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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I am new to the Escort, infact I just bought my 93 EGT about a week ago. I am currently trying to get it ready for a safety check, but there are some electrical problems that have me stumped. Not all of these are preventing the car passing a safety, but they still bug me.

1. The horn doesnt work. Now, I know that the previous owner changed out the steering column, but that doesnt help me. I pulled off the pad on the steering wheel, and checked the wire that *should* have power going to the horn switch, and there is nothing. All fuses are fine. Im thinking that there is something wrong with the slip ring assembly where the steering wheel turns, so I will probably pull the wheel this weekend. Any ideas here?

2. The Dome light only works when it is placed in the ON position. Door Switches test out fine, and again all fuses are fine.

3. Headlight reminder chime doesnt work. No clue on this one.

4. Drivers Side Seat belt wont move back. It moves forward, and then I can manually crank it back. The door switch is fine. I dont even hear the motor running, its not even trying to move back, which is odd since it moves forward flawlessly. Passenger side works perfectly. Haynes manual has basically no information on troubleshooting the belts.

Comments and suggestions welcome

TIA
 

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alright, let's see what the sirag can do for yas...

1. Chances are that your horn itself is broken. Turn off your car and then push the horn button on the wheel. If you hear a "click" sound from your relay (located by your feet), your horn is broken. If this is the case, you can pull one off a junker. It's located in the front right hand corner of the car. It's behind the bumper, but in front of the frame. You can also check to see if it's getting a voltage. It grounds to the chassis. You'll have to remove the headlight to get to see it from the top. You can also lie down on your back and get it from underneath the car. It looks like a little french horn. It's about the size of a hockey puck.

2. How do you know that the door switch works? Chances are that your door switch is dead. If both your chime and dome light aren't working (which is activated by the door switch (switch 1, on the base of the B pillar) is dead. Pull it outward and make sure it contacts.
The chime relay is located by the driver's feet. It's close to the firewall and near your left foot. Kinda hard for me to describe.

3. Read above. I think your door switch is bad.

4. Mind you that there are TWO door switches. One is on the base of the B pillar and actuates the door chime and the dome light. There is another one which is in the LATCH of the door. Ford did this because it is a fool-proof way to actuate the automatic belts (which came standard on the cars for subsidy reasons). Anyway, if your belts are doing FOWARD but not backward... here is my reasoning:

The belts will move BACKWARD if the door is SHUT. This is you mechanically moving the latch on the door. However, if you OPEN the door, then the latch moves by a spring force which is within the latch. Naturally, the one to go first is the one where the belts do not move foward (spring force). The fact that yours are moving foward but not backward leads me to believe that either the switch itself is bad, or the tracks are bad. I'd put my money on the fact that the track is bad. To really find out for sure, you have to pull the interior apart on the driver's side B pillar and check the voltages getting sent to the track motor for the FOWARD signal.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick reply, siragan. I will try to add more detail to my original post to see if you can help me more...

1. Chances are that your horn itself is broken. Turn off your car and then push the horn button on the wheel. If you hear a "click" sound from your relay (located by your feet), your horn is broken. If this is the case, you can pull one off a junker. It's located in the front right hand corner of the car. It's behind the bumper, but in front of the frame. You can also check to see if it's getting a voltage. It grounds to the chassis. You'll have to remove the headlight to get to see it from the top. You can also lie down on your back and get it from underneath the car. It looks like a little french horn. It's about the size of a hockey puck.
The horn itself is ok, I ran a jumper from the battery and the horn sounded. With the wiring normally connected, I get nothing when I press the horn switch. I took off the pad on the steering wheel, and I get no voltage to the back of the horn switch.

2. How do you know that the door switch works? Chances are that your door switch is dead. If both your chime and dome light aren't working (which is activated by the door switch (switch 1, on the base of the B pillar) is dead. Pull it outward and make sure it contacts.
The chime relay is located by the driver's feet. It's close to the firewall and near your left foot. Kinda hard for me to describe.
The door switch is ok. There is 12v there, and the dome light doesnt come on even if I ground the wire, completely bypassing the switch.

3. Read above. I think your door switch is bad.
With 12v at door switch put to ground and headlights on with key out of ignition, still no chime. Can you describe what the chime module looks like, and I will try to pull one from the local pick-and-pull

To really find out for sure, you have to pull the interior apart on the driver's side B pillar and check the voltages getting sent to the track motor for the FOWARD signal.
I will give this a try tomorrow.

EDIT: Could the ignition switch have anything to do with any of this? I was talking to the previous owner of the car earlier and he mentioned that he swapped out the switch with one from the junkyard (which could also be faulty). I just thought that I would mention this, since there is no beeping if I leave the keys in the ignition either.
 

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First off i personall would not want to fix the chimes. I usually spend time to remove them. As for the belts. Try to manually move them when they should be moving on there own. They probally have a load switch on them like a power window to kick it out if jammed. The switch itself can get bad and cause it to stop with out much of a load.
But the best thing to do is to check the motor for power when it is suposed to be running.

