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I installed today. It went pretty well. However, I had some confusion with the Crutchfield mounting hardware, but a quick call and they straightened it out. I really liked some of the tools and accessories I ordered from Crutchfield, especially these crimp connectors that actually you screw together. That was really convenient and the connection is solid.

The sound is fine for me. I only have the back speakers running right now, but I can hear fine. I bought the JVC KD-R370 CD Receiver which performs well for the cost. For speakers, right now have a couple of old Teac 2-Way 5111s (think 1970s, wall mount, metal casing) and they are handling things well. I like that I can point them forward as there is not a lot of reflective area back there for sound to bounce off of. The speakers in the wheel mounts pointed straight up into the cloth ceiling.

With this unit, I did notice that if left running at default settings, the sound is less than spectacular. However, there are a couple of enhancement areas and after dialing those in, the system really came alive. Certainly there are better sound systems out there, but for the cost, this works well.

For the front, eventually I will get some decent speakers for the doors. The trick of course is finding ones that are low profile enough so the window can fully open. As an alternate, I have 2 more Teacs that I can mount under the dash or something.

As far as the Metra faceplate, it looks fine although it is really plain. Most everything fit well, but as it is a tight space, getting the final fit has been a bit difficult. Fortunately, all the heating and air controls worked right away. The rear defroster button is fine too. I have the entire unit in and stable but it needs the final seating. That can happen tomorrow.

Between Rascal’s posting & other comments here and a video on YouTube that is a step by step for removing the old radio, I was able to avoid many of the problems that I am sure I would have had. I still have some cosmetic work to do with the unit but it is largely done in a 3 hour install.
 
If I were you, I would get a pair of Pioneer 6.5 speakers for the doors. Crutchfield will tell you what will fit, so you don't have to worry about not being able to crank the windows down the whole way.
 
I have these in my front doors
Gamer92 - Thanks. Those have been discontinued on Amazon, but I think I can one of the last pairs in stock and will go for it. I had a cheaper pair for the front that I tried to install a couple of years ago, but they did not fit and I did not have a decent tool set at the time to modify things. Now is a different story.
 
If I were you, I would get a pair of Pioneer 6.5 speakers for the doors. Crutchfield will tell you what will fit, so you don't have to worry about not being able to crank the windows down the whole way.
Yeah, I am going to go with a standard install as opposed to some work around. I use the front speakers the most anyway, so having a decent set there and properly installed is a better option. Those Pioneers I am sure will be more than sufficient. Thanks.
 
Gamer92 - Thanks. Those have been discontinued on Amazon, but I think I can one of the last pairs in stock and will go for it. I had a cheaper pair for the front that I tried to install a couple of years ago, but they did not fit and I did not have a decent tool set at the time to modify things. Now is a different story.
You can still buy them on Amazon though. The manufacturer just doesn't make them anymore
 
Right...I see there are a couple left in stock. I don't need the extras that Crutchfield would bundle for this part of the install, so getting just the speakers is perfect.

The rear speaker position is much more forgiving in terms of space available, so I might just stay with the boxes I have in there. I also don't use those speakers that much and most often turned the fader all the way to forward anyway.
 
Right...I see there are a couple left in stock. I don't need the extras that Crutchfield would bundle for this part of the install, so getting just the speakers is perfect.

The rear speaker position is much more forgiving in terms of space available, so I might just stay with the boxes I have in there. I also don't use those speakers that much and most often turned the fader all the way to forward anyway.
My bad, I was a bit tired and didn't see all of the first message
 
Actually, I think I am by passing those as I, a long time ago, obtained the wiring color scheme and know the R/L Rear/Front setup. The wires coming out of the new deck terminated with bare wire, so splicing and joining is going to happen. I just have to run some simple pos/neg tests to be sure all is well, but that is not an issue overall.

Did you need an adapter for the actual speaker though? A plate of some type? Or did it fit right in?

I expect to have to drill new holes in the door face to match the speaker.

Last thing - did you mount yours behind the door cover or did you have to cut that out and use the supplied grills?
 
Actually, I think I am by passing those as I, a long time ago, obtained the wiring color scheme and know the R/L Rear/Front setup. The wires coming out of the new deck terminated with bare wire, so splicing and joining is going to happen. I just have to run some simple pos/neg tests to be sure all is well, but that is not an issue overall.

Did you need an adapter for the actual speaker though? A plate of some type? Or did it fit right in?

I expect to have to drill new holes in the door face to match the speaker.

Last thing - did you mount yours behind the door cover or did you have to cut that out and use the supplied grills?
I didn't use the rectangle piece that goes over the front speaker. Only 2 screws lined up and they have held the speakers in for over a year. Rear speakers lined up perfectly with the holes. Did not need any adapters beside the wiring one
 
I plan on installing the stereo I got for Christmas in the wagon once I finish installing the shock prop rods I'm modifying to lift the front hood.

