98 crank no start | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

98 crank no start

Discussion in 'ZX2 1998-2004 2.0L DOHC' started by ftpiercecracker, Apr 25, 2015.

  1. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    Update: pulled apart interior to get the computer and test connection between computer and sensors. I have the luxury of working at a dealership (jeep) so finding any and all electrical info is fairly easy. I printed out the pin outs for the coil, PCM, and CCRM connectors.

    The ground connections for both PCM and CCRM were good, less than 1ohm. All pins that were to be hot at all times on CCRM were checked and passed.

    I tested for continuity between the CPS (crank position sensor, which is new) and the corresponding pins on the computer and found less than 1ohm here as well. If you have forgotten I also tested to see if the crank sensor was sending a signal and found it was (1.3v AC).

    Continuity tested good for the coil to PCM wires as well.



    I am working on a compression test this very minute.
  2. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    Update: Compression results


    From passenger side to driver.

    120-130-120-120

    Tested twice to be thorough. I am not sure if it means anything but it took between a dozen and a half to two dozen revolutions for the pressure to reach its max. It's was a steady climb as well no up and down. The pressure does not bleed off
  3. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    Although pretty consistent, those compression numbers are definitely low and shouldn't take that many revolutions to come up. I'm betting on this being a timing issue. My '88 Pony's engine with over 500K miles has compression readings between 145-155PSI within about 5 revolutions.
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2015
  4. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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  5. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    I will try and check the timing, but I am still trying to figure out why my spark is so erratic.

    Plugs 1 and 4 give off one good spark after the first few revs, followed by nothing until the key is cycled again. Plugs 2 and 3 spark when the key is cycled from off to run, run to off and once after the first couple of revs, like plugs 1 and 4, but nothing when the key is held, also just like 1 and 4.

    I also tested the CPS again, this time right at the connector for the PCM and found good strong signal, so the entire circuit between the PCM and CPS is in good working order.

    I also did a another test on the connector for the coil. I reconnected the PCM and back probed each of the two signal wires to see what was going on. Both wires had less than 1v when cranking and what volts it did have were all over the place.

    I will probably be making a trip to a junkyard to pick up a CCRM and a PCM to swap in just to cover all my bases.

    Also, I think I should have mentioned this earlier, but the previous owners installed an aftermarket alarm. It works perfectly fine, but it is definitely something I am keeping in the back of my mind.
  6. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    Ignition switch??
  7. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    I thought about that, but I can't help the feeling that I am just grasping at straws. Just when I thought I was starting to narrow it down too.
  8. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    I know how you feel about not just wanting to throw parts at a problem, it can get expensive fast. I'm just trying to throw out ideas and suggestions as I think of them hoping you'll be able to get it going.
    4cylinder likes this.
  9. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    Thanks Fordman, you've been a tremendous help through this whole trying process.
  10. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    Keep giving us updates as to what you find, when you find the problem please post it so maybe it will help someone else with a similar problem at a later date. I was hoping some of the others would join in on this thread with suggestions, especially some of the ones who know the ZX2 better than I do.
  11. pextor

    pextor Moderator Staff Member

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    is there an LED somewhere on the dash that goes with this aftermarket alarm? is it flashing at all?
  12. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    You can count on it. That is probably my #1 pet peeve, people starting threads and never coming back to explain what finally resolved their issue. Even if they didn't figure it out and scrapped/sold the car it's nice to have closure.




    Yes there is and no it's not. I also discovered a tiny two wire push button near the fire wall on the D side kick panel. It is so small I didn't see it until I stuffed my head under dash. It dosent appear to do anything, but it certainly adds to my suspicion that something the PO did has screwed this car up.
  13. pextor

    pextor Moderator Staff Member

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    the tiny switch should be the valet switch for the aftermarket alarm. You can try holding it while you try to start the car, that's how the valet mode works.
  14. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    Interesting, i've never heard of a valet mode before, but then again i've never owned a vehicle with an alarm system, aftermarket or otherwise. Either way pushing the button did nothing.


    This is from a while back, but here are the pics of the empty black grounding block. The only thing i can figure is the electrical tape wrapped wires right below the block are what used to go to the block. Who ever did it, did it well. It looks like a factory wrap, the only possible give away is the crimp on connector used to fasten the wires to the terminal.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    This is the grounding point by the battery, you can see the wire come off the negative terminal in the above pic.


    [​IMG]
  15. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    Do y'all think the aftermarket alarm could be causing the problem? It still works good as far as locking, unlocking, panic button, but i know some alarms are designed to cut power to essential systems if set off. I once had to gut a friends truck of its aftermarket alarm just for such a problem.
  16. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    The pictures of the grounding block aren't showing, but if there's a bundle of wires attached to the negative terminal I'd suspect that someone just reworked it as some on this forum have done.

    I've never had an alarm system on a car either so really don't know whether that would be the problem or not.
  17. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    I installed an aftermarket remote key system on my 2000 SE. I didn't get the version that has the alarm system. I wonder what wire they cut into to disable the engine?
    Most likely the key switch to starter circuit? I would cut into the fuel pump circuit, that would not be as apparent to bypass.
  18. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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  19. ftpiercecracker

    ftpiercecracker FEOA Member

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    Thanks for link Fordman. I have ran into a similar problem with corroded/weak fuse holders on my old jeep. My was a tail light issue, but it was the same problem.


    Update: I finally decided to yank the aftermarket alarm so that I could remove at least one variable from the equation. Sadly it had not effect good or bad. I think I am going to replace the CCRM next and see what happens.
  20. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    CCRM good place to go next. They are a source of a lot of problems.

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