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93 gt rear defrost

Electrical 
699 views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  LariRudi 
#1 ·
I've had my rear defrost disconnected for quite awhile. Since it's getting cold, I wanted to see if I can get it going again. It works, but every time I have it connected it overheats and melts the wiring or plastic around the pins. Have any of you had this issue? Is there a certain way it has to be connected? I'm about ready to just solder it and wrap it in electrical tape. Any ideas?
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#2 ·
It appears the wires in the melted connector are corroded. High resistance(corroded) wires can get very hot. I would strip back those wires in the white connector and replace them if necessary. if they look fine, I would replace the factory wire with larger gauge wire.

Alternatively, you may have a short to ground some where after the switch and the affects are being seen at this connector. The only flaw in this thinking is the fuse, if the proper size, should blow.
 
#3 ·
I'm leaning with Shake's "corrosion" comments.

However, if you want to check further [don't know which year you have?] the 1994 Service Manual [page 01-11-15] suggests testing the power TO the rear grid, and it's not supposed to exceed 10 volts [I'm suspecting you're getting LESS due to the corrosion] and then being careful not to damage your grid, the voltage is the MIDDLE of any grid line should be approx. 5 volts [makes sense, right?]........ obviously the OTHER side of the grid will be zero volts [grounded].

Again, leaning with the above corrosion comments, I'm thinking you'll be getting LESS than 10 volt at the connector that feeds that grid.

The fuse shown in 1994 Owner's Manual is to be 20 amps.

[Edit; I don't expect that the grid is THE problem, but if you get LOW voltage there, it adds even MORE to what Shake is saying about corroded wires or a short between the switch and the grid]

Good Luck.

LarryR
 
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