i have a 95 escort and it stalls when i go in drive after being in reverse. my acceleration is shaky and slow also. it happened suddenly. plz i need help! it doesi t after running for about 15 min. when its cold its fine. temperature is in the middle btw. any suggestions? i go 2 school full-time and am very stuck here.. :-[
95 escort stalling plz help!
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i sometimes have that kinda feeling. but i think it´s fuel line freeze from this godforsaken cold weather we´ve been experiencing. i just keep the tank above half, and threw in some dry-gas injector. fixed things right up in about a few days.
i drive an auto..
by cold i mean not the weather but the car. the temperatuer gauge is on cold. then it goes to the middleand its over. very werid. was working fine 3 days ago. stalled twice on me today
any other ideas? fuel injection? air filter? just saying stuff on the top of my mind.
by cold i mean not the weather but the car. the temperatuer gauge is on cold. then it goes to the middleand its over. very werid. was working fine 3 days ago. stalled twice on me today
any other ideas? fuel injection? air filter? just saying stuff on the top of my mind.
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376 Posts
Watch that.It coulfd be your tfi module especially since you say it´s fine when cold.Check the recall list first then if it happens and you can´t start it right away check for spark if no spark it´s more than likely the TFI module though you may grab a coil and check that first because it is cheaper, however it is less likely.Nearly every escort I have ever had has lost a TFI at one time or another.
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365 Posts
Sounds like a bad sensor to me.
Probably IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is defective and is not compensating for your engine warming up. It´s the sensor that plugs into the cover of your airbox(where air filter is)
Also check the TPS (throttle position sensor), O2 sensor, and IAC(idle air control) valve. Might be easiest to have a diagnostic test done on your engine to find which is bad.
I´d also check for any cracks or holes in your air intake tubes, and verify that your plug wires are making good contact and your plugs are clean and properly gapped.
Good luck!
Probably IAT (intake air temperature) sensor is defective and is not compensating for your engine warming up. It´s the sensor that plugs into the cover of your airbox(where air filter is)
Also check the TPS (throttle position sensor), O2 sensor, and IAC(idle air control) valve. Might be easiest to have a diagnostic test done on your engine to find which is bad.
I´d also check for any cracks or holes in your air intake tubes, and verify that your plug wires are making good contact and your plugs are clean and properly gapped.
Good luck!
thanks!
ouch tho sounds like its gonna be a huge problem tho. weird how such a new car with only 89, 000 KM could do this.. it had been sitting tho so i guess time and no driving hurt it. ok thanks guess im gonna have to take it in here. prob not run a diagnostic test cause thats 120 bucks :-o
lance needs good luck here
ouch tho sounds like its gonna be a huge problem tho. weird how such a new car with only 89, 000 KM could do this.. it had been sitting tho so i guess time and no driving hurt it. ok thanks guess im gonna have to take it in here. prob not run a diagnostic test cause thats 120 bucks :-o
lance needs good luck here
yeah I think redscorts may be right on this one...
checking the IAT is easy, it´s the little black connector right on the bumper side of the air resonator box of the intake... you´ll see a wire coming off of it. Just take off the top half of the air intake box and look up into it. You should see an orange bulby thing... if this thing looks like it´s fried or something, this may be your problem...
Also, what happens if you load the car by turning on the A/C or rear defrost? Does the car compensate by letting more air into the engine? If it doesnt...
checking the IAT is easy, it´s the little black connector right on the bumper side of the air resonator box of the intake... you´ll see a wire coming off of it. Just take off the top half of the air intake box and look up into it. You should see an orange bulby thing... if this thing looks like it´s fried or something, this may be your problem...
Also, what happens if you load the car by turning on the A/C or rear defrost? Does the car compensate by letting more air into the engine? If it doesnt...
ok i checked it and it seems fine..
my rear defrost i think doesnt work. itsthat button in the middle of the dash right? light goes on when u click it? i do that and the light goes on for a sec ad turns off. think its dead.
hmmmm .. im gonna browse around on it more and see what happens. anything else u think now?
my rear defrost i think doesnt work. itsthat button in the middle of the dash right? light goes on when u click it? i do that and the light goes on for a sec ad turns off. think its dead.
hmmmm .. im gonna browse around on it more and see what happens. anything else u think now?
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yeah my defroster doesn´t work, I have to hold it down very slightly to keep the light to stay on. it takes forever to defog my rear window though. :-|
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duh? hehe actually I think it´s the switch, like I said i have to slightly hold it down, if i press it and let it go it doesn´t stay on. but if i hold it it works. which to me means the contacts are just dirty or worn. when I get around to ripping my dash apart for the gauge faces and to paint it I´ll check out the switches for the defogger and power mirrors.
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duh? hehe actually I think it´s the switch, like I said i have to slightly hold it down, if i press it and let it go it doesn´t stay on. but if i hold it it works. which to me means the contacts are just dirty or worn. when I get around to ripping my dash apart for the gauge faces and to paint it I´ll check out the switches for the defogger and power mirrors.
yeah it´s the switch. I´ve seen this switch go on many many escorts... easy to run to the junkyard and pull the part and replace it. It´s a simple like 10 minute repair.
Also, you could have a cable break in the rubber hosing inbetween the rear hatch and the body.... this will also keep things from working on the back hach, like the rear windshield wiper, hatch courtesy light, center mounted brake light, etc.
I don´t think that there even is a relay for the rear defogger...
