FEOA Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I heard about a mod on this site where it take like 10 wire splices to swap a 2.0 in for a 1.9. I cant find the mod and i was just wondering wether or not im going crazy. Can anyone help me find the how-to or help me figure this little project out cause my 1.9 just ate it and im gonna have to do something why not give it "MORE POWER" :) Help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,915 Posts
All you'd need to do is find a 3rd generation 2.0 SPI and it'd be a direct bolt-in-swap....and you'll gain 37 hp right off the bat, not to mention 23 foot lbs. :wink:

Someone else can help you more than I can though, as I've never thought about or done the swap. :p
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
http://webpages.charter.net/jeffescortlx/
***How to swap a 2nd gen 1.9 LX to a 3rd Gen 2.0 97 SPI.***

Pics http://www.intergate.com/~ttool/swap.html

I paid $300 from a junk yard w/ 40,000 mi.
1.9 is 88 Hp, 2.0 SPI is 110 Hp 125 TQ
Both are SOHC motors, very similar. 1.9 is 9:1 C/R, 2.0 is 9.2:1 C/R. The 2.0 head has larger valves, intake runners, manifold, and TB.

2 days or less to complete swap.
You will need:
A 97 2.0 SPI, a Cheery Picker (engine hoist), Jack, rachet-it-strap, three but-end connectors to exstend the TPS wires, a goods set of standard and metric tools, and a fuel line remover tool. Also get a repair manual, there only $20 and you should have one by now.

You will have to decide what to do with the secondaries butterflies in the intake manifold (SPI) since the 2nd gen PCM does not have a output to control them. When closed they help out with low end power, when open they add high end power. I don't suggest cutting them out.
One way would be to hold secondary's open all the time by removing the set screw that adjusts them and replace it with a 2 inch long screw. Or leave the electric motor on manifold and wire to a push button or Tack shift light w/ a relay, Then set the light to what ever RPM you want them to open at. Read the "How to" "Adjustable SPI Controller" for more details.

Now would be a good time to do the "motor mount mod", Have some window sealer ready.
Also have new Fuel Filter, new exhaust gasket, and PVC inlet tube gaskets ready.

This swap was done to a 96 LX that uses OBDII computer.
Instructions will very a little for 91-95, Mostly sensors, and throttle cable.

Parts that must be used:
Must use 97 Fuel system, Fuel rail, injector, FPR. Just buy a 97 Escort motor (only motor used that year). 98 and up use a different fuel system completely.

All 2nd Gen Trannys will bolt up to 2.0.

Must use 91-96 fly wheel and clutch, 97-up will not work.
91-96 uses a smaller main shaft on the tranny, and a smaller clutch.
( if you use a 2.0 flywheel and pressure plate you can use a 90-99 Eclipse turbo clutch disc, it will fit the splines on the 2nd gen tranny main shaft, use 91-96 throwout bearing)

The 91-95 and 96 computer (PCM) will run the 2.0 fine, no need to swap.

Must use 91-96 PVC tube. 97 PVC Tube (attached to block w/3 8mm bolts)will hit tranny clutch hydraulic bracket.

Use 91-96 Coolant temp sensor and fan sensors with housing to the heater core and T-stat housing off the head. Or you will need a heater core hose from 3rd Gen. Have new gasket and t-stat ready.

Use all 91-96 accessories and bracket: Starter, Alternator.

Power steering, A/C Compressor can be left in car w/bracket during the swap.

Start by:
Take out/off- Hood, Radiator, Alternator, Starter, exhaust manifold (or header), Accessory bracket (push to front,can leave power steering pump and compressor line hooked up)

No need to pull tranny if you have a manual. Remove crank pulley, crank sensor and heater core hose (unless auto). Hook up hoist before unbolting motor mounts or unbolting motor from tranny to not put any stress on main shaft. Then you will have to completely remove the passengers side motor mount. Next use a jack to hold the tranny up. Then remove the front and side tranny mounts. Next unbolt motor from tranny. Then use a rachet-it-strap to gently pull tranny to driver side, don't get too rachet happy, you could mess up a u-joint or clutch lines. Next, push the motor apart from the tranny.
This will give you enough room to remove the motor and clutch, You can reach a wrench in between the motor and tranny to unbolt the clutch to make it easier to remove. Than rip that sucker out of there.
Next reassemble.
The most frustrating part of the entire swap is getting the tranny main shaft in the clutch, while putting the tranny and motor together, just take your time and move the crank with a wrench to help line things up. ( use the clutch disc alimnment tool while assembling the clutch.)

