[Silver]

I have a 95 escort lx hb, 1.9L automatic tranny. it keeps stalling while idleing when it´s warm. It works fine when you first start it in the morning or when the engine is cold but it sputters, rough idles and stalls when the engine warms up. It runs fine during normal driving, but once you come to a stop or put the car in park it dies.

so far i´ve replaced the pcv valve, plugs, plug wires, air filter and fuel filter. I looked for a leak in the vacume lines but didn´t see one, but then i´m not sure if i was doing it the right way...

Any ideas as to what the problem could be?

 

[siragan]

BAV (bypass air valve)?
ISC (idle speed control valve)?

 

[DeathSlinger00]

that sounds like the problem i have, but a little different. it accelerates well, but idles badly (engine being cold or warm, doesnt matter). it´s not anything with the air intake, i tossed in some fuelline antifreeze and carburator cleaner and still. it´s too young for the timing belts to be off, maybe the spark plugs? any suggestions?
oh yeah, i have a 2-door ´95 LX auto as well.

 

[James92Scort]

one of three things guys... air, fuel, or spark. You can always tell if you´re getting spark when you take the plug out of the distributor, and put it close to the contact point you can see the spark jump (at night it works better). if you had a timing light you could check your no. 1 piston timing against that. Keep your air filter clean and always make sure you have fuel...heh if you have fuel injectors put some fuel inj. cleaner in it, carb put some carb cleaner in it. I found something out right after I bought my car. the ignition module was old and making the car misfire. I changed it and bam the car ran 99% better. :-o

 

[Silver]

already replaced most of the normal maintinace and tune up stuff, The Idle speed control valve was replaced last year... I just replaced the o2 sencor, and i pulled the battery and let the car´s computer "reboot" itself.. same problem. I´ll take a look at the BAV, i didn´t check that yet...

It sounds like there is a hissing comming from the air pressure regulator or the fuel rail... the vacuum line going to the regulator looks fine, but i still hear hissing... is this a normal noise or could this be whats causing the stalling?

 

[2redscorts]

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05-03-2003 at 22:12, Silver wrote:
I have a 95 escort lx hb, 1.9L automatic tranny. it keeps stalling while idleing when it´s warm. It works fine when you first start it in the morning or when the engine is cold but it sputters, rough idles and stalls when the engine warms up....

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Since your problem seems to depend on engine temperature, you might want to check the IAT sensor. It´s the one that plugs into your airbox. Also, how about the thermostat?
Good luck with it!

 

[Silver]

IAT.. Internal Air Temp sensor? can´t find one listed for this car.. where is it? do you mean the Air Charge Temp Sensor?

Well it´s not so much a temp thing from what i´ve noticed, it´s when the engine low idles (700-800rpm i think, no tack have no way of knowing exactly) it sputters, when it´s ar high idle(1500rpm) it works fine...

 

[FourDiceS]

I know what you mean silver i have the same problem with my 91 gt.

It stalls on idle but only when I go to stop at a light, and I found that

it does it more often when drive it ruff...

It only does it once a week but it´s dangerous when it´s stalls in the middle of

the road while turning at a light.

Anyway, eversince i changed my alternator even if it can´t be related by any

way the problem seem to have gone away.

Good luck!

 

[fixitmattman]

I´ve got a 94LX auto tranny that did the same thing. It would drive fine at 1500rpm or better but would idle rough, and once it even stalled out on me at a stop light It drove me nuts trying to figure out what the problem was. :-| I tried everything, injector cleaner, new fuel pressure regulator, cleaned the injectors, and even a new fuel pump :-o Too proud of myself (and cheap) to go to the dealer for help, I consulted with an experienced friend on the matter. He said he had a friend that had a chev 1500 that did the same thing, and told me to take a look at my EGR valve. As soon as I had time, I whipped the throttle body off and the EGR. Th TB was lined with carbon, and the port that feeds from the EGR was pretty fouled up. The port for the PCV is right above the port for the EGR, and after 9yrs of the PCV doing its job, the hot exhaust from the EGR caused the oil to ash up inside the intake and TB. What I also found was that there is a little vacuum line that runs off of the bottom of the TB to run the EGR, and it was plugged with carbon. Therefore my EGR was stuck open. Since you have it off, you should check your EGR for proper operation, and clean it along with the TB with TB/intake cleaner. You should also check that vacuum line that runs from the bottom of the TB. I also found that the vacuum line, and its plastic connecters and line were cracked pretty bad (maybe even through). This is a lengthly line as it runs from the TB, to just under the BAT/Airbox, then back to the firewall. You´ll have to remove the plastic loom though to inspect it although it´s worth a look.

Best of Luck :-D
[email protected] if you have questions.

 

[Silver]

Thank you all very much, I´ll check the EGR and vac hoses this friday and/or saturday.. I took the car into autozone to have them check for codes in the comp.. didn´t find any.. oh, well. back to the drawing board...

 

[fixitmattman]

You don´t check your own codes :-o

 

[Silver]

I didn´t have a way to check the codes.. i just got a code reader (led).. The comp is not giving any codes on KOEO (111) but doing the KOER i get error codes 411, 412, 172, 536(last one´s cuz i never hit the break when it asks me to...) I checked the vac lines, i´m replacing one of them, the one to the fuel regulator.. The IAC sensor seems to be working fine, i tested it with a Digital Multi Meter reads thet the values are within specs...

Does anyone know what else could be wrong?

 

[fixitmattman]

411 and 412 always pop up when somethings wrong. Those codes mean the engine was out of the specified range for the low rpm check (411) and high rpm check (412). You know about the 536 - no brake actuated. 172 seems interesting. That means that the comp is not getting a reading from the O2 sensor, and your engine is running lean. Might want to try replacing the O2 sensor. They´re not that expensive, I paid about $60cdn for mine at Canadian Tire for a Neihoff. It took about 15min and 2 exhaust manifold burns to replace mine. :-o

 

[Silver]

I just replaced the O2 sensor a couple of days ago... put in a brand new Bosch o2 sensor.. it´s possable that it may be bad from the factory , but is there anything else that could case that code?

 

[fixitmattman]

What´s the condition of the terminals. Is there a good conection between the harnesses? Maybe one of the wires between the sensor and the comp is bad. :-?

 

[Silver]

When i checked the wires looked fine... i followed the cable back as far as i could, didn´t see any problems. I´ll check again, but i´m not thinking that thats it....