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man that stinks thats a lot of work man.

but think, it WILL WORK! I have the same issues I put a ton of work into something and what happens, it breaks, or it doesn't work, but then again my car is still running and driving great so I must be doing something right ha ha, the 1.9 LX was a failure with the engine but that's not a huge deal to rebuild the rings and reseat the valves to make it run good again!

so it'll work, and as for the little welding splatter I wouldn't worry TOO much about it, as long as the rubber O ring seals are good and bears smooth it should be ok, if not I'll ship you my 3.8 TB that's already been ground for the intake hose you'd just need to make it to the other side again, but it's in pretty good shape.

lemme know if you need it

and keep on moddin you got skillz. oh and btw that header I made for my EGT, WOW it's so stinking nice! half throttle is like what full used to be ha ha. much better air flow.

keep em turning!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I got it done, installed it, and it works perfectly! There is a place for everything including the cruse control. I had to add a small spring but I found the perfect place to attach it. It looks like it belongs there.



My cable hookup.


Grounded down ridges.

I'm vary happy with it. The high end pulls harder all the way to the redline. The flat spot that used to be at about 3500 is almost gone, and the low end seems about the same as before. I wasn't able to port the manifold as much as I would have liked to because my dads old JC Penney brand dremel started to go out, I never understand why electric motors start to spark at the brushes and loose power when the brushes still have plenty of meat left on them and the stator is clean. The manifold is really almost the same size as the new TB minus about 2 mm. so there is an improvemnt there.
 

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YESSSSSSS! that is SEXY DUDE! so it really does pull harder and has more power in the upper end?

that is some good work Matt!

when I did that swap I noticed more torque in the mid range but the same low end and high end power, course I didn't do it all right like you did.

very very nice work!!! did that bench grinder work is that what you used to grind the ridges off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Before it would fall on its face after 5000 but now it seems good to the redline. My Scanguage trip computer says I gained about 5-7 HP. :eek: Of course, I don't take the HP numbers it spits out as true but it seems pretty accurate. One reason your 1.9 didn't respond on the top end is because the fuel maps in the computer end at 4500-5000. This causes the engine to fall completely flat at higher RPM's. The SPI has the complete fuel maps so it responds better.

I used a high speed cutter bit on the dremel to get rid of the ridges. That is probably the reason it started to die when I was porting the intake. I must have wore it out trimming the ridges and finished it off on the intake. Now I need to buy my dad a new one. The bit itself is still ready to go though.
 

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yeah I knew it had something to do with fuel cuz my A/F gauge I had hooked up would read leanish above 4500 rpm or so, at 6 grand it was in the red part of lean lol.

yeah well that's awesome it worked for you, see I knew I was missing something, if it were carburated it woulda been a screamer I'll bet.

that's good though an estimated 5 to 7 HP, that's an INCREASE worth bragging about with a home made TB swap!

yeah prolly just tired the old demel out ha ha, I love my 20 dollar harbor freight one! it's the red 4 speed one, works like a charm all the time, gets really hot after about 10 minutes on high though lol, so I rigged a hole in it so blow compressed air in while it runs :p because sabes que it takes forever to port and polish with a 1/8th inch shank!

that's amazing the bit held up so long though and still seems good eh? that's good! I should pick up a 1/4 inch shank one for my air die grinder!

anyway good work looks like it really paid off for you very nice.

and that whole project cost you what, 30 dollars or so? and a good amount of time, but it's worth it!

just like my window tint, almost done with all of it and it looks very good for me being a first timer at tint :D

later on Matt!

btw I wanna hear gas mileage #'s when you get em! you know what it was about before?
 

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madmatt2024 said:
Yes, my cat is in about the same place as yours but there is no header for my car or yours that uses the stock cat except for the ultra rare Focus Central shorty header and then that is only for the SPI. They are virtually impossible to find.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Exha ... ccessories

this is for a 1.9 but i'm pretty sure u can use that one. it's a 4 into 1 header which is good for high range torque and should take care of that nasty flat spot. i only found 4-2-1 headers for urs which only gives mid range torque so ur gonna have to relocate ur cat with either one. but lucky for me i could just not use the down pipe and hook it up to my stock cat. i gotsta start savin. GOTSTA CUZ IT'S GANK-STUH!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Have you actually measured how long it is!? The collector on that header is at least 6" lower than the one on the stock manifold. That means the stock cat is going to be dragging on the ground if its hooked up to that.
 

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That looks awesome man! Great work.
 

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ummm, juggalo pretty much if you want a header on a 1.9 you have to relocate the cat. there is the focus shorty exceptions but pretty much header on 1.9 = break out the cut off wheel and welder boys.

you know the more I look at a 1.9 the more I think they wanted it to be a restricted slow engine :\ the cat being right there, poor flowing head, small TB and MAF housing. meh idk.

but still that's some awesome work Matt looking over all the pics again, it's beastly!
 

