Fuel - '82 EXP Loses Fuel Pressure | Page 3 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Fuel '82 EXP Loses Fuel Pressure

Discussion in '1st Gen 1981-1990 CVH' started by rob289c, May 18, 2018.

  1. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    I ran an electric pump on a '79 Toyota pickup years ago without an OP Safety switch but seeing how easy and cheap ($12.00), there is no reason for me not to use one. I just hope the OP switch will turn out easily so I can do the job.
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  2. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    I know...this is perplexing me. I have a '67 Mustang with mechanical fuel pump and carb with no starting or drivability issues. I get gas for both cars at the same place. In fact, both cars have primarily non-ethanol 91 in them as that is what I store them with for the Winter. There should be no ethanol issues with the EXP as there was very little 87E left in the tank when I topped it off before storing it for the Winter.

    I think what I will do is blow out the supply and return lines with compressed air so if there is anything in either of them it will get blown out. Of course I will do this with the ends disconnected so I don't blow debris into the tank or carb.

    I don't have shipping info yet but I hope the pump gets here before the weekend. I'm not taking anything apart until I have everything I need.
  3. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I suspect having a fuel pump shut-off item is also one of the requirements of the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Act.
  4. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    Could be...I'm usually not one for the gov't imposing their way on me but this isn't a bad edict if it really is. I just got my FedEx shipping notification and my pump should be in my hands by the end of the day on Saturday. I hope earlier than that! I want to have it installed and road testing before the end of the day!
  5. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    Today I am going to install my electric fuel pump and oil pressure safety switch. I need to find an underhood switched 12v source. The + side of the coil is only 10v due to the resistor so that's not suitable. Is there another known source I can tap into? I prefer underhood vs looking for something under dash or cabin.

    Yesterday I dropped my fuel tank to see if there was any problem with the fuel pick up and/or filter. I suspect the filter was impeding flow. I could barely blow through it. While handling it, the filter media came off and holding it up to light I couldn't see through it. It is now unusable so I put the sender back in without a pick up filter. The electric pump comes with an inlet strainer so I'm not worried about it. While everything was disconnected I blew out the lines with compressed air to be sure they were't plugged. I fired it up and my problem is the same, maybe worse so the electric pump is going to be installed with hopes that it will solve my problem.

    So, please help me come up with a good underhood 12v switched power supply. I don't want to install a toggle switch or butcher anything. I will pick up 12v during cranking from the "I" terminal of the starter relay but need a constant 12v for running. I need both to energize the Oil Pressure Safety Switch that will in turn power the pump with the presence of oil pressure. Thank you in advance for any guidance.
  6. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    I installed my electric fuel pump today. It was a much longer job than I expected. Three trips to the hardware store may have had something to do with it! I had to fabricate a bracket to mount it and plumbed it at both ends. The wiring what the most challenging. Running the power lead to the oil pressure safety switch and the ground from the pump to the battery were pretty straight forward. Running the lead from the start switch terminal of the relay to the OP Safety switch was pretty easy.

    My challenge is finding a good switched 12v source, preferably under the hood. I ran that lead to the + battery terminal just so I could see if it would run. I'm hoping someone can steer me in the right direction on the switched source.

    The car started and ran with the new elec fuel pump. I've never seen such a fuel fuel supply line! I just ran it in the garage so I can't report on how it performed on the road. It didn't die so I think it I may have solved some of my problem. I think fuel will still boil in the lines and carb when parking after a drive but I'll have to test that later. The pump pushing fuel should help with re-starts. I am going to insulate the fuel lines that run adjacent to the head to the carb.

    I'm hoping one of you can guide me on my 12v source. Thank you in advance,,,

    Rob
  7. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    Yesterday I tidied up my wiring, and insulated the rigid, underhood fuel lines. Took it off jackstands and took it for a shakedown cruise. It performed flawlessly. Today I drove it to, and entered it in a car show that was 58 miles away It's very hot today so if there was going to be trouble, it would have been today. It ran perfectly, no stumbling and started up and ran fine after shutdowns. I didn't win any awards but heard a lot of "I used to own one, my girlfriend/wife used to own one, I used to work on them, I haven't seem one of these in X years, What is it?" It got me home too without any issues. I think I solved my problem, or at least masked it. At least I can drive it without worrying that it will leave me stranded!
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  8. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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  9. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    I have now developed an oil leak and tranny fluid leak. The tranny fluid leak looks to be coming from the shift mechanism. I am going to have to research this and figure out how it works and if there are seals that can be replaced. That will be a different thread. Thank you to all that offered suggestions and ideas on my fuel issues. This one seems to be behind me!
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  10. JOEG5982

    JOEG5982 FEOA Member

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    Could be a worn seal at the shift rod entry point. If it truly is from there, you will have to remove and disassemble the tranny. If you are absolutely certain it is tranny fluid, look carefully at the area of the CV joints as those seals are more easily replaced.
  11. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    Thanks Joe...I replaced both axles and axle seals during the restoration. When I saw the red Type F on the garage floor and driveway I thought it might be an axle seal but when I got under the car tranny fluid was leaking from the green boot that is part of the shift mechanism. If the fix includes tranny disassembly, I am going to wait to do that. I will monitor for a while to see if the leak amount changes. I have a factory repair manual and will study to see what the repair looks like. If I have to remove the tranny it will get a new clutch and input shaft bearing while out and apart. It otherwise shifts smoothly and the clutch works fine so I hope the seals swell up and stop leaking. The car sat for years before I got it.
  12. 88ESCORTV6

    88ESCORTV6 The Alpha Of The Omega

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    Just off the top of my head.... the MTX in 1982 used 80W90 Gear oil no?

    But Yes probably Mercon
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
  13. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    Both my Chilton and Factory Shop manuals call for Type F. I drained red fluid out of it when I got it which surprised me as I expected 80w90 but after looking to see what the manuals recommended (Type F), that's what I put back in. I have cases of it on hand as I also have a '67 Mustang and '80 Pinto that use Type F.
  14. JOEG5982

    JOEG5982 FEOA Member

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    F-TYPE ATF for that vintage.
  15. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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    Interestingly ATF has been used in manual transmissions since at least the early sixties.
    I was surprised to find it in a 1963 Valiant years ago, and looked it up to see that it was correct.
    The odd thing is that there didn't seem to be any internal differences in the three speed manuals that used gear oil vs. ATF.
  16. rob289c

    rob289c FEOA Member

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    A quick update: Yesterday I installed a Thrush Turbo muffler on the EXP and an exhaust tip (see pic). I wanted a little more tone than the stock muffler that was on it but didn't want the "fart can" sound. I was pleasantly surprised...it's only a hair louder than the old muffler and actually sounds decent. Not real buzzy like I thought it would. The exhaust tip isn't exactly what I was looking for but for $20, I'll get used to it. The exhaust job was fairly straightforward and it sure is nice having a welder when some creativity was needed. Exhaust Tip.jpg

    I think my oil leak is primarily from the drain plug. It's a brand new plug I got during the resto and it appears that the plastic gasket is ripped. I haven't had a chance to look at the shift rod leaks but will at some point. That spot on the floor is smaller than the engine oil spot so I'll get to that later.

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