eliminating puddleing in the intake and decreasing the chances of a nasty backfire. As of now I believe they only have them for the good ole Mustang 4.6, and they cost a but load. But I´me sure they would seat into the injector seats on an Escort engine pretty nicely.
 

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You know... you are right about the placement of the nozzle. We do the single fogger in the TB on the mustangs, but that is a different deal on the distribution. he ought to put 2 nozzles in the plenum. One between 1-2, and 3-4. That would get the best distribution, short of a nozzle in each intake runner.
 

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Forgot who makes this but there´s a system for Integras where a metal plate goes between the intake manifold and the engine. It´s got 4 holes but in the middle of each is a piped line for NOS. Something like that would be ideal for EGT´s. No tapping your intake plenum. Just add the plate. Doubt it could be modified to run on an EGT but there´s people here who have done ´impossible´ things so they´d be the ones to know how do-able this trick could be.
 

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Funny you should mention that. I was just thinking that same thing yesterday when I was working on my Pimpscort. NOS makes a kit like that for the 86-95 5.0´s. Basicly it´s a take off from the carburator plate idea. It mounts Between the upper and lower intake on the Mustang and has two spray bars runnung through it. I have also see a trick custom set up where a guy had the two spray bars mounted permenently in the lower intake. He had a shop drill straight through the inake and install the spray bars with the hookups coming out of the rear of the intake. On a Mustang that is easy since all of the runners line right up with each other. With the way our runners are seperate from each other it might be a bit harder. But the afor mention of two nozzles is a really good idea. It would definatly promote better ditribution than one nozzle, but then again, 4 would be the best rout, espsecially if you want to run bigger shots. But no matter what rout you take, don´t just through a 100 shot in on your first run and cross your fingers. Start small and work up, and make sure you listen (and feel) for even the slightest knock. If you get any knocking you know you will have to make some changes before you step up to the next shot, as long as that knocking wasn´t your intake blowing through your hood
 

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Another suggestion is this. If you blow the head gasket, don´t buy a good aftermarket one. Use the cheapest one you can get. Otherwise if you put a good gasket on, and then get another pile of evil detonation, it will then break something else... We did this on the mustang. Put 6 sets of head gaskets on it chasing a mysterious fuel drop. (main line from the gas tank was too small.) Once we got it good, then we put a good o-ringed gasket on it. Then in February we were dynoing the car, picked up some good detonation, and broke a piston. I do believe if we had cheap gaskets in it, we would just have blown it, and been ok otherwise. (this was spraying 250 shot, and popping and missing to 498 hp @ the wheels.)

Also, we ran the nitrous plate sandwiched between the upper & lower plenum like was previously mentioned.
 

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If you go to www.nopionline.com they sell a Nitrous Express system that comes with everything that you would need to hook up some Nitrous...and I may be wrong but I think a wet nitrous system is when nitrous is mixed with the fuel before injection and the dry nitrous is when you just inject in to the air intake..
 
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