Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by dirtking, Nov 12, 2019.
I also noticed that the absolute throttle position was at 20% sitting at an idle. Is that normal?
The short term fuel trims sound to be ok. They do bounce back and fourth. If it was like 20 to 25.0 that would be a indication of the computer compensating for something wrong.
Concentrate more on the long-term fuel trims, which will stabilize the more you drive the car. Actual fuel trim is the sum of the long+short term trims, and the ECU keeps a table of trims based on speed range and throttle position, IIRC. After resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery, the long term trims start out at zero, then get adjusted according to the trend of the short term trims in order to minimize the fluctuation of the short term trims at each speed. All 3 of my Escorts ran in the +5 to +15% lt trims due to minor air leaks.
Keep an eye on the engine temp. Make sure it gets up to operating temperature (190-195) within 5 miles after a cold start. It could run consistently cool (170) without you noticing it on the temp gauge due to a bad thermostat, leaky thermostat gasket or (sometimes) a bad bypass check ball in the thermostat housing.
Ok I will watch that stuff. Hopefully the miles per gallon come up. Still seems like there is a miss or something slightly off. With the code reader I will try to narrow it down to an rpm range
Probably close enough. I checked 4 different vehicles and the numbers were in the low single digits to around 20%
Ok seemed kind of odd that it was that high.
I replace the pcv valve and the hoses related to it. So far the code has not returned yet. I still seem to have a stutter/ miss through the rpm range, but no check engine light. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Anybody have any other ideas?
How’s the transmission fluid? Dirty ? If it is I would replace filter and put new fluid .
Also a new air filter. It doesn’t look terrible but isn’t brand new either. I have that on my list to do. Best fuel mileage I have had so far is 28.
Looking up the transmission filter and it lists a shallow and deep pan. Do you guys know the dimensions to tell the difference?
There is no deep pan . The bar that bolts in wouldn’t if the pan was larger. I never understood why they ask that.
ok thank you for all the help! What oil do you recommend?
Where ever u can get the best deal.
Ok thank you!
This exact issue happens on my 99. I've had a 97 manual for 20 years. So when I rescued this little 99 with the at the little bumps in and out have been driving me crazy thinking it's slipping(trans juice was in dire condition when I got it). Hopefully when you change that trans filter you can get the support bar out of the way, mines rusted in place which makes getting the pan off a rather sporty bit of wrenching.
And I've been getting the IAC code too. Going to see if a new pcv fixes it.
Gotta love weird "common" problems!
Try putting the old PCV back in if you have it. I know this is a 3g, but 2g's are SUPER picky about pcv brand. It's basically a pre determined vacuum leak/EGR mix.
My 91 won't idle with an AutoZone or advance brand pcv. Like period.
Lop, lop, stall.....
you can drop the pan without removing the bar
you'll just have to jack the trans up a bit and use a small wrench for 3-4 of the pan bolts, takes a bit longer but it can be done
Or you can devote a 3 day weekend to getting the front-to-rear support bar removed. I did it with my oxy-acetylene torch, and a lot of time (a desperate weekend).
I have changed the transmission filter and fluid. I have put about 100 miles on it since then and I still have the stutter/miss. Seems to be at about 3000rpm. Also haven’t have the p1506 code come on until tonight. Might have to just get the new IAC valve.
I will have to look and see if I have the old PCV valve. I believe I threw it away.
Anybody else have any other ideas? These cars pretty noise for valve train? Seems pretty noisy even with a new rebuilt head.
Thanks for all the help and advice
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