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Discussion Starter #1
Ok i thought id make a separate post on the next issues im trying to solve on this wagon since i already got the shifting problem taken care of.

Agin this is a 92 Escort LX Wagon 1.9L Manual with 109,000 Miles.

I have 3 new issues i need to tackle so here they are.

Issue 1: Car seems to rev up in between shifts. im thinking this is called rev hang? what would cause this to happen.

Issue 2 : When car hasnt been started in a while, ill start it and it will idle a little high like most cars do to warm up the engine. when the idle slowly comes back down to the normal idle it has some issues.

The car will idle up and down really rough almost sounds like its choaking. I can let it sit there and do it for days and it wont stall out and this issue dosnt affect driving at all only when it goes back to its normal idling point.

I have already cheacked for any kind of vacuum leak and couldnt find any.

So im thinking TPS or EGR.

Issue 3: Last winter the car had a bad heating problem. On a cold day it would take 45min to warm up and then while driving the temp gauge would go down to cold. well i figured out the coolant bypass valve was melted inside the thermostat housing so i got a new housing.

The car will now heat up but the gauge will only go to the N on Normal.

On a hot day the temp gauge will go to the center of the word Normal.

I get a good amount of heat but im hoping that a cold day wont affect my car again like it did last year.

so all in all any ideas on why it only goes under the N on Normal?

Im hoping a coolant flush will take care of this but i dont know.

Parts i have replaced :
PCV Valve
Mass Air Flow sensor
Idle Air Control Valve
Air filter
Plugs & Wires
Clutch Master Cylinder
Slave Cylinder
Thermostat
Clutch Kit

Im sorry if this is a lot but im trying to get everything taken care of on this car before winter hits.

Any info would be of great help to me.

Thanks.
 

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the temp gauge only hitting the N on normal or slightly below is OK, on a cold day it can't keep all the coolant hot so it runs SLIGHTLY cooler, it shouldn't be a huge problem, what I did to fix the problem was literally put tape across the radiator like truckers do when washington had that freak cold streak, my car would not warm up especially on the freeway it'd just stay cool, had OK heat, so I taped about 1/3 of the radiator off staring from the bottom up, masking tape works best since it is easy to remove!

the crazy idle sounds like the idle air control valve, IAC, is acting up, that'd be my only guess, that or mass air flow sensor, clean the MAF with some brake clean over the small wires carefully and let it air dry and put it back in. and check real close for vacuum leaks took me forever to find one on this ladys car with some brake clean, finally found a leak on the IAC lol, silicone and let it dry and it was good

best of luck, later on!
 

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Problem 1 is probably tps or sticky throttle cable.

Problem 2 could be a dirty maf, or do the 1.9's use a flapper style like the 1.8's? It's been too long since I've owned my LX's.

Problem 3: Lack of a thermostat will do what you subscribed. But my GT on a cold start will get between the R and the M, and then the fan kicks on and it cycles between the N and the R.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i replaced the MAF not to long ago so its brand new.

I also replaced the thermostat when i replaced the MAF.

I listed all of the parts i have replaced to try and knock out every possible part that could be causing my idling problem.

I think im just going to go ahead and replace the TPS and see if that dose anything.

Any more info would be great.
 

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Sorry I skipped over parts that were replaced, but please do keep in mind, just because it's new, doesn't necessarily mean that it is good, it's always best to test parts.
 

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I dont have a lot of faith in the temp gauges in my Escorts; though they may have worked better 16-18 years ago. I have a 94 Escort 1.9L that gets up to the N in normal in mild weather (70's) and up to the O in normal when its hotter (90), and will get up to the "A" in slow traffic, when the fan comes on. Before I replaced the 'temp' sender unit on that car the Temp gauge barely moved off of the left side of the gauge. On my 92 1.9L it points to the M all of the time except in traffic. It gets well beyond the end of the word NORMAL before the fan comes on. This gauge read even higher before I replaced the corroded original ground connections at the negative post of the battery. (Now the ground wires are all soldered to the body of the car near the battery, as is the battery gnd cable.)
I have a couple of cars whose heater were feeble in cold weather, until I got the heater cores cleaned out. They were not Escorts though. I wouldnt have bothered to get the heater cores cleaned if I had not taken the dashboards out for other reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well i went out and got a new TPS and so far so good.

