1st gen escort performance | Page 9 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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1st gen escort performance

Discussion in '1st Gen 1981-1990 CVH' started by gt19ho, Sep 15, 2004.

  1. Jade Flacon

    Jade Flacon Guest

    i do not want to be associated with drugs illegal activity or porn.
    I will be removing all most posts and will no longer post here.
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 4, 2018
  2. 88ESCORTV6

    88ESCORTV6 The Alpha Of The Omega

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    No one talked about it since MSI Ignition is problem prone keep your original coil with you in your car cloves box you will need it some day.
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  3. 87XR3nOhio

    87XR3nOhio FEOA Member

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    There is alot of threads and posts. Way too much to go thru. I'm new here and interested in engine swapping my car. I seen the post where it says 2.3 and 3.0 will bolt up to factory trans. Then I read another 1 that says the 3.0 won't work. Anyone have experience and knowledge
  4. 88ESCORTV6

    88ESCORTV6 The Alpha Of The Omega

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    the 3.0 liter 5 speed you need change bell housing on it auto trans wont work unless you use engine and trans.
  5. 88ESCORTV6

    88ESCORTV6 The Alpha Of The Omega

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    the 2.3liter HSC/HSO fit right the the 2.3 liter SOHC fit's on trans but is a longer engine and major mods is needed on passenger shock tower and inner frame.
  6. 87XR3nOhio

    87XR3nOhio FEOA Member

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    Thanks. I got an 87 1.9 HO with a 5 speed. My friend has a Taurus with a 3.0. I've been kicking the idea of old meets new. But that's alot of money and fab. I like the new 2.3 AWD 6 spd. But that's about 10,000+ at a wrecked auction. Any idea about the RWD 1's from overseas
  7. 88ESCORTV6

    88ESCORTV6 The Alpha Of The Omega

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    Keep your GT. You can't use the taurus engine unless you use the ford tempo topaz front engine cover. Automatic Taurus tranny is too big unless its 5 speed manual.
  8. 87XR3nOhio

    87XR3nOhio FEOA Member

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    I wanna keep it 5 speed. It's not a GT, it's an X R 3 hahahaha.
  9. austin86

    austin86 That nut who spends way to much on a escort.

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    Anther thing to add. UK adjustable cam gears should work on our escorts if you get a UK crank sprocket and water pump pulley as the teeth on the UK pulleys are round and the US pulleys are square.
    Ford also made one for our US escorts. I'll post the part number later one I find the part among all my stuff.

    Id did forget to mention. The timing marks are different for a 1.6l vs a 1.9l. Once I find my cam pully I'll post the difference too.

    EDIT:
    The PN is m-6256-a111
    View attachment 48050 View attachment 48052 View attachment 48054
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2019
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  10. 83wagon

    83wagon FEOA Member

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    Okay, first, I really do appreciate this forum. It's a wealth of knowledge! BUT (all due respect, seriously)...there is sooooo much that it is very hard to find certain answers, even when doing your best to find them. Also, I don't know if it's just me, I'm not filtering results at all, but even the most straightforward search terms seem to yield "no results" and I cannot figure how to enter the right words to find things on here. All this is more to say that I have tried to search for things and look through as many posts as I reasonably can without spending hours on hours. What I do stumble across I am very appreciative of, and the pinned posts have helped.

    If someone is willing to help me (even just links within the forum or better search terms/tips) I am curious on the performance modifications that can be done for the CARBURETED 1.6L model as it seems that most content is for CFI and HO motors. I've seen on here from couple different posts (at least that I've found, haha), austin86 included, that the 1.6L is sometimes worth keeping as it shares some potential options with the UK version? I'm realistically looking to at least get over the 100 hp mark but anything helps when you're starting at 64

    Like I said, this forum is amazing, just overwhelming at times, thanks for any help!
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  11. 1982 EXPert

    1982 EXPert FEOA Member

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    83wagon what's your engine VIN digit? Yours being carbureted it should be "2" or "4"
    2: Base 1.6 - .229 cam, 8.5:1 compression, 32/32 carb, cast manifold, single snorkel air box
    4: HO 1.6 - .240 cam, 9.0:1 compression, 32/34 carb, headers, (often) dual snorkel air box

    MISCELANEOUS:
    If you haven't done the following you should, very important supporting mods.....

    Manual choke conversion, you'll want it, you deserve it, the electric chokes are terrible. Usually the more you use them the better they work but they still have issues, some times they never open (making you run too rich down the road) and some times they never close (making for VERY hard starts).

    Electric fuel pump, for sake of your motor bypass the mechanical pump, should it fail gasoline will thin out your motor oil before you can save it.

