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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This all started out with my brake lights staying on/killing the battery. So I kept jump starting the car and then lifting the pedal for the lights to go off. Until one day I started loosing power while looking for parking which would have been a huge problem if I wasn’t able to pull into a half illegal spot. Realized the alternator was not charging so I threw a new battery in the car the next morning and drove to the mechanic. They replaced the alternator and the blue stoplight switch on the right of the actual button stop switch. And for some reason the brake lights still stayed on after they tested it and about 2 weeks later the alternator wasn’t charging again. So they figured it was the fact the new alternator was 95a and my model (third gen 2.0L sedan) only was compatible with a 75A. So they threw in a 75A. I also changed the actual button brake light switch twice after the fact and the brake light issue was fixed. The new button stopped working in reverse fashion where now the brake lights would stop working and then you can’t shift without playing with the pedal or bypass the switch. And after a second replacement of the switch it’s starting to go again. I did just read about the rubber stopper that’s supposed to be on the bracket of the pedal. It looks like whatever was acting as the rubber stopper has deteriorated. In terms of the alternator, the charging has been solid for about 3 months. I did hook up an Obd 2 scan tool and when I tested the alternator it said that the alternator was charging efficiently @13.9 volts when after I put the 95a alternator in it would say it wasn’t at like 11.9 volts. From my understanding it should have peak operation voltage of >14v. I just also want to make sure the brake light issue is just a stupid fix like getting yet another switch and putting a new felt/rubber stopper and not a power issue. Any advice on the alternator is appreciated.
 

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lets start with the brake lights staying on. This is not due to you having to lift the pedal. Instead, there is a rubber stopper which has broken, fallen out of place and now the brake light switch does not contact it causing the lights to stay on. Look up at the pedal and find the stop switch. It is screwed onto the pedal. You can replace the stopper and resolve this problem
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ps, the blue switch you are playing around with is not the stop switch, it is the one for the cruise control
 

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Yup, what 4cylinder said. Same thing happened to me a few years ago. Seems like this little guy likes to rot out every so often. I might have to replace mine again in the coming months. Ran me about $11 from my local Ford dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok that’s good to know. All I had done with the cruise control switch was have it replaced by the dummy mechanic. Which I then replaced the actual stop switch several times myself. I’m on my third replacement does this mean without the rubber stopper it’s breaking each one I get? Let’s hope, I’ll figure something out as a rubber stopper if I can’t find one. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All right so, I have a felt button where the rubber stopper used to be. After my 3rd stoplight switch swap (duralast) I tried to adjust it and pop the actual button on the switch since I thought it was being pushed too far in. And eventually it just wouldn’t work. So a guy in the parking lot of autozone saw me getting frustrated and shared some knowledge with me. He informed me on fords, the harness that goes into the switch goes bad. So I cut the harness and put female adapters on the ends of the two wires. This worked without having to do anything to the switch, but for some reason it will stop working and if I play with the wire a little bit it will work. So now I have a problem, I noticed now when I hit the brakes and the lights activate, everything else (headlights/dash) dims. So if anyone can point me in the right direction it’s appreciated.
 
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