1993 1.9L escort wagon running poorly after warmup | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
  1. Wash your hands and do not touch your face, keep it safe and clean. Long live Feoa!

1993 1.9L escort wagon running poorly after warmup

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by rafternugget, May 7, 2011.

  1. rafternugget

    rafternugget New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I've got a 1993 1.9L escort wagon lx with 195k on it. It starts out good, idle sounds good, decent acceleration,etc. in the driveway but in about 10 minutes it starts running very poorly. The more gas I give it the more it bogs down. After stopping at a light on a level road I can sometimes barely move(even though its idling fine). The more gas I give it the more it bogs down. If I put it in neutral and rev the hell out of it I can put it back in gear and move again, but with very little power. The strange thing is that if I turn the key off even for about 3 seconds and turn it back on I'm back to the start state where it's running well again. Lots of power etc. but then it goes downhill again a few minutes later.

    Also worthy of mention is that even though it has no power it DOES NOT stall. It seems to idle just fine, it just dies when I give it gas after warm up.

    So far I have changed: plugs, plug wires, coil, thermostat, water pump, MAF sensor, oxygen sensor, TPS. I have also taken the oxygen sensor out before the catalytic converter to test for a plugged converter and that does not appear to make a difference. The air filter appears very clean. Disconnecting the TPS seems to make it a little better but does not make the problem go away entirely and makes the idle very high.

    Please help! I love this escort, but this is very aggravating and we are approaching junkyard time if this doesn't get better soon.
  2. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

    Messages:
    7,495
    Likes Received:
    902
    Trophy Points:
    413
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Take off your damper a.k.a. harmonic balancer and inspect the notch. If the crank damper bolt isn't put to full torque spec, (a *little* red Loctite helps,) it may back off, allowing movement which will damage the harmonic balancer. (timing signal is then dynamically altered) Also, if there is even the *slightest* bit of damage to the crank key, replace the key. (in addition to the damper of course) By design, the damper should be softer than the key, and the key softer than the crankshaft. So there should be no damage to the crankshaft.
    zzyzzx and nvrm0r like this.
  3. rafternugget

    rafternugget New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    0
    ok. That's one thing I forgot to mention. I changed the timing belt myself and did take the harmonic balancer off (almost a year ago). Within the last month while troubleshooting I did check that and it was a loose a bit. I tightened it up but I didn't check the notch. Is that something that I could see while the engine was running? Would it look like it was wobbling a bit while running?

    I will check this today. Would this explain why it runs well when first starting up though?
  4. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

    Messages:
    7,495
    Likes Received:
    902
    Trophy Points:
    413
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Putting that damper bolt on really requires an air-tool. (impact) I'd imagine that whether it, starts out good and ends up bad, or starts out bad and ends up good, depends upon how that that notch was damaged/worn. Personally, mine did the complete opposite. (for awhile anyway) Started out bad, but after a minute it was better than fine. (got one hellova power boost :demon:)

    Unfortunately you can't adequately check the notch without taking it completely off. (back-end of the slot may be damaged)

    EDIT 13y12m17d:
    Tightening the bolt to torque without an air tool:
    Manual Transmission - put in first or reverse then have someone depress the brakes while you torque the bolt.

    Checking for the problem without removing the damper:
    Remove the serpentine belt and try to move the damper with your hand. It should NOT move at all.
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2015
  5. dave8338

    dave8338 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    927
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    168
    Location:
    Annandale, MN
    Sounds like the car is running correctly in the closed loop of the PCM and that once everything is warmed up and in open loop, the problem begins. Sensor related.

    Have you tested the coolant temp sensor?
    If it were mechanically related ie. retarded cam timing, in your case (and it still may be as the belt may have jumped a tooth on shut down with your loose crank pully) it would typically show signs, even at start up. I would verify that the CTS is within spec, and report back.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  6. rafternugget

    rafternugget New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    0
    ok, well let me start by telling you you're a genius. :)

    I took it off and most of what you said was true. First clue something was wrong was when I took the bolt off and the damper just about fell off. That was an indication things were too sloppy. The damper slot looks sort of like a V (rather than a strait slot) and the key is definitely worn, but bad news, so is the shaft slot. What in gods name can be done for that short of replacing the shaft? I can supply pictures if necessary. It looks pretty bad though.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  7. rafternugget

    rafternugget New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Dave,

    I DID disconnect the CTS because the car was overheating and the fan would not turn on. So it is currently disconnected. When it is disconnected the fan runs continuously and keeps the temperature within spec. Can you help me understand if this would contribute to the problem I'm experiencing?

    Paul
  8. dave8338

    dave8338 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    927
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    168
    Location:
    Annandale, MN
    Good Call, Intuit!! Tip of the cap to ya! 8)

    As for the CTS "causing" your crank damper issue...NO, it is not related. However, If the collant sensor is disconnected, you are removing it from the sensor equation and thusly, forcing the car to run without one of the primary inputs to the PCM and as a result, the car will run rich. MPG's will suffer greatly... The fan relay relys on the CTS to send its signal to the PCM when in open loop operation. A high collant temp situation should trigger the signal to the PCM and inturn, send the signal to the fan relay to start.

    ALL needs to work correctly or the entire system suffers... :!:
    zzyzzx likes this.
  9. rafternugget

    rafternugget New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I tightened up the timing belt (it seemed a little loose) and reseated the key and tightened the bolt with an air ratchet. Voila!!! Car runs like new. Well ok not new but MUCH BETTER. If it starts running badly again I will order a new damper and key but this fix required no new parts (yet).
    It's great to have my high MPG car back on the road again with these high gas prices!!

    THANKS SO MUCH INTUIT!!


    Anyone know where I can get a new CTS? Are they sold on eBay?
    zzyzzx likes this.
  10. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

    Messages:
    7,495
    Likes Received:
    902
    Trophy Points:
    413
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
    Even with the damper at full torque spec, there will still be movement.

    You NEED to replace the key and damper ASAP. The new key should have a tighter fit.

    To do otherwise, would be making a bad situation worse.

    As for the damaged crank, (ugh,) you might try stuffing some JB-Weld down in the gaps along with the new key. The local machine shop might have some opinions/tips about it as well. (first thing they'll say is bring it in, but try to get something else out of them next) Over-sized custom key and damper ? (make a mold of the slot with something soft-ish)

    ( Also, thanks for the thanks. Helps when one makes the same mistake... :? )
    zzyzzx likes this.
  11. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

    Messages:
    7,495
    Likes Received:
    902
    Trophy Points:
    413
    Location:
    Southwest Ohio
  12. Roarrr

    Roarrr FEOA Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    153
    Locktite WILL lock the pully and if you're never going to need to remove it that is the fix, you can heat it up with a rose tipped ox'/acet torch if you need to get it off tho you'll cook the seals!

Share This Page