Also closely inspect the wires around the colum for a loose conection or a missing ground. Especially if the colum was changed.
Finding electrical problems can be very frustrating at the best of times.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE!

The horn problem has been fixed. It turned out to be the slip ring assembly behind the steering wheel itself. The contacts were all twisted and one was broken.

The rest of my problems (headlight reminder and key reminder) must be caused by a bad ground somewhere. I noticed that the little light for the ignition keyhole doesnt work either. The bulb is fine, and there is 12v there, as long as I use a different ground. The ground that is there doesnt work at all. I will try to trace the wire.
 

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Yeah, from what you described, it sounds like a bad ground. The light switch by the key is suppose to go off 30 seconds after the doors are shut (when the car is off), if I remember correctly. I've never taken apart that section myself, so you're going to have to do a bit of voltmeter navigating. If you've got a haynes manual, they have wiring diagrams in the back which can be quite helpful.

You can also get an EVTM (electrical and vacuum tubing manual) off ebay for about 20 bucks. I've never needed it, but it never hurts to be well-informed.

Also, about the chime... I'm not completely sure off the top of my head where it is in the GTs. I just messed around with the one in my sister's festiva a few days ago. In the festiva, it's just a little black box that looks like a relay. Usually the best way to find it is to leave it running, then just use a stethoscope or your fingers to feel for vibrations in the "relays". Then unplug the one you think it is and see if the chiming stops. I'd run out to my GT and find out for ya in a jiffy, but it's over 150 miles away. I'm sure that somebody else on the boards could help you out.
 

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Rich0083 said:
4. Drivers Side Seat belt wont move back. It moves forward, and then I can manually crank it back. The door switch is fine. I dont even hear the motor running, its not even trying to move back, which is odd since it moves forward flawlessly. Passenger side works perfectly. Haynes manual has basically no information on troubleshooting the belts.
Exactly how did you test the door switch?
 

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If it is a one pin switch you check to see if there is ant resistance between the pin and the body of the switch. If it is a 2 pin switch, you check between the 2 pins for resistance. they should be 0 ohms when it is out. And nothing when it is out.
 

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siragan said:
Yeah, from what you described, it sounds like a bad ground. The light switch by the key is suppose to go off 30 seconds after the doors are shut (when the car is off), if I remember correctly. I've never taken apart that section myself, so you're going to have to do a bit of voltmeter navigating. If you've got a haynes manual, they have wiring diagrams in the back which can be quite helpful.

You can also get an EVTM (electrical and vacuum tubing manual) off ebay for about 20 bucks. I've never needed it, but it never hurts to be well-informed.

Also, about the chime... I'm not completely sure off the top of my head where it is in the GTs. I just messed around with the one in my sister's festiva a few days ago. In the festiva, it's just a little black box that looks like a relay. Usually the best way to find it is to leave it running, then just use a stethoscope or your fingers to feel for vibrations in the "relays". Then unplug the one you think it is and see if the chiming stops. I'd run out to my GT and find out for ya in a jiffy, but it's over 150 miles away. I'm sure that somebody else on the boards could help you out.
WHAAAAAT!!! 8O Escort Gt's have headlight chimes????? Wait a second, all this time i thought my 92 gt was poorly equipped and i've had it all along?? Could it be possible that the phenomenon causing my door chime to come on all time except when i turn key to "ON" position may be causing my headlight chime to not work??? Wow, i am astounded, i did not know we had them.
 

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When i asked how you checked your door switch, I was not referring to the switch that lights up your dome light. I'm referring to the switch in the door latch itself (inside the door, you have to remove the door panel and latch to get to it). It's the one that controls the automatic seat belt. They often get gummed up and require cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
zzyzzx said:
When i asked how you checked your door switch, I was not referring to the switch that lights up your dome light. I'm referring to the switch in the door latch itself (inside the door, you have to remove the door panel and latch to get to it). It's the one that controls the automatic seat belt. They often get gummed up and require cleaning.
I knew about this switch, I actually took the whole latch out the other day, and tested it. There is no resistance one way, and infinite resistance the other way.

Im just trying to figure out what gives the motor the signal to move the belt back. Is it just the door switch? or does that work in conjunction with something else.

The idea of swapping the complete unit out for another one was my first thought, but since I live in a relitivly small town, and none of the junkyards have a drivers side unit that works, im pretty much screwed. The Ford dealer wants more for the unit than I paid for the whole car.

Thanks again for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Farkin Seat Belts.

Well, I finally figured out what was wrong with my drivers side seatbelt. There was a problem with the rear limit switch, and when I fixed the wiring there, it started working right away.

I was overjoyed, and began working on other parts of the car. I was moving the car around the yard, and putting it up and down on my ramps a few times. (Started doing some brake work, ended up needing some new parts, will have to wait until tomorrow) Anyways I had the belt motor run less than five times, and guess what... the freaking thing gets stuck in the middle of the track and breaks!!!! So after everything, I'm still back to square one (needing a complete replacement unit)

What a day! :evil:
 
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