    Cooling improvements, there's a few little things you'll want across all 80s CVH's to do especially for those with EXPs and LN7s. The 1.6s run hot for emissions, factory thermostat is about 210F and fans turn on at 220F - both are way too high. Install a fan relay-bypass switch and change your thermostat to 185-195 if you only drive in the summer (EXPs & LN7s need closer to 185 as less air reaches the radiator).

    CAMS:
    First thing you want to do regardless of whichever 1.6 you have is to remove the camshaft and inspect both it and the lifters. Any flat-tappet CVH will have a worn out cam and bad lifters by 100k miles if not sooner, one of the lobes for cylinder 3 or 4 has a tendency to ground down much faster than the others so look over them carefully.

    While you're replacing the cam you can consider your cam options. Stock-spec cams can be had off eBay for $20-$60, lifters are what's expensive..... If you have a good budget the thing to do is to buy a performance cam, there's some US vendors but most are in the UK. Keep in mind a 0.500"+ cam won't be to your liking on the street so chose wisely with your carb(s) and porting in mind, email the vendor and ask which is best for your setup & needs - they should know.

    With the base motor you can put in a HO cam but won't notice much/any difference but being it has more lift it will last longer over time.

    If you can, switch over to an adjustable/vernier cam sprocket. With stock cams it usually won't make much difference but recently we've found a crank sprocket with a crooked key slot - imagine how bad the timing might have been! But any performance cam should really have a vernier cam to ensure you're getting the most out of it. The issue is no one makes one for our square-tooth belts, only round-tooth so you have to retrofit a different water pump. I'm still researching this topic, hopefully I'll has some good news to share this summer when I do some experimenting.....

    FUEL & IGNITION:
    If you have the HO you can run some 91 octane and advance the base ignition timing for some decent gains. You can do the same with the normal 1.6 but won't have as much gain. Remember if you hear any pinging you have to turn it back down.

    EXHAUST:
    You can also switch to a header but it's a lengthy and spendy procedure as it uses a different exhaust system and can't be installed or removed from the engine bay without removing the engine or radiator.
    If you're using a 1.9 EFI HO header you need to remove even more parts to get it on/off. The header will grant you more top end, you won't notice much but after a performance cam and better carb(s) it will make a big difference.

    CARBURETION:
    Next step before pulling the head off would be switching to a better carb. If you have a normal 1.6 you can switch to a HO or 1.9 carb for a little more intake charge when the secondary opens up but without a HO or better cam AND header you won't notice. But watch for jetting, these factory carbs come with MANY different jet sets, best bet is to pull the jets out of your old carb and put them into the new one. That way you can help ensure you're not going to be too lean or too rich. Also be aware that the HO carbs usually don't have a fuel vent/return line.

    Some aftermarket carbs can be fitted but not many. There's a Weber 32/36 out there that bolts in fine but needs a special air box/filter and special throttle linkage. I have no idea what the jets should be because the carb is aimed more at other European 4 cylinders.

    With special intake manifolds you can switch to a pair of 2-barrel Webers. One is a downdraft and one is a sidedraft, I think both come in 38-44mm sizes. Remember bigger isn't always better, if you go for the big ones you need a serious race engine.

    The last common option is bike carbs, with a good mix of fair fuel economy and great performance (fuel economy probably isn't as good as stock though) they're great but need a custom manifold, vacuum distribution tube, custom air box/filter, and custom throttle linkage. All of which however can be had from DanSTEngineering in the UK, they're very nice guys if you have any questions. 34-38mm throats are what you want, again they can help you better choose.

    CARB SPACERS:
    This is an area I haven't been able to experiment with yet but your welcome to it if you can. Each type of carb has a unique spacer/insulator under it:
    The base model is just the plastic spacer
    The HO has a short steel "funnel" under one of the throat openings
    The 1.9 has a long steel "funnel" under one of the throat openings

    The funnels are said to act as velocity stacks and/or intake distributors. The funnels help direct the charge into the main gally of the manifold, and the 1.9 funnel also helps distribute the primary or secondary charge equally across the 4 runners - which could make a big improvement as runners 1 & 4 are longer than the middle runners making the outer cylinders run lean. This is evident when you remove the original head off a 100k mile motor, you'll see valve discoloration on the outer cylinders - the 1.9 CFIs have this issue as well.
    Another solution would be to add baffles/deflectors directly under the carb. Many single-carb V8s get this mod and they fine tune it by reading the air/fuel ratio of each exhaust runner.

