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Could have a leak in your intake (not vac lines, the actual intake) if the MAF sensor doesn't get a reading the RPM's bounce up and down until the engine dies. :\ But yeah, what Jeff said. >.> Check that, he knows his stuff.
 

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Yeah probably, but just about anything does that. My CEL is ALWAYS on because the O2 sensor in my exhaust is bad or something, so I dunno if it threw a code when mine did that.
 

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Is the engine hot or cold when it dies like this? It's not the MAS. If it were the MAS, then your engine would idle without it and die immediately upon opening the throttle.

Check your codes first. Code idiot lights sometimes won't stay on in the dash and can only be seen when you check them yourself.

If it's hot and it dies, it's probably the IAC/BAV set incorrectly. Pressure testing the intake at this point wouldn't be a bad idea:

http://stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm
 

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I've run and driven my car without the MAS on it before, and with a leak in the intake. The engine can die while idling but if you keep your foot on the gas it will continue to run. At least on the third gen sedans. Do you know that from personal experience on one? I'm not saying that /is/ it I'm just saying it'd be a good thing to check. :\ The GT's use a different system that probably behaves differently. Anywho.
 

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Yes, I do know from experience. I forgot that the third gens use MAS instead of VAM. With the three VAM cars I've worked on, they all do the same thing (idle rough at closed throttle, die at any other throttle position.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
zx2 probs

as far as i can tell it does not not matter if cold or @ N.O.T. it starts for 2 sec and dies immediatly. no spitting or sputturing. it will sustain high rev's but dies if u let off the gas. at high rev's there is no missing or anything like that. however, if i get it satrted and keep it bout 1/4 throttle it will run rough and cough and sputter. almost like leaning out ? it really sounds like an air/fuel thing but i just dont have a clue as to where to begin other than checking codes. i will get to that soon i hope
 

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Well if you're running really lean or rich, your ECU will shoot out a code for that too. But in order for the ECU to shoot a code, the O2 sensor has to be at operating temp... so you'll have to find a way to warm the engine up.

It sounds like your TB isn't bypassing the right amount of air. But the rough running at higher rpms makes me think that you may have a fuel delivery or spark problem.

Are there any noises associated with any of this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nope. maybe u miss understood. at higher rpms the engine runs fine.
when i say higher rpms i mean 4-5000 rpms. dont really want to hold it there to warm the engine up. i can keep it running at bout 2000 rpm and it sounds like it is missing on a cylinder or 2.
 

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If it runs fine, than your idle is just set incorrectly. Whats happening is that your IAC servo is either gunked up or set to closed. Chances are that your bypass air screw is gunked up too and not letting air bypass the throttle plate. Tearing the TB apart and spraying it down with carb cleaner will fix that problem, and once you've done that, re-set the base idle, which should be explained in the factory manual.
 
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