Discussion in 'Forced Induction & Nitrous' started by slammed escort 95, May 20, 2014.
^ i agree. Tuning is key to a great running engine.
Yup, increasing CR is just like increasing boost.
As long as you do not overboost with the FMU you will be fine. Installing a wide band or even a narrow band AFR gauge would be a really good idea.
i have built motors which high boost and high compression just need the right fuel and tune or lower boost and really high boost 50psi... but i would say on a street car 9:5:1 and 8-10psi is safe for sure either on 91 octane or e-85... e-85 would be there better option if you go 10:5:1 and 15psi.... just build the motor all forged and have a kick ass tune and all is golden pony boy!
The easiest and cheapest modification you can install to tune your engine is an Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator. with a Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge so you can fine tune to the specific ratio... Also for higher boost a Fuel-Management-Unit will do the trick and work with you FPR to get you right where you need to be.
hey man i know you probably get tired of me asking stupid questions all the time but I was wondering if I do the 2.0 head swap before im ready to install the turbo will my car still run I know it lowers the compression quite a bit so didn't know if I need to wait until I have everything for the turbo before the head swap
No it won't run
k thought that would be the case thanks
hey man so I got my 2.0 spi head today with the intake mani and fuel rail out of a 97 and noticed the fuel rail only has 1 fuel line running to the fuel rail and the 1.9 had two so what do I do with the extra line im sure its a return line
Then its not a 97 rail. 97 was the only year for return fuel system (3rd gen)
yea I think I may have gotten a 98 so can I still use the head and go back and get the fuel rail off the 97 and put it on
Just use your 1.9L rail.
Edit: it wont fit the 2.0L anyway.
I had to use it for the core on my new one I will just go back and swap it out
should I use a head bolt set for the 1.9 or a 2.0
I'm pretty sure they r both the same size bolts
k sounds good got my spi head back today from the machine shop pressure check and leak test are good and had it milled just enough to get a good seal ordered my rpm switch fuel pump fmu blow off valve and manual boost controller just waiting on my custom manifold to be done and getting ready to mach up my downpipe and exhaust cant wait to start assembly this weekend.
I will post pictures once I start assy
got an email from the people I ordered my rpm switch they want to know the window to set the rpm range when to come on and shut off what should I have them set it too
It should kick in around 3k and stay open.
What? Of course it run. Are you implying it will have to be in boost to run? This is ridiculous.
You don't need low compression for 6 psi. FMU and high octane is all you need. Jesus Christ.
Separate names with a comma.