ok i just got my 94 egt and she runs really strong. Thing is i feel like im going faster if i shift at 5500 rpms instead of 7000. Common? i have a 4//2/1 pacesetter with a high flow 2.5 inch cat 2.5 inch pipe running back about a foot and a half and connecting to oem tail section with an annoying ass fart can out back. Is is likely that the "cat back being oem is that restrictive even with a big annoying muffler or should i look elsewhere. i had a timing light on it but i couldnt find the timing marks on the crank pully is there a trick to seeing this thing i can find the numbers and lines that are on the block. I have a/c is it in the way possibly? Only other mods is a cheap filter adapter with a k&n cone filter and some hard piping (custom cut) for intake. Im happy with performance but want more top end. btw it has new wires and cap and rotor. plugs look good anyone on here have a recommended gap other than oem? and the timing i heard 14-16 degrees advanced is reall good for these cars confirm this ? i only run 93-94 octoane so i should be fine. i also just replaced the fuel filter and i am getting a 4 wheel alignment and new tires tomorrow. i might change the plugs is anyone knows a plug that works really good in this car i would appreciate that input as well. sry for so many questions but i only got friday and saturday to work on it before i head back to school. So thank you all for the help. i look forward to your replys
94 egt mods need help
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high rpm power
ok, yeah thats not normal. the Mazda BP makes max power at 6500rpm. the mods you have shouldnt change that much if at all.
ideally, shifting at 6700 or 7000 redline (engine is capable of much higher) produces the quickest cars.
you say it "feels" like youre faster if you shift 1000rpm before max power.. i would find out for sure at a track or with an accelerometer.
many drivers run their BP at 16 degrees advance or more, as long as you have the thermal managment and the means to prevent spark knock, go for it. some of the Protege guys are running 18 degrees advance on premium octane fuel.
as far as plugs that work well in that engine, stick with the factory NGK plugs, go Denso if you want to, they work just as well as NGKs (sister companies), Bosch Super copper plugs are ok in a pinch..Motorcrafts work good too.
ok, yeah thats not normal. the Mazda BP makes max power at 6500rpm. the mods you have shouldnt change that much if at all.
ideally, shifting at 6700 or 7000 redline (engine is capable of much higher) produces the quickest cars.
you say it "feels" like youre faster if you shift 1000rpm before max power.. i would find out for sure at a track or with an accelerometer.
many drivers run their BP at 16 degrees advance or more, as long as you have the thermal managment and the means to prevent spark knock, go for it. some of the Protege guys are running 18 degrees advance on premium octane fuel.
as far as plugs that work well in that engine, stick with the factory NGK plugs, go Denso if you want to, they work just as well as NGKs (sister companies), Bosch Super copper plugs are ok in a pinch..Motorcrafts work good too.
ty
yea i know what you mean if i can figure out how to check the timing i may find it is only sitting at 6-8 degrees which could cause that as well. I think theres alot of rust in the tank as well cause the filter was so bad. I, looking into a new cat back from pacesetter or making my own custom jobby and i would like to get a k&n fipk since i had suck good luck on my toyota with that thing. ill keep you all updated as i figure out and as far as it being slower after 5500 it definately is i would like to get a gtech to show it but im positive i am begining to think more and more the problem is with fuel delivery. I am also putting a grounding kit on this car soon cause no matter what i used the car fumbles when you turn stuff on. weak alternator or just corroded wires im not sure yet. again thanks for the advice.
yea i know what you mean if i can figure out how to check the timing i may find it is only sitting at 6-8 degrees which could cause that as well. I think theres alot of rust in the tank as well cause the filter was so bad. I, looking into a new cat back from pacesetter or making my own custom jobby and i would like to get a k&n fipk since i had suck good luck on my toyota with that thing. ill keep you all updated as i figure out and as far as it being slower after 5500 it definately is i would like to get a gtech to show it but im positive i am begining to think more and more the problem is with fuel delivery. I am also putting a grounding kit on this car soon cause no matter what i used the car fumbles when you turn stuff on. weak alternator or just corroded wires im not sure yet. again thanks for the advice.