Pioneer DEH-6800BS head unit/Alpine SPE6000 Coaxials for the front/Alpine SPS517 for the rears. I was fortunate enough to find a radio face plate with the single din cutout out of a 2003 Escort. Any suggestions before I dive in or is pretty much everything needed included in this thread? I'm guessing since it isn't an aftermarket face plate the connections will be the same as the stock plate.

John
 
Pioneer DEH-6800BS head unit/Alpine SPE6000 Coaxials for the front/Alpine SPS517 for the rears. I was fortunate enough to find a radio face plate with the single din cutout out of a 2003 Escort. Any suggestions before I dive in or is pretty much everything needed included in this thread? I'm guessing since it isn't an aftermarket face plate the connections will be the same as the stock plate.

John
A couple of issues using the 03 plate. The opening is too narrow for an aftermarket radio to fit, the metal needs to be ground down. The other is that nothing will plug into the 03 plate. I didn't have the connector that firs it so had to take mine apart and solder wires directly onto the board and relocate a pin in the radio adapter harness to get both of the wires required to get the lighting to work correctly.
 
A couple of issues using the 03 plate. The opening is too narrow for an aftermarket radio to fit, the metal needs to be ground down. The other is that nothing will plug into the 03 plate. I didn't have the connector that firs it so had to take mine apart and solder wires directly onto the board and relocate a pin in the radio adapter harness to get both of the wires required to get the lighting to work correctly.
Thankfully there were a couple of people who helped me out and helped me with the wiring part. I just need to separate the plastic face from the metal backing to grind down the mount point used to mount the stock stereo. From what I can see a few minutes with a rotary tool should be all that is needed for the aftermarket mount cage to fit in.

John
 
Thankfully there were a couple of people who helped me out and helped me with the wiring part. I just need to separate the plastic face from the metal backing to grind down the mount point used to mount the stock stereo. From what I can see a few minutes with a rotary tool should be all that is needed for the aftermarket mount cage to fit in.

John
yes, that will be all which is needed. It doesn't even have to be completely flat either, it only has to be ground down enough to fit the install sleeve so check the fit as you go.
this is the way i would suggest anyway since it is difficult to secure the new install sleeve all the way around as you would be able to with the aftermarket adapters. You will understand what i refer to once you grind down the sides and test fit. By grinding only the amount necessary to make the sleeve fit you will save yourself from having the unit move side to side after install
 
yes, that will be all which is needed. It doesn't even have to be completely flat either, it only has to be ground down enough to fit the install sleeve so check the fit as you go.
this is the way i would suggest anyway since it is difficult to secure the new install sleeve all the way around as you would be able to with the aftermarket adapters. You will understand what i refer to once you grind down the sides and test fit. By grinding only the amount necessary to make the sleeve fit you will save yourself from having the unit move side to side after install
Excellent tip. Thank you Brother!:thumbsup:

John
 
Just an FYI but for those of you using a single din radio plate out of an '03 Escort, be careful with the screws that hold the metal backing plate with the plastic front plate. They're aluminum and twisting the head off is not hard. I know this because I just spent the better part of an hour trying to drill out the screw without damaging the threads.

You're going to have to grind down the mount ears for the stock OEM CD player so you'll need to separate the metal plate that holds all the HVAC control modules from the plastic plate that goes in front so that you don't grind the plastic plate.

Another FYI, the easiest way to grind the mount ears is to use a rotary tool like a dremel and grind down the ears. I had a set of diamond encrusted tips someone gave me from Harbor Freight. Now I know why they gave them to me. Pure trash. The moment the tips hit the metal surface all the diamond dust comes off and you're left with a worthless piece of metal that won't grind diddly. Also the metal shaft of one of the larger bits bent in half the moment I turned on the rotary tool. Yes the metal they use is that cheap. Took the rest of the bits and tossed them in the trash. I switched to the barrel sanders that I had laying around from my old Dremel and they worked beautifully. As 4cylinder said, you don't have to grind them all the way down. Just enough to slide whatever cage sleeve came with your headunit. I heeded his advice and it came out perfect. Snug with no wiggle. For my application I just needed to grind each side around half of what the original height was. Cage sleeve was still a hair bigger but I wiggled it in and it slipped in nice and snug with a little bit of force. Had I ground it down so that the cage slipped in with no resistance it would have been a little wobbly so be careful.

John
 
I installed my aftermarket head unit using the dash kit from Scosche that I bought on Amazon. Got everything done without any issues, except for the fact that it does not stay put in the dash. The kit keeps popping back out. I have all the wiring pulled through and back as far as I can get it but can't figure out why it won't stay in place.

I hope this makes sense and I am looking for any advice/input to solve this issue.
It's a 1999 Escort sedan if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance,
Roger.
 
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