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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm thinkin I'm all good right...wrong. Today my car wouldn't start. I jumped it and then let it run for about 20mins to charge. It didn't charge. Kept taking a long time to turnover but it was starting so no more jumping. I go see my dad. Back before the pulley incident when we replaced the alternator I had first replaced the battery before we concluded it was the alternator. It was a refurbished battery that was thrown in there for free...so I'm thinkin not the best battery.

My dad did the thing where ya disconnect the positive to see if the car still runs, and if it dies that means it's the alternator. Welp it died. So we're frustrated cuz a couple weeks ago my boss used my car for a jump but didn't hook it up right (he refused to listen to me cuz he's a stubborn ahole who was tryin to prove he was man enough to jump a car).

So my dad says he coulda blown the alternator if a shock went into my car. Anyway those alternators are a pain to change so I was pissed. We decided to throw in my old Die Hard battery since it was never broke to begin with. We put that in there and bam it starts quick and doesn't die when we disconnect the positive. So what ya think? Is it the alternator or did that battery just suck?
 

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Kim said:
My dad did the thing where ya disconnect the positive to see if the car still runs, and if it dies that means it's the alternator. Welp it died.
Never ever do this again on any car build after say 1985 or so (possibly earlier). This is not the right way to test.

Never use a refurbished battery, they suck.

Where did you buy the alternator from? Many aftermarket parts also suck. I get most of mine from the dealer, junkyard, or other good places like NAPA or Car Quest. Pep Boys, AutoZone, and similiar places sell junk alternators.
 

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Qutie possible theres a small drain on the battery somewhere. Best way to test that is get a test light. Hook it up to the pos side of the battery. Then start probing all the fuses. When you get one that lights up the test light. You have found what is draining the battery.
 

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Kim said:
.

My dad did the thing where ya disconnect the positive to see if the car still runs, and if it dies that means it's the alternator. Welp it died. ?
ok, first thing is that in order to actually test the alternator by that method is to remove the NEGATIVE clamp so that the circuit is fully open...and you mentioned that someone hooked up the cable wrong when they jumped it which could cause the voltage regulator to go out...thatn is usually the first to blo when that happens....also, whenever you change the alternator it is best to fully bench charge the battery so that when you start it up you are not immediately taxing the alternator....I know this one from personal experience, I blew the windings on the rotor...that lesson cost me about $100....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The alternator is from Murray's with a lifetime warrenty on it.
I'll see about getting a test for a drain, cuz I think I'm gonna just take it to my car dude for an alternator test as well.

Is the voltage regulator the alternator?
The battery was fully charged before we started it with the new alternator.

I've learned now that in the future I'm gonna leave my boss stranded LOL! Also does it make a difference if his car never jumped. It turned out his battery cable was bad so we never got it goin that nite. He never crossed or sparked the cables and he had the neg and pos on right

I just can't remember if he did it in the right order. He might've connected one car neg and then pos and then the other neg and then pos. I don't remember which car he started with. I know it's suppused go dead car neg, running car neg, dead car pos, and running car pos right?

Since I wasn't sure I didn't argue with him. I argue with him enough as it is lol. And if his car skills are anything like his job skills...that's what had me worried. I'm constantly teaching him how to do our job...wrong person is the boss lol!
 
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