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port your intake manifold... i just did mine and i must say i am very pleased. i have 3 buddys with egts and i am the only 4 door (with an lxe) i hang out with one of my buddys alot and when im with him we always race. off the line he keeps up well infact through first and 1/2 of 2nd its whoever got the best jump but after that its all me. we took off on the freeway in 3rd gear and it was no contest from 60 about 85-90 i was easily a half a car length to a car length and walkin. that will give you top end
port the manifold
do you mean like port match it to the head or are you saying for teh intake and the head as well. im considering getting the rx7 vaf and corresponding k&n fipk as well as taking my 2.5 inch exhaust and installing a glass pack cherry bomb and dumping it out infront of the rear wheel for a more free flowing exhaust. also thinking about disconnecting the ps/ac how well will my defroster work with the a/c disconnected and does anyone know how hard it will be to steer without the p/s pump if you can be a little more specific for me on the porting i may do it next week and flow bench it as well. thankyou
do you mean like port match it to the head or are you saying for teh intake and the head as well. im considering getting the rx7 vaf and corresponding k&n fipk as well as taking my 2.5 inch exhaust and installing a glass pack cherry bomb and dumping it out infront of the rear wheel for a more free flowing exhaust. also thinking about disconnecting the ps/ac how well will my defroster work with the a/c disconnected and does anyone know how hard it will be to steer without the p/s pump if you can be a little more specific for me on the porting i may do it next week and flow bench it as well. thankyou
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Re: port the manifold
well, the defroster uses the a/c as a dehumidifier..... so, you'd probably be just blowing moisture onto your windshield and side windows........mopowr said:
ask somebody with a pony....mopowr said:
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yeah, if you keep revving all the way up to 7k, the powerband just keeps dropping off and you're wasting time in that gear. so if you can rev it up high enough just to make it drop down to maybe 4500-5000rpms it should shift extremely smoothly and still give you enough power to accelerate faster than you would have revving @7kFourDiceS said:
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its super hard to steer with no ps pump... it is possible but you could be looking at trouble. especially since modern tires are wider and flatter so you have a larger contact patch thus makin the 1500 lbs you have over your tires making it harder to steer.
personally i would run ps... its a pretty simple belt to remove so if you would like to take it off do it before you run at the track and put it back on.
i know on my gti i had for like 7 months i almost hit like 4 cars turning right onto a street and swingin wide because it was so freakin hard to steer the 7.5 inch wide tires with no ps
personally i would run ps... its a pretty simple belt to remove so if you would like to take it off do it before you run at the track and put it back on.
i know on my gti i had for like 7 months i almost hit like 4 cars turning right onto a street and swingin wide because it was so freakin hard to steer the 7.5 inch wide tires with no ps
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oh yes as for the porting i just mean gasket matching... the gt manifolds are 2 pc. so just get rid of the rought edges match the gaskets... there is a vics area that can basically be hollowed out (vics help would help your top end power) trust me though i had power tools and a heated shop not to mention i knew what to do basically... i just put my motor in like a month or 2 ago so this kinda stuff was fresh in my mind... and to be quite honest its a pain in the arse. there are nuts and bolts from the top and bottom for both pieces... all i can say is good times... if your up to it make sure you get a new tb gasket there is a water jacket through the bottom that will create a water leak without a new gasket... its like under 4 bucks at mazda.
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well, just to kinda go along with what this guy ^^^ said, here's a link to help you with the DIYer jobFordBoy4ever said:
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
good luck, and have fun!!!
