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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does any one know if this has been attempted or done yet?Just for info wise PS Pump is 4 groove/alternator is 5/2nd gen udp is 6 groove.i have a 6 groove pulley for the alternator but the PS pump and the iddler is my issue.Any help will be greatful.
 

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Some 1st gens had 6 groove alternator pulleys. I know; I own one. They were usually on stuff with A/C, rear defroster, and other electric-heavy stuffs. You'd need a 6 rib 1st gen main pulley for all that to work, plus I'm pretty sure the idler won't mount properly. Why do you want to switch to a 2nd gen belt system...for the UDP? Personally I wouldn't underdrive the 1st gen alternator, and the power steering pump definitely needs to stay where it is, otherwise you should just disconnect it because it won't be helping much. And, pulley mods are good for very little, to no power gain...not worth it unless you're racing and need every last pony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes for the udp that has the 36-1 trigger wheel in it.I can machine anything i want so there is no limitation to things that most people seem unthinkable to become a reality.But i am switching to the EDIS system for my megasquirt.Just want higher resolution and better accuracy for my boosted scort.Another question is there a better way to lower my oil pressure to the turbo without smashing the line like i see most writeups done?and if anyone has a link they can pm me for How to upload pics here i anexious to show u guys my scort project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I called Bloush Performance today and they say not to restrict the IHI I was like i am pushing to much oil Pressure to it now,the guy was still like Don't Restrict To The IHI"s so i was like ok thanks CLICK! :eek: WTF no help and rude as helL!Darn places like that need not be in Bizz at all!Hey was not there a way to do rear disc on our 1 st gens? For the life of me i can't find it in search. :mad:
 

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Well, what kind of PSI are you getting? I'd say an absolute max of 50 psi to it. At the pressure fitting you can probably machine a fitting that had a smaller orifice in it. Start small, and see what kind of psi you get. What size hose are you running to the turbo, anyway? Something smaller than it will suffice.

The best method for finding rear discs is to source them from a Contour, and create custom brackets. Aside from that, you'll have to look to the UK. I know www.burtonpower.com has rear disc conversion kits; to say they're expensive is a bit of an understatement.
 

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Vhturbo11 said:
yes for the udp that has the 36-1 trigger wheel in it.I can machine anything i want so there is no limitation to things that most people seem unthinkable to become a reality.But i am switching to the EDIS system for my megasquirt.Just want higher resolution and better accuracy for my boosted scort.Another question is there a better way to lower my oil pressure to the turbo without smashing the line like i see most writeups done?and if anyone has a link they can pm me for How to upload pics here i anexious to show u guys my scort project.
If you got access to a machine shop, why not just machine the 36-1 notches into the stock crank pulley. I saw one MS project where the guy just took a file to his stock pulley and filed in his own notches. Total backyard grease-monkey but it worked. Or weld one to the pulley. I have one with a 60-2 wheel welded one.
 

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I picked up a TEC-II off eBay a fews year back and it uses a 60-2 wheel. All I did was buy a cheap laser cut 60-2 wheel off eBay (again) in-larged the opening then welded it to the stock pulley. Very simply compared to switching out to the 2nd gen stuff. Of coarse you would get to use the round belt adjustable cam sprocket then.

Just a little secret, I'm currently work on a square tooth solution but more to come on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes cow you are right about higher resoluton.on the other hand MS would have issues while cranking,ie:longer crank before starting.We just started machining out the center of a 36-1 wheel in prep to tigging it to the front outer edge of my stock steel pulley today and i will be using the round tooth timing gear that i got in the UDP deal from a member on the site...now will the belt and adjustible cam gear for the 2nd gens work???may be a trip to my friends at autozne for belt lenght comparision.When i get home this weekend i will be uploading pics for u guys...i can help out with you that have MS-II systems,i have a mildl tune up to 7psi that will work as a building base with TFI that may get some started.just have to adjust for you injectors as mine are 450cc/43.9lb ers.So if any one can shoot me a link for uploading i would apreciate it.like i said im on vacation/not lazy/but a PC Phone can only do so much so fast.lol
 

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You can use a 2nd gen timing pulley on the cam, but you'll run into problems with the water pump one. Be sure you have a late model (88.5-90) water pump to begin with, as the shaft diameter is a little larger than earlier years, remove the square tooth pulley, and press on the round tooth, 2nd gen one. Problem solved for that. I agree with switching to a round-tooth belt. They seem to be more stable at high rpm, as well as longer lasting. I don't know why Ford used square tooth when round-tooth belts already existed by the time the CVH debuted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

Like to load them all but will do it somewhere else...looks bad right now till bodywork.
Where can i put my photos of my progress without some one getting,pis'd of them getting erased
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:oops:
Why Yes,yes it is.......seems as Ford idea of making sure water does not get in failed!1 the expanding glue that holds the inner and the outer skin of the roof is of a sponge type after it cures and the seal sealer the put in the drip edge alowed water in and the panel bond just soaked it right up.Which is the reason i had to cut-out about 14inches length wise and about 3 inches height wise,so unitll next week it will be covered with the 100mph tape..lol want more pics?


Before we started........

after we stoped..........
 
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