And this isn´t your problem, I was testing to see if it was maybe the IAC valve, but I don´t think it is... I think it´s an air metering problem or one of your O2 sensors is fuxored up. This will happen on a GT when you unplug the VAF. people say you can´t run a GT without the VAF plugged in, but I´ve personally done it before and it does certainly run, but extremely poorly. The engine shuts out at anything over 2300rpms and is very very unstable.
So this problem goes away when the engine warms up? Does it only happen when you go from reverse into drive? The more information you can give the more we can help.
Also, you could have a cable break in the rubber hosing inbetween the rear hatch and the body.... this will also keep things from working on the back hach, like the rear windshield wiper, hatch courtesy light, center mounted brake light, etc.
I don´t think that there even is a relay for the rear defogger...
And this isn´t your problem, I was testing to see if it was maybe the IAC valve, but I don´t think it is... I think it´s an air metering problem or one of your O2 sensors is fuxored up. This will happen on a GT when you unplug the VAF. people say you can´t run a GT without the VAF plugged in, but I´ve personally done it before and it does certainly run, but extremely poorly. The engine shuts out at anything over 2300rpms and is very very unstable.
So this problem goes away when the engine warms up? Does it only happen when you go from reverse into drive? The more information you can give the more we can help.
so holding the rear defroster wont wreck anything? when i old it down it also has the light stay on...? how can i fix this again?
when its just started it works fine, but if i drive for about 15 min, and reverse and go into drive it stalls... every single time...
the mechanic said my engine is perfect today. as good as it could be he told me wheich i wsa happy about. he thinks hteres a leak sumwhere because that what can cause it. sounds like a small air leak. which i thought also. prob just went.
now where is it is the question? hmmmm im gonna check where hte fuel injection is. any other ideas?
when its just started it works fine, but if i drive for about 15 min, and reverse and go into drive it stalls... every single time...
the mechanic said my engine is perfect today. as good as it could be he told me wheich i wsa happy about. he thinks hteres a leak sumwhere because that what can cause it. sounds like a small air leak. which i thought also. prob just went.
now where is it is the question? hmmmm im gonna check where hte fuel injection is. any other ideas?
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Just replace the switch. I´m not sure what year scort you have, but all you have to do is take out the left side of the dash and then disconect a wiring connector to the automatic side mirrors and the defroster. Then replace the defroster switch itself and you should be good to go.
And it sounds like you´ve got a problem with some sortof tranny control. I don´t drive a whole lot of automatics, but I do know that when you "shift" from drive to reverse or neutral, the whole transmission is doing some weird stuff... if it were a metering problem, then you´d stall in reverse, neutral, or drive...
So basically, when you start the car up and do
1. reverse
2. drive
and it´s fine...
but then after 15 minutes you try
1. reverse
2. drive
again and it stalls? Are you applying any gas or just going through the gear selector notches?
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Just replace the switch. I´m not sure what year scort you have, but all you have to do is take out the left side of the dash and then disconect a wiring connector to the automatic side mirrors and the defroster. Then replace the defroster switch itself and you should be good to go.
And it sounds like you´ve got a problem with some sortof tranny control. I don´t drive a whole lot of automatics, but I do know that when you "shift" from drive to reverse or neutral, the whole transmission is doing some weird stuff... if it were a metering problem, then you´d stall in reverse, neutral, or drive...
So basically, when you start the car up and do
1. reverse
2. drive
and it´s fine...
but then after 15 minutes you try
1. reverse
2. drive
again and it stalls? Are you applying any gas or just going through the gear selector notches?
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15,205 Posts
This is how I checked my air temperature sensor:
1. Go to the junkyard and get the wiring harness piece for it.
2. Remove air temperature sensor from car and bring it inside.
3. Using spare wiring harness piece and an VOM, measure resistance of air temperature sensor.
4. While measuring resistance of air temperature sensor, take hair dryer in highest setting and aim it at air temperature sensor. Resistance should change quite a bit.
1. Go to the junkyard and get the wiring harness piece for it.
2. Remove air temperature sensor from car and bring it inside.
3. Using spare wiring harness piece and an VOM, measure resistance of air temperature sensor.
4. While measuring resistance of air temperature sensor, take hair dryer in highest setting and aim it at air temperature sensor. Resistance should change quite a bit.
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838 Posts
Defroster Switch problem: The switch has a thermal relay in it that will automaticly shut the defroster off after it has run for so long. It is basicly a resetable circuit breaker rather than a switch. The relay will go out after extended use. I never need mine in AZ so what I did was hook some strobes to the wires for my rear defrost and mounted the strobe in the hatch window so whenever someone is riding my ass I hit the defrost switch an blind the hell out of them till they back off or pass me. Great results let me tell you.
Stalling problem: Could be torque converter, or other tranny related problem. After the fluid warms up and expands it could be causing this to happen. Check your level, and if you haven´t had it flushed in the past 3 years or so I would recomend doing that ASAP. If there was a problem with the IAT sensor, the TPS, or the TFI (By the way 2ng gen LX don´t use TFI ignion, they have EDIS) There would have been a Check engine light whil the engine was running. Did the Mechanic check for codes???
Stalling problem: Could be torque converter, or other tranny related problem. After the fluid warms up and expands it could be causing this to happen. Check your level, and if you haven´t had it flushed in the past 3 years or so I would recomend doing that ASAP. If there was a problem with the IAT sensor, the TPS, or the TFI (By the way 2ng gen LX don´t use TFI ignion, they have EDIS) There would have been a Check engine light whil the engine was running. Did the Mechanic check for codes???
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