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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We rebuilt the brakes on my wife's 1998 Ford Escort ZX2.

Replaced the calipers, hoses, rotors, and pads, we are going to replace the master cylinder but it took a week to get it in and I'm holding off until we can solve this problem.

We also rebuilt the rear brake assembly but there is no issue with them.

When I'm driving and turn the steering wheel there is an odd scrunching sound from the left (driver's side) front wheel.

It's most pronounced when I steer left and return to straight. I don't think there is any noise when I steer to the right or return to center, if there is, it's so quiet I can't hear it.

It's noticeable but not horribly loud.

It's an odd sound, hard to describe, more of a scrunching sound then any thing else.

The steering wheel doesn't vibrate and the car doesn't pull to either side on a straight level road when I take my hands off the steering wheel and the car doesn't pull to either side with any degree of breaking.

Any ideas where to start looking and what to check first?

The noise was not there before we rebuilt the brakes.

I've tried several different search terms but came up ry.

Thank you
Jeff Green
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
We rebuilt the brakes on my wife's 1998 Ford Escort ZX2.

Replaced the calipers, hoses, rotors, and pads, we are going to replace the master cylinder but it took a week to get it in and I'm holding off until we can solve this problem.

We also rebuilt the rear brake assembly but there is no issue with them.

When I'm driving and turn the steering wheel there is an odd scrunching sound from the left (driver's side) front wheel.

It's most pronounced when I steer left and return to straight. I don't think there is any noise when I steer to the right or return to center, if there is, it's so quiet I can't hear it.

It's noticeable but not horribly loud.

It's an odd sound, hard to describe, more of a scrunching sound then any thing else.

The steering wheel doesn't vibrate and the car doesn't pull to either side on a straight level road when I take my hands off the steering wheel and the car doesn't pull to either side with any degree of breaking.

Any ideas where to start looking and what to check first?

The noise was not there before we rebuilt the brakes.

I've tried several different search terms but came up ry.

Thank you
Jeff Green
I swapped fixing a computer for changing the ball joints and tie rods, problem solved.
I suspect the original owner was ripped of by a Ford dealer because she had the complete service records and they show an annual lube with every 3rd oil change.

I paid wholesale for the parts and he did the work for free and I repaired his business desk top PC.

It took us about the same time to finish. He had more viruses and malware then a Tijuana bordello.
I ended up coping his data, wiping the hard drive, reinstalling the OS and all his software, importing the data and adding a good Anti-V program.

My wife treated us to some excellent pizza when we were finished.

Some days you're the bug and others the windshield.

Now another question, the dealer says they changed the ATF fluid and filter every 30,K or so. Is there any way to tell how old ATF fluid is? It looks red and has no scent of burned. I've read that replacing the AFT fluid in a car that has been negelected is a bad idea and will lead to certain transmission failure.
 

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If the fluid is BRIGHT red, I would say servicing has been done. If it is more Red Wine colored, it is a bit older. if it is deep crimson, I would say no servicing has been done.

Changing fluid and filter on a severely neglected transmission does cause issues, as the fresh fluid (and therefore fresh detergents) usually knock the old crusty contamination loose, circulating it back through the system and causing blockages/increased wear. It will also do a number to sealing surfaces as the gaskets that should have been leaking weren't (due to residue build-up). Once the detergents due their job, all heck (and gunk) breaks loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the fluid is BRIGHT red, I would say servicing has been done. If it is more Red Wine colored, it is a bit older. if it is deep crimson, I would say no servicing has been done.

Changing fluid and filter on a severely neglected transmission does cause issues, as the fresh fluid (and therefore fresh detergents) usually knock the old crusty contamination loose, circulating it back through the system and causing blockages/increased wear. It will also do a number to sealing surfaces as the gaskets that should have been leaking weren't (due to residue build-up). Once the detergents due their job, all heck (and gunk) breaks loose.
Sorry about the long delay in getting back to you.
Thank you for the advice.

My family got hit by the flu. The doc checked us for COVID and we didn't have it.
This flu hit me a lot harder then ever before.

The fluid is bright red so I think we are fine.

A guy at work is a true gear head and has a lift to access the underside.
We'll get the filter and fluid changed next weekend.

Now to deal with the oik filter on our 2002 Volvo S60.
Why Volvo decided to require one to drop the splash guard to do a simple oil change is beyond me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
At least it's NOT a modern Toyota truck............:mad:
While off topic, I have a chance to purchase a 2018 Toyota Tacoma for a very good price. A guy from England was just notified his work visa expires December 31 at midnight.
He was 'dating' an underage girl and the feds dropped a hammer on him.

So, what exactly is wrong with modern Toyota Trucks?
 

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Nothing really, except the oil filter is either up top on the engine or down low/forward, covered by both a skidplate and a plastic tray. Plus, Toyota uses a special socket for their filter housings (if you live up North, the housing WILL start to corrode and become very tough to get off).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nothing really, except the oil filter is either up top on the engine or down low/forward, covered by both a skidplate and a plastic tray. Plus, Toyota uses a special socket for their filter housings (if you live up North, the housing WILL start to corrode and become very tough to get off).
The ZX2 engine's oil filter is between the engine and firewall and Ford clearly expected you to get to it from below. You have to remove the windshield wash fluid container and and fight. I use K&N filters with a 1" "nut" on top and a Kobalt ratchet wrench. It's still a PITA.

Would it help to spray paint the Toyata skid plate and use a high quality molly grease on the screws/bolts that hold it in place? My father used molly grease on his fishing boat for nuts and bolts that got wet. [I'd have replaced the steel hardware with stainless or brass/bronze]
 

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I use Nickel Anti-Seize (Graphite and Copper Anti-Seize will work just as well) on anything I take apart that is threaded. It makes it not only go back together smoothly, but also allows for easier future removal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I use Nickel Anti-Seize (Graphite and Copper Anti-Seize will work just as well) on anything I take apart that is threaded. It makes it not only go back together smoothly, but also allows for easier future removal.
Will this work on oxygen sensors?
It took me almost a day to change one in my sisters car, and it was easy to get to!
 

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Will this work on oxygen sensors?
It took me almost a day to change one in my sisters car, and it was easy to get to!
Most O2 sensors already have it pre-applied to the threads or include a small tube of it. It helps to an extent but the real question is: Will it still be there when the sensor needs to be replaced again in 10 years?
 

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most if not all oxygen sensors come with antisieze either on the threads already or in a small packet. wont hurt it at all. be lucky for it to stay there for longer than a few years.
 
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