Note: Automatic Transmissions do not need to unbolt the tranny mounts. Just pull off the plate on the bottom side of the oil pan to unbolt the torque converter. Motor will then remove.

Vacume lines:
Unscrew the vacuum line distributor from the 91-96 intake manifold. Make a coupler from a short piece of hose to connect it to the drivers side vacuum port. Then connect the brake booster hose, PCV, FPR hose, EGR if you have it,(use hoses from 91-96). On the passenger side port, plug in the cruse control. (Vacuum lines will vary w/ year.)

All sensors and injectors used on a 97 motor are 100% compatible with a 96 wiring harness, The TPS wire's will have to be extended about 4 inches. You can use the 97 throttle body and Idel air valve.
91-95 will have to swap sensors as per required.

Throttle cable from a 96 is a direct fit, you will have to use the second hole down to take up the slack. No modifying necessary. 91-95 bracket may need to be modified.

Fuel lines are a direct fit, just need to unclip to split them up,
one on each side.

You will have a left over bolt, one that holds the motor to the tranny. For some reason the bottom rear hole is off. But no problem you will still have like 6 or so holding them together. If your a perfectionist than just swap oil pans, than all bolts will line up.

I have put about 10,000 mi on since the swap, no problems of any kind, It runs a perfect A/F ratio.
Good Luck, It easy if your prepared.
The power band from the SPI is much wider than the 1.9. I still have the factory 14" little wheels, It barely hooks up in first.
Gas mileage is just as good as the 1.9.

Note:
91-95 TB (throttle bodys) have the "key's " for the TPS (throttle position sensor) at a 45º angle off when compared to 96,97 and up (OBD2).
So if you use your old 91-95 TPS on the 97 TB you must mount the TPS 45º off for it to move. If you don't the TPS will not move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
WOW you guys are amazing. this is exactly what i was looking for i can thank you enough. You dont know how much this means to me
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Re: Fuel Pump

Sandman56 said:
I need the fuel pump in order to feed this beast correctly dont i :?
What beast? the 2.0? no, the stock is plenty powerfull.
The turbo? no unless your using stock injectors with a FMU than yea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
but its running lean as hell anybody got any other suggestions (how could this pump that ran an 88hp motor feed enough fuel to run one with 110hp)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Sandman56 said:
but its running lean as hell anybody got any other suggestions (how could this pump that ran an 88hp motor feed enough fuel to run one with 110hp)
Ford uses the same pump for most of there cars.
The A/F is controlled by injectors pulse width, and injectors size.
Most Fords run about 32-40 psi, our fuel pump can push 80 psi.
Trust me I'm using a stock fuel pump in both my 96 2.0 hybrid and my 1.9 turbo. I have pleny of fuel.
You need a new O2 sensor or you a/f gauge is'nt working properly.
What do your plugs look like?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i thought i posted to this early anyway, they have white deposits on them and they are very dry. the top of the O2 sensor looks the same as the plugs i got a new O2 from autozone but the plug is off and its only got 3 wires (what the hell) so im not sure how i need to do a little mod to fix this crap. otherwise i got work tomorrow so im done for the night
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,421 Posts
Sandman56 said:
i thought i posted to this early anyway, they have white deposits on them and they are very dry. the top of the O2 sensor looks the same as the plugs i got a new O2 from autozone but the plug is off and its only got 3 wires (what the hell) so im not sure how i need to do a little mod to fix this crap. otherwise i got work tomorrow so im done for the night
I'am pretty sure it's not your fuel pumps fault. Do a fuel pressure check, at idel it should be 32, than blimp the throttle and it should spike to 40.
Make sure the O2 sensor is wired completly, The most important one is the gray one, the white are just for the heater (make sure that is what your manual says , and that it jives with your wiring.)

You could have a vacume leak, any where from the MAF to the TB, or EGR pretty much any where would make you run lean .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok its in its hooked up and i changed the O2 sensor. Why was it fucking up you ask? Well im a fucking idiot and didnt set the timing so i did that last night and now it runs fine. I should have left the butterflies closed cause it take off slow as hell. but i worry about that latter. for now i need to know about rebuilding the 1.9 has anyone bored one of these out and if so then what too and did we ever answer that question about putting the DOHC heads on these blocks?
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top