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if the header doesn't work like i want it to then i'll relocate the cat. but seriously, use aftermarket 4 into 1 headers for that flat spot. i already have the bigger MAF sensor housing and when i swap in the 1.9 HO head i'll either do the fab work like u did to that TB or use the 2.0 spi TB but still need to figure out where i'm mounting my cables. maybe i could mount my cable mounting bracket to the firewall and go from there.
 

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juggalo I have the firewall mounted throttle cable bracket for the 3.8 swap, lemme know if you need it I still got it intact worked good.

yeah to get a header gonna have to move that cat which is not hard to do with some harbor freight tools.
 

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if it all will work with a kick down cable then hold onto that. i need to get the head first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Your going to need to mod the throttle cable connection like mine of you want any chance of a kickdown cable fitting on a HO throttle body.

Why would you build an automatic Escort anyway!? To much of a pansy to do the 5 speed swap? The auto trans on these cars is weak and will blow easily with power. You will easily gain 2 sec in the 1/4 mile and 5 MPG with a manual swap. If you can even manage to get an auto Escort to run the same 1/4 mile as a manual then you are vary lucky.
 

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yeah I have to agree with Matt here like I said the best swap you can do is a manual swap cuz escort auto's are not the best they suck up tons of your HP and they are pretty weak. if you don't push it to the limits all the time it might be ok but if you wanna up the power a lot that trans won't take it for long. I just know the 5 speeds are the way to go if you want a fun, economical scort. and yeah the manuals get at least 5 mpg better, I can get 40 mpg in my LX 1.9 if I really drive her easy and more if I did a few more mods.

idk juggalo I think your best bet is to just make the scort a regular daily driver and fix your honda to be the fast one. idk dude
 

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i have only drivin a manual once and everytime i'd shift from 2nd to third i'd go right back into 1st. also, i don't wanna deal with replacing the clutch. joel, i know u said that doesn't happen offten but i'd rather stick with an automatic. for the tranny to bust is more on the lines that people dont check their fluids and adjust the line pressure on the kickdown cable. when u adjust the line pressure, ur adjusting the shifting points in the tranny. and for those of u who say u can't manually shift in an auto, i call BS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
juggalo said:
i have only drivin a manual once and everytime i'd shift from 2nd to third i'd go right back into 1st.
That's lack of expirance on your part. One month driving stick and you won't have that problem.

juggalo said:
i don't wanna deal with replacing the clutch.
Better than replacing a transmission. I have heard of these automatics lasting about the same as a clutch. Do you even have an axillary cooler on the tranny? You are one of the biggest pansies I have seen.

You won't get much performance help on this forum once you tell people your auto. Nobody on this forum has built an automatic car (for a reason) so anything that has to do with the kick down cable you will have to come up you yourself. The first advice everybody is going to give you is do a manual swap.

I love my manual wagon. I get 38+ MPG on the highway

Also, why are you bring this up in my thread? I would like it to stay somewhat on topic.
 

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also escortfocus.com has an automatic control unit to keep the torque converter locked up at high speeds to give more MPG. for the 98+ scorts, they have a shift improver to adjust the line pressure since that is controlled by the PCM.
 

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don't call me a pansie. the only pansie i see is the one talkin shit. and when i do say automatic, yall r dumbfounded and act like performance is gonna be different. have u had any problems with an auto?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
juggalo said:
don't call me a pansie. the only pansie i see is the one talkin ****. and when i do say automatic, yall r dumbfounded and act like performance is gonna be different. have u had any problems with an auto?
At least I'm not afraid of a motor swap. I see you avoiding it at all costs even if it means more work and less gain.

Heck yeah, performance is gonna be different with an auto. You think having one less gear, greater drive train power loss, and higher drive ratio isn't going to yield different (worse) performance? dream on.

I haven't ever had problems with an auto because I was never dumb enough to buy one. I had a friend with an automatic 93 wagon, at 180K it was on its 2nd trans and that one was already shifting hard. That averages out to about a 110K mile life span. Another person I knew had the auto trans go out on an Escort wagon. Look around on Google, you can find tons of cases of Escorts with bad auto trannys. If you service it and drive like a normal person it may provide good service life but the moment you start racing and building power its toast. Consider yourself lucky if it makes it to 120K, about the same life as a clutch.

$2500 for a new trans or $600 for a clutch job? the choice is obvious. When you consider the better gas mileage the choice is ever easier.

This forum is full of good advice and one of the biggest pieces is to manual swap. When you start acting like your auto is better than a manual and then expect people to tell you how to mod it you WILL get slammed.

Escort92Man told me you were dense and boy was he right.
 

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i'm not affraid of doin a motor swap. i don't have the money! my motor and tranny r origional and at a little over 160k. ur homeboy didn't know how to adjust things and he probally didn't change his fluids like he's supposed to do. i'm not gonna be like everyone else and run the same things. people race in automatics ALL THE TIME! u and joel seem to be the only ones slammin on me about my car so as far as i'm concerned, do not give me anymore advice or post on my threads. i maybe slow, but i'm not retarded.
 
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