    INTAKE:
    This is where you need to get creative, whether you have a stock motor or have made decent improvements already the carb air box is pretty bad. I've rebuilt my base 1.6 up to a 1.6 HO but with 8.5:1 compression and the base model airbox, when it's cold outside it LOVES to rev! But when it's warm out getting past 3500rpm isn't too easy. In my EXP air doesn't get into the engine bay very well so everything under the hood is pretty hot, and with the tight airbox being right over the valve cover and its snorkel being right over the radiator and exhaust it only draws hot air. The HO airbox utilizes two snorkels for a colder intake charge, the second snorkel runs between the battery and distributor to the radiator support collecting much cooler air. Some time I'll do a driving comparison between the two, it might not make much difference on an Escort but it should be a big difference on the EXP/LN7.

    INTAKE MANIFOLD:
    If you want to keep a (semi) stock appearance you can switch from a 1.6 carb intake manifold to a 1.9 carb intake manifold for more intake volume, then you can port match your head's intake to match the 1.9 intake runners. That's a very decent low-risk porting job that anyone can do, but you won't see much benefit without switching to a HO, 1.9, or 32/36 Weber carb because high volume only benefits you with high revs.

    Be aware that it will start a little harder though because the larger runners have more surface area for fuel to cling to when starting cold.

    HEAD:
    One CVH tuner in the UK said that blending the valve seats & ports together then reshaping the valves in the interest of flow adds 10hp to base model 1.6 heads over there, that's something anyone can do with a steady hand with low risk. If he wasn't exaggerating that's incredible.

    Further porting can be done all the way down each intake port but I'm no expert on it. Just know that you can only port so much and if untrained it's easy to hurt your performance. AND porting does no good if your intake manifold doesn't match.

    Porting exhaust ports of the 1.6s is advised against because they're huge - bigger than the 1.9 EFI HO, that says it all...... And I'm not sure how far they could be port-matched to the header, but there's a difference between the port size and the header interior diameter.

    But polishing the exhaust ports and combustion chambers can make a difference.
    The combustion chambers are CNC'ed in the interest of even, controlled combustion but the ridges that remain attract carbon like you wouldn't believe - especially in carbureted motors where the air/fuel ratio isn't always well-controlled. Polishing the CC is some times advised against as fuel forms droplets on polished surfaces, but it might be worth the risk so carbon doesn't accumulate slowly raising compression over time.
    But exhaust shouldn't have a fuel charge so you can polish the exhaust ports risk free, then carbon can't stick to the ports restricting flow.

    Bigger valves can some times be fitted, but that's a fair bit of money and prevents you from doing so in the future should you run out of useable seat material and need new seats pressed in. With bigger valves you'd need porting for sure, but bigger valves change your power curve and some actually hurt performance at certain lifts so keep that in mind.

    You can also of course have the head shaved, they can be shaved down to the point where the crescent indentations around the mating surface disappear - this is around 0.100" on a fresh head. This increases your compression ratio by a full point and then some depending on which pistons and displacement you have. Jack Roush shaved a 1.6 head on a turbo CVH for better combustion, as tempting as it now sounds to shave a head there are a few things to keep in mind:
    1. You need a vernier cam, which as I mentioned earlier is hard to get. When you shave a head you retard your cam timing, shaving a CVH head to its limits retards the timing about 4 degrees.
    2. If you shave a head to it's limit you can't do it again, should your motor overheat and warp the head it's junk since you can't shave it flush anymore.
    You can also shave the block's deck but it has all the same negative affects.

    There's some stuff you can do with your engine's internals but it's nothing I have good experience with so we'll leave my reply at this.
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2020
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  12. Sketch

    Sketch You Tube Tuner-vana

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    The xr4ti only has a t3 garret turbo
  13. Sketch

    Sketch You Tube Tuner-vana

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    If you use the turbo coupe vam you need injectors and ecu. You will also need to repin your ecu harness.
  14. austin86

    austin86 That nut who spends way to much on a escort.

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    I been doing som looking on throttle bodies. From what Im seeing the early 3.8l TB are the same size as an HO TB.
  15. 1982 EXPert

    1982 EXPert FEOA Member

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    I believe you are right, the old 3.8 TB isn't much bigger (if any), also worth noting that the 1.9 EFI HO and 1.6T throttle bodies are the same size.

    So the one to get is BBK's 3.8L throttle body as it's 56mm across. It takes some modifying but the few people that I've met that use it highly recommend it on the N/A cars, so imagine the improvement under boost :)
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  16. austin86

    austin86 That nut who spends way to much on a escort.

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    I thought about getting the bbk. But I can't justify the price for a throttle body. Maybe some day after the car is up and running.
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