92 EGT - Replace Rear Rotors, Fix E-Brake | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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92 EGT - Replace Rear Rotors, Fix E-Brake

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by bs0d, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. bs0d

    bs0d New Member

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    The subject line is my task at hand.

    The rotors need replaced and they appear to have 2 phillips style screws holding it on, but they will not budge for life of me, and they're starting to strip..... any advice?

    Also, my e-brake doesn't work... and it looks like it's leaking fluid where the e-brake is on the back-side of the rotor (rear passenger side). Anyone deal with this, recommendations of how to fix?

    Finally, I couldn't get the brake cylinder to move back in after loosening the bleeder-valve... is it just stuck, or is there a 2nd screw that needs to be loosened or removed to relieve the fluid pressure to allow the cylinder to move back?


    Thanks
  2. bs0d

    bs0d New Member

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    --move to GT forum?

    Sorry, noticed I posted this in the 2nd GEN LX forum instead of GT forum...


    Any help though is still appreciated!
  3. HyBrad

    HyBrad New Member

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    As for the screws, you can use an impact screwdriver (cheap ones are $10-20)

    [​IMG]

    or you can use a flat punch or 1/4" extension. Put it over the screw and smack it a few times with a hammer. Then try to unscrew it. Repeat as necessary.

    If the screw is too rounded off to get a screwdriver on it, you can use a dremel to cut a line across the middle and grab it with a standard screwdriver.

    Personally, I use an air impact hammer with a small bit and catch the edge of the screw head and hammer on it just a little. That breaks it loose every time (and I can usually reuse the screw).

    You really don't have to put the screws back in, but the are convenient to hold the rotor in place while you're doing other work.

    As for the fluid leak, you're going to need a new caliper.

    As for the malfunctioning e-brake, it's probably the calipers, but disconnect the cables from the brake calipers and have someone operate the lever and make sure the cables move freely. If so, then new calipers should fix the issue.
  4. bs0d

    bs0d New Member

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    Thanks, I don't have an impact... I'll try smacking it around a bit, and pick up a new caliper.
  5. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    You can always drill the heads off the rotor retaining screws. If the caliper leaks at all, it needs replacing. To get the caliper piston to return, there is a 14MM headed cap bolt on the rear near the bracket for the e-brake cable. Remove that cap bolt and there is a hex keyed adjuster. Rotate that accordingly to retract the piston. Do not try to force back piston in, the e-brake is integral to the caliper and damage may occur. That hex adjuster can come out, no big deal. Just put it back in, but don't lose it.
  6. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Use a large phillips head. #3 or #4 whichever has the tightest fit. Don not use a #2. Take a pair of straight-pliers or vice-grips and attach them to the shaft of the driver. Forcing the driver against the screw-head, turn the driver using those pliers. You'll get basically as much torque as can be bore using that method. Either you'll break the screws, or strip them if you're not applying enough down-force.

    As far as getting the drum free from the hub, make sure your e-brake is released, whach with a hammer around opposite sides of the outer circumference. (may see the drum shift on the hub) If push comes to shove, you'll see (highly corroded) threaded holes near the inner circumference of the hub. With appropriately threaded, hardened bolts from the hardware store, I was able to use those holes to gradually press mine free from the hub. Prior to reassembly, I coated the hub drum-hub contact surfaces with anti-seize lubricant. Never had any issue what-so-ever removing them since.

    As far as the leak, you'll likely need wheel cylinders. But check the rubber lines for corrosion, the bleed valves for leakage, and the hose connections.

    As far as the E-Brake, it's common for the adjusters to seize after soooo much time. Simply disassemble, clean-up everything, smooth/grind/grease the hub contact sliding surfaces, check springs (likely good,) verify full range of motion for components and reassemble. Make sure the e-brake cable isn't seized in it's insulation. Make sure the rubber boots are intact and apply lubrication as a preventative measure.
  7. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Oh, and always do one side at a time. That way you can use the other side as a reference during reassembly.
  8. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    Just FYI, he's in the wrong section and has a GT with rear disc. Good info though, so thank you.
  9. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Okay thanks Lowe.
    Thought maybe he was confusing drums with rotors.

    Surprises me to read that disc brakes have the phillips as well.
  10. bs0d

    bs0d New Member

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    Thanks for all the input.
  11. bs0d

    bs0d New Member

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    Fyi - fixed by replacing caliper. Had to drill out screws on passenger side holding the rotor on. Those on the driver side did break free however.

    E-Brake still does not work though. It doesn't grab the rotor tight enough. I engaged the brake when I had the wheel off and it did compress the brakes to the rotors, but not tight enough.
  12. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    Either you need to adjust the piston retracting gear under cap bolt or the cable needs to be adjusted, maybe both.

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