97 escort sedan rear sway bar end links | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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97 escort sedan rear sway bar end links

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Gabriel Panoussi, Jan 11, 2017.

  1. Gabriel Panoussi

    Gabriel Panoussi My approval ratings have droped.

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    So my car was really slippy on ice and bumps. Finally got around to looking under there and both rear end links have snapped due to rust and my rear tires have 0 tread on them all across. I mean 0 like drag racing tires 0.

    So before I head to the auto zone and tire shop anything I should know about this repair?
  2. rbailin

    rbailin FEOA Member

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    The slipping is 99% due to the bald tires. You can live without the rear sway bar links until it gets warmer in the spring. The sway bar keeps the body from leaning too much on turns. Use a short bungee cord on one side (hooked to itself) to hold up the end of the sway bar until you replace the end links.

    The broken bolt is thoroughly rusted to the metal or plastic spacer tube, and it usually has to be cut off with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel to remove it. When installing the new bolt, make sure it faces the same direction as the old one. Tighten the nut until 1/2" of bolt thread is exposed. Don't overtighten just because you can.
    Gabriel Panoussi likes this.
  3. Gabriel Panoussi

    Gabriel Panoussi My approval ratings have droped.

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    Thanks I already replaced them and it was fairly simple. The bolt was rusted and broke at a weak spot. I had to use the hacksaw to get the rest off. Then use a jack under the bolt just to help line everything up and get the tread exposed on the bolt.
    The car handles much better now. Although, I think the bar is bent because when tighned on both sides with 1/2" exposed one side seems tighter than the other. I am not worried about it. Traction came back too with some new(used) tires.

    Next I need to do the inner tie rods as there is play on them and they flop to the ground when I checked em last time I did the tie rod ends. That and a mysterious 1 amp battery draw from car battery. Soon I will also need to do the brake lines as they are badly rusted. Along with rear shoes. Yeah I got alot of work ahead of me.
  4. rbailin

    rbailin FEOA Member

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    Make the brake line job your #1 priority, literally. When (not if) a line breaks, usually just in front of the driver's rear tire, you'll lose 80-90% of your braking power because of the poor design of the master cylinder. It's a split diagonal system, as required by law, but when one chamber is drained, the pedal goes to the floor and there's next to no pressure on the remaining chamber. Both times it happened to me (on different Escorts) I was coming to a stop at < 15 mph. If it happens to you, DON'T pump the brakes, leave the pedal floored, shift into a lower gear or L, and use the parking brake carefully to come to a full stop.

    Buy a 25' coil of copper (cupro) nickel brake line with fittings on Amazon to make the job much easier than using steel brake line. I couldn't do the job myself without a lift, and it cost me $600+ 2 years ago to have both lines replaced from the m.c. to the rear junction block.
  5. dchawk81

    dchawk81 FEOA Member

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    Ice is ice. No amount of tread gets traction on ice.

    But bald tires are dangerous for all kinds of other reasons.

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