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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have the 93 1.9lx with Egr valve that i attempted to remove with little success. i was able to unbolt it from the manifold just fine and i loostened it from the exhaust pipe (not manifold) and it still wouldnt come out..idk if i missed anythin but i have a brand new egr waiting to be installed..and a jumpy idle that likes to come and go that i would like to get rid of...and in the process i have replaced both engine coolant sensors (yet my temp guage never goes past C), new plugs and wires (gapped at .054"), oil change w/ filter, new pcv valve, o2 sensor, fuel filter, coolant change, blead and changed front and back brakes, new thermostat, cleaned maf, umm i think thats bout it and the idle still jumps when its warmed up..i was thinkin bout cleaning the IAVC but none of the part stores carry replacement gaskets (they are special order) any ideas on what i can do.oh yea and the radiator fan wont turn on..and yesterday i started gettin my check engine light coming on and off every once in a while..i tried to read the codes but i need help. ive read so much that idk wat else to try
 

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put ur egr back on cuz i do not see that as being the problem. if ur gettin irratic idle like the engine keeps goin wOwOwOwOw that usually means ur runnin rich fuel. check the wires to everything u have replaced. easyest way to get trouble codes is to take it to schucks or auto zone, not sure if any other auto parts store would do it. they will do it for free and tell u what the problem is.
 

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Are you saying the lower end of your EGR tube fits into the exhaust pipe -downstream- from the catalytic converter? That was the layout on the 91 Escorts: the EGR tube ran almos straight down from the EGR valve, rather than around the side of the engine head, to screw into a fitting in the exhaust manifold - which is how it ran on the usual 93's and later. Could it be someone has replaced the original motor?
Anyway, you can expect some trouble trying to get the EGR tube to come loose from the 'bung' it fits into. I soaked mine with WD-40, wiggled it for a while, and finally heated the 'bung' with my acetylene torch. When the bung was orange colored, the pipe finally came out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea the egr pipe goes straight down ..and as far as I kno it looks like the orig motor..damn I dnt have a torch tho..guess I wnt b changing that...I want to fix the idle and temp guage issue...the idle it fine wen it first starts up but as it warms up the rpms start to jump from 500 -1000 rpm wen I'm in neutral..and idk wats goin on wit my temp guage..wen it's cold it's below the c and wen it warms up it gets closer to the c but never any further..and any body have a pic of using a paper clip to read codes ..the pics in the how to dnt work
 

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juggalo said:
put ur egr back on cuz i do not see that as being the problem. if ur gettin irratic idle like the engine keeps goin wOwOwOwOw that usually means ur runnin rich fuel. check the wires to everything u have replaced. easyest way to get trouble codes is to take it to schucks or auto zone, not sure if any other auto parts store would do it. they will do it for free and tell u what the problem is.
I don't think any of the auto parts stores in my area pull codes on OBD I systems.
 

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cybrphantom said:
Yea the egr pipe goes straight down ..and as far as I kno it looks like the orig motor..damn I dnt have a torch tho..guess I wnt b changing that...I want to fix the idle and temp guage issue...the idle it fine wen it first starts up but as it warms up the rpms start to jump from 500 -1000 rpm wen I'm in neutral..and idk wats goin on wit my temp guage..wen it's cold it's below the c and wen it warms up it gets closer to the c but never any further..and any body have a pic of using a paper clip to read codes ..the pics in the how to dnt work
The following link shows how to check the codes on an OBD I system.

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=61758
 

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For the idle I would clean the IAC valve. For the gasket just get a roll of gasket material and cut your own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well as Fordman stated no auto parts store will check codes on an OBD I system and it costs about $89 to have the codes read. I will attempt checking the codes tomorrow. Didnt expect it to be raining today. And what would be the best place to buy gasket material..ive heard using a cardboard box as a temp fix, or would it b possible to use "Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker 3.35Oz 598 Ultra Black". Also whats best to clean the iavc some say to use carb/throttle cleaner others say use brake cleaner.




P.S...Is $120 too much to pay for front and back mx-3 seats in pretty good condition and a tear on the drivers seat
 

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You can use cereal box cardboard for a temp fix. You can get real gasket material at any auto parts store, I got my roll at a local hardware store for $4. You want the gray kind. Either cleaner will work on the IAC, just use what ever you have available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sweeet!! will take it out tonight when im done using the car tonight and give it a good cleaning...hopefully it will help and give me more time to focus on the remaining 2 problems...thanks for the input guys i appreciate it..now for the temp guage and cooling fan
 

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since ur OBDI u can use the CEL to pull trouble codes. u just need a jumper wire. but there have been many people tryin to do this that didn't get the right codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
okay slight update...i took off the iavc today and was able to reuse the gastket so no loss there..i sprayed with brake cleaner wiped it down let it dry n threw it back on...idle doesnt jumps as much maybe now from 700-900 but didnt test it any more...maybe ill give it another soaking in the morning...what would be the best way to ground out the sensors for the ECt and sender or what else could be the problem...again i changed both sensors and thermostat..


..nvm drove it around for a few tonight and it came back...gas mileage sux almost at half tank n im at 119miles..im smell fuel maybe coming from the vents if it idles too long..im thinkin its dumpin extra fuel cuz it thinks its still cold..idk wut to do next
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yea i checked all the vacuum lines all of them are connected fine...the worse looking hose i have is from the air box to the valve cover...although i did have the line to the fpr crack on me but the problem was there b4 that happend (temp fixed with tape..cant seem to find a replacement
 

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if ur temp guage is still stittin at C u still have a problem which is y ur runnin rich causin u to smell fuel and an irratic idle. what i think it could be is a flapper inside the housing. i believe there's a how to on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
juggalo said:
if ur temp guage is still stittin at C u still have a problem which is y ur runnin rich causin u to smell fuel and an irratic idle. what i think it could be is a flapper inside the housing. i believe there's a how to on this.
and im guessing by flapper u mean thermostat housing bypass thing and i would check that except im not havin problems with the car warmin up i have problems with the car thinking its cold...which im guessing is a bad ground...i checked the bracket holding the 2 sensors and its tight on the tranny so idk where else to look
 

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still, it's known to happen
 

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If your temp gauge is still reading cold then your problem is one of 2 things. The bracket that holds the temp sensors isn't grounded or the bypass valve in the t-stat housing is bad. I would check the ground first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
juggalo said:
still, it's known to happen
is there anyway to test this besides taking the housing off and replacing it..and im pretty sure most temp guage problems are related to bad grounding
 

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i'm not sure how to test it without takin it off but i've heard of people replacing the intire housing with one from a 2.0 spi and sayin problem solved.
 
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