Discussion in 'Part Numbers' started by zzyzzx, Jun 15, 2019.
Fits my 1995LX perfectly!
Will update with pics later.
I'm curious why you are reducing the pressure. With a recovery tank it should be okay, but since the fan only comes on when the coolant is scorching hot, it might tend to boil with this cap.
I occasionally toy with the idea of putting a manual fan switch in my car so I could cool down the radiator (and hoses) after a drive in the summer. I'm sure soaking in that 200 + degree heat every time it shuts down stresses the cooling system.
It seems that switching on the fan a few minutes before parking would be a good thing.
Instead when I park the car I'll sometimes open the hood, remove the FI relay and turn the ignition to the "ON" position, which will cause the fan to run. I let it go for a few minutes until the rad is cool.
My neighbours probably wonder about me.
I'm curious why you are reducing the pressure...
It's a not unusual to do this if you have leaks. I happen to have a head gasket which is only leaking coolant externally. I figure that I have a better chance of my stop leak actually working at 5psi as opposed to 13psi. That, and the car never leaves the Baltimore - DC area, so I might not need the cooling capacity that someone in a hotter place would need.
I got the idea to do this from someone else here (in an email), so it's been done before. I do not recall anyone here mentioning it in the fourms.
Not to hijack a thread, but; I once put a couple of pressure gauge fittings into the cooling system of my Dodge 413 based motorhome. I had also done this with a 3 cylinder Saab I put many happy miles on. The pressure in the cooling system is fairly localized once the vehicle is cruising down the highway, and fairly dynamic when going up or down hills. I would get pressures of 50 psi coming out of the water pump, and of zero psi on the same engine downstream from the thermostat. As soon as I came to a stop, the pressure was about 13 psi at each location (it had a 13 psi cap). With the other engine (a 3 cylinder 2 stroke) the pressure right next to the water pump was over 60 psi with the engine turning at 3000 or 4000 rpm, while at the bottom (outlet side) of the radiator it would be zero or less when coasting on a long downgrade. Both of these vehicles had a spiral coil inside the radiator hose coming out of the radiator and going back to the engine.
I havent done this on my Escorts yet, but I would expect the same kind of fluid behavior. Both of the above engines had a good supply of pipe-threaded ports to insert pressure gauge hose fittings; while I would have to drill holes in the Escort radiator side tank or the thermostat housing to do this. Am too lazy to do that.
Interesting to actually monitor what's going on pressure wise in the cooling system.
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