sweet
i just had another stroke of luck i had sold some items on ebay and the guy never contacted me but he just has so now i have another 300 bux i just got my new snow tires to day and when they were aligning it everything was in spec except pass side caster so i told him to lift the car and check the ball joint to see if it was bent. sure enough it was so i replaced it tonight and am getting the car lined back up my tires are so tall they were hitting th spring basket on my struts. i had to persuade them 1/4 inch or so away from the tire with a 12 pound sledge hammer so i dont reccomend anyone running 195/65/15s on stock rims they are very snug. but back to what i was saying is that i am going to get a set of tokico s/r struts soon as the money order gets here and i have cosmo coilovers for a cavalier im going to put on the new struts. I will also purchase a new gasket set for the intake and port the intake a little at the flange as reccomended. I think im getting a new fuel sending unit and pump soon as well. I am determined to make this car to run mid 14s by spring. Thanks for all the help guys now im gonna go put it to good use
i just had another stroke of luck i had sold some items on ebay and the guy never contacted me but he just has so now i have another 300 bux i just got my new snow tires to day and when they were aligning it everything was in spec except pass side caster so i told him to lift the car and check the ball joint to see if it was bent. sure enough it was so i replaced it tonight and am getting the car lined back up my tires are so tall they were hitting th spring basket on my struts. i had to persuade them 1/4 inch or so away from the tire with a 12 pound sledge hammer so i dont reccomend anyone running 195/65/15s on stock rims they are very snug. but back to what i was saying is that i am going to get a set of tokico s/r struts soon as the money order gets here and i have cosmo coilovers for a cavalier im going to put on the new struts. I will also purchase a new gasket set for the intake and port the intake a little at the flange as reccomended. I think im getting a new fuel sending unit and pump soon as well. I am determined to make this car to run mid 14s by spring. Thanks for all the help guys now im gonna go put it to good use
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2,263 Posts
i guess there is a guy on a stock (mostly stock) bp motor he was hittin high 14s all day... gutted to all hell no ps/ac/cc... ANYTHING he also had all the vacuum lines plugged and what not but yeah you can get there but its super hard bolton without gettin to the internals.
14s
i intend to get a set of cams probably regrinds i am still sourcing people to do the work i am having hard time finding anyone i think i can trust to do a good job on them. with that the upgraded intake and full 2.5 inch side exit exhaust and a diablo chip i woult like to see 14s if i add a light wieght flywheel and spec clutch into the mix with a decent set of slick kind of like whats being sold on ebay right now and this forum i should thoertically be able to run 14s with no sweat mabey even mid to low 14s. I need to consistently run in the 14s by spring so when i go to the track i can tell a certain group of fagets to shuv it i hate haters anywho plus i love modding my cars this is just motivation to concentrate on one project sorta im also installing a 8 3/4 rear end in my dart utilizing a 3 link coilover system and doing a4 speed swap at the same time. but i already have all the 4 speed ish i just need to have my driveshaft cut when i get it measured. sorry for rambling on btw one last note my car has almost 250,000 miles on it and still roles on stock suspension engine and tranny (it needs help again thanks for the advice mabey ill use all this typing energy to start a car mod journal i will post pics of my newly installed recaro style race seats which i removed from a turbo metro yes there factory turbo metro seats (old project car) pics up soon
i intend to get a set of cams probably regrinds i am still sourcing people to do the work i am having hard time finding anyone i think i can trust to do a good job on them. with that the upgraded intake and full 2.5 inch side exit exhaust and a diablo chip i woult like to see 14s if i add a light wieght flywheel and spec clutch into the mix with a decent set of slick kind of like whats being sold on ebay right now and this forum i should thoertically be able to run 14s with no sweat mabey even mid to low 14s. I need to consistently run in the 14s by spring so when i go to the track i can tell a certain group of fagets to shuv it
i hate haters anywho plus i love modding my cars this is just motivation to concentrate on one project sorta im also installing a 8 3/4 rear end in my dart utilizing a 3 link coilover system and doing a4 speed swap at the same time. but i already have all the 4 speed ish i just need to have my driveshaft cut when i get it measured. sorry for rambling on btw one last note my car has almost 250,000 miles on it and still roles on stock suspension engine and tranny (it needs help again thanks for the advice mabey ill use all this typing energy to start a car mod journal i will post pics of my newly installed recaro style race seats which i removed from a turbo metro yes there factory turbo metro seats (old project car) pics up soon1 - 14 of 14 Posts
