This all started out with my brake lights staying on/killing the battery. So I kept jump starting the car and then lifting the pedal for the lights to go off. Until one day I started loosing power while looking for parking which would have been a huge problem if I wasn’t able to pull into a half illegal spot. Realized the alternator was not charging so I threw a new battery in the car the next morning and drove to the mechanic. They replaced the alternator and the blue stoplight switch on the right of the actual button stop switch. And for some reason the brake lights still stayed on after they tested it and about 2 weeks later the alternator wasn’t charging again. So they figured it was the fact the new alternator was 95a and my model (third gen 2.0L sedan) only was compatible with a 75A. So they threw in a 75A. I also changed the actual button brake light switch twice after the fact and the brake light issue was fixed. The new button stopped working in reverse fashion where now the brake lights would stop working and then you can’t shift without playing with the pedal or bypass the switch. And after a second replacement of the switch it’s starting to go again. I did just read about the rubber stopper that’s supposed to be on the bracket of the pedal. It looks like whatever was acting as the rubber stopper has deteriorated. In terms of the alternator, the charging has been solid for about 3 months. I did hook up an Obd 2 scan tool and when I tested the alternator it said that the alternator was charging efficiently @13.9 volts when after I put the 95a alternator in it would say it wasn’t at like 11.9 volts. From my understanding it should have peak operation voltage of >14v. I just also want to make sure the brake light issue is just a stupid fix like getting yet another switch and putting a new felt/rubber stopper and not a power issue. Any advice on the alternator is appreciated.