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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a near perfect 91 with less than 70k on it. It still has the sticker on the a/c.... anyways, my son burned up the transmission by running it low in fluid and driving it like a race car, fluid smelled terrible and slipped like crazy. Went to pick-n-pull and pulled one out of a tracer, brought it home and put her in. Here is what i have:

In D or OD, it starts out in second and shifts to third and that is it...
I can manually shift it to 1st. It doesn't slip at all even at a high rpms. It pulls great. Just want it to start off in 1st gear when I put it in Drive or OD.

Internally I think it is good. I just don't know what I can check/test externally to fix this.
 

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Several things come to mind. One is that you could have more than one problem. I would be doing research on usenet. I'd be inspecting the cable linkage, motor mounts, and the electrical connection on the top of the transmission. I would get a schematic and see if I could test the solenoids. If I had to guess I'd say something in the valve body.

After searching the internet:
http://www.becontrols.com/ourfaqs/aodtr ... m#02185980

If the 3-4 shift valve is stuck, then the transmission will not shift into overdrive, but will not neutral out. The transmission will continue to pull in 3rd gear with no slippage.

I think i have a stuck shift valve. My aod will not shift into od. It does not slip just won't get the last gear. How can I fix this?

It is most likely a stuck 3-4 shift valve. Fixing this would involve removing the valve body and freeing the valve. This condition could also be caused by high TV pressure, but if this were the case shift timing would be effected causing your upshifts to be late. We do offer new valve bodies for the AOD if you would rather replace it than try to repair it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking valve body too.. Just don't want to dig in it.. Trying everything outside first. Cleaned all the grounds and all of the connectors on the tranny and wire harness, adjusted the kickdown cable in small increments from one end to the other, next thing I am gonna try are the accumulators.... Has anyone had any issues with accumulator sticking problems??? Please chime in...

Anybody know how to test the shift solenoids??????
 

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Sorry I dont know how to check the shift solenoids, except by putting 12 volts to them and blowing into the inlet - which means the solenoid is in your hand, not in the car. I dont recall that you can get to them without pulling the valve body out first.
My accumulators all seemed to be working fine.
Pulling the valve body apart: I worked on a benchtop with a large baking tray (havinf a raised rim) under it - to catch the tiny rubber and metal check-balls that fall out. I worked with a very good light, & took pictures of each step with a digital camera. The valve body is in layers that unbolt, with gaskets in between, & several sliding pistions inside. The Master Repair Kit had about a dozen gaskets in it, for a range of valve bodies other than my version of the F4EAT. I was Very Careful to make sure I had the same gasket as the ones I took out from between the layers of the valve body. The differences were minor, and the old gaskets sometimes didnt come off in one piece.
Mine shifted funny for a few hundred miles, then began working normally, and has been fine for about 20k miles now.
 

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denisond3 said:
Sorry I dont know how to check the shift solenoids, except by putting 12 volts to them and blowing into the inlet - which means the solenoid is in your hand, not in the car. I dont recall that you can get to them without pulling the valve body out first.
I know that, but at least you can check to see if it's an open circuit from the outside (rudimentary check anyway).
 
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