The car idles a lot smother than it did and it dosnt act like its choking.

Left it running for a long time and all is good but i did notice that my check engine light came on but im thinking this was bound to happen because i did notice when i bought it that it was running a little rich so im thinking its an O2 Sensor.

Also the new TPS has cured my rev hang in between shifts.

and for the temp gauge i think im just going to do what Escort92Man said about covering some of the radiator just in case.

Next thing i need to get now is a speed sensor and try to figure out why my damn driver side side seatbelt is stuck in the center and wont budge forward or backward.
 

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sweet I might be right for once ha ha :D :)

yeah if it's COLD out they lose heat fast small engine can't keep all that coolant hot. at least that's what I found from personal experience, especially if you don't have A/C that goes infront of the radiator that blocks flow itself and if it's gone the radiator gets full flow and cools it way too much.

and if it's rich yup oxy sensor time.

the driver seat belt, there is a little round cap near the floor where the automatic motor is, remove that little cap and put your allen wrench tool in there and turn it it'll manually bring the belt back to closed position and leave it there and just slide in and out of the belt, that's what I did my motors are both shot on my EGT so till I convert to manual seat belts I just get in and out of it in the locked position :) if you need pics of the little cap I'm talking about lemme know I'd be happy to show you!

till then later on! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea i know what your talking about. i actually have that entire panel that covers the motor taken off. i saw that you can use an allen wrench and i did just that but it wont budge at all.

ill end up bending and breaking the allen wrench before it will even think about moving.

I have the fuse taken out for the seatbelts because the passenger side belt works but the driver side motor sounds like its trying to turn but its stuck or something is stopping it so it just clicks when it tries to move.

I got tired of hearing it so i just kept the fuse out.
 

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ahhh ok, well mine were extremely hard to turn, I thought for sure it was going to snap the allen tool man, but I kept forcing it and it broke free and moved, if you can't budge it just get some manual seat belts out of a canadian escort, or I found out today ford taurus has the same buckle type so that'll fit the female end of the scort's belts, it'll take modifying to get them to fit for sure but nothing an every day handyman can't handle.

or get new motors? I'm too cheap to buy those stupid things he he
 

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Not long after I bought my GT, I had the same thing happen to the pass. side belt. It would not move no matter how hard I tried. It ended up that the cable had frayed and was jammed in the track. I used a flat screwdriver to spread the track apart so the latch could be manually moved back, then I left the motor unplugged until I found a replacement.
 

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Heater

Sometimes if the hoses will allow you can reverse the hoses to the heater core and it will reverse - flush itself. I don't know if it will work on an Escort though.
Thermostats can be touchy sometimes. A good thing to do is test a new one before you put it in. Boil some water in a pot and dunk it in. I tested a brand new one once and it opened up and jammed. They really need to be able to close up tight ( but not stay that way) to get any good heat. I had one that worked back and forth but still not much heat. Then I checked very close and could see it just wasn't closing up completely.
I put in one that closed up tight and got mucho heat.
As for that ' rev, rev, rev ' idle condition, one of my cars does it. Idles okay for about a minute then 'click' ..... rev, rev, rev. Like the computer kicks something in. What did you say it was? Idle Air Control Valve ? I have to check that one.
Just a couple hours ago I was sitting at a light next to an LX and I said to my wife " Look, his car is doing it too" His was auto-magic and it was making it rock back and forth as well.
 

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my car would rev rev rev before the old fuel pump went out. it did the same thing with the new fuel pump because i disconnected the air temp sensor to run rich for the upgraded air intake. i got a new pcm for that and connected that sensor and have no problems but i would say check the pressure of ur fuel pump at the fuel rail. it should be between 30-45 psi.
 
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