1991 escort 266k, clutch not engaging...

yesterday my escort's clutch pedal goes to the floor and have to pump clutch pedal to get clutch engaged to shift gears... does the clutch need to be bled?

Until you repair, (which should be sooner rather than later,) just remember to never attempt a shift until you've completed your left turn.

Clutch master cylinder shares the brake master cylinder reservoir.

What isn't obvious is that this reservoir is compartmentalized; the clutch owning a tiny back corner of it.

Even if that clutch reservoir is low or empty, the enter reservoir itself will still appear to be ~75% full.
Trouble Bleeding the Clutch System ?
https://www.feoa.net/threads/common-problems.64420/#post-611819

Basic Rules:
1) If you're not loosing fluid then the leak is internal.
2) If you are loosing fluid then the leak is external.

With an internal leak, the ONLY possible culprit is the clutch master cylinder. (slave cylinder can ONLY leak externally) Replace the clutch master cylinder, bleed system, end of story.

External leaks can occur pretty much anywhere in the system.

There are only two rubber sections of line in the clutch hydraulic system. The unpressurized line between the reservoir and master cylinder rarely if ever leaks. The pressurized line between the clutch master cylinder and hard-line running over the transmission rarely if every leaks.

The metal lines and fittings pretty much never leak unless damaged by a human.

External leaks usually occur at the clutch master cylinder, where the clutch pedal's metal (adjustable) push-rod enters the firewall. Black hydraulic fluid may collect down in the carpet. (Red transmission fluid is the speed sensor seal - use paper towel to distinguish.) External leaks can also occur at the slave cylinder attached to the front part of the transmission. Clutch master cylinder is easy to replace. Do not need to mess with the radiator to detach/replace the slave cylinder.

The clutch isnt very old and has maybe 40 or 50k on it..... How do I bleed it?

How old it is unfortunately means zero. In my experiences the majority of new parts sold for 'scorts are junk; fail in a fraction of the time that OEM does. My experiences so far lend positive exceptions to parts sold by CarQuest, Napa, Dealership. Wouldn't recommend it for this case of course, but there are cases where even junkyard parts are advisable.

See my post above for bleeding tips.
You bleed from the slave cylinder on the front of the transmission just behind the radiator, using the valve, the same way you do a brake hydraulic system.

You will require either an assistant, or something to hold the clutch pedal down while you get out and release the bleed valve. Vacuum tool such as "Mighty Vac" can also be used to bleed hydraulic systems.

While there, pull the little boot off the end of the slave cylinder and make sure there isn't any residual fluid in it. If so, replace it. Don't know how probable it is, but it might be possible for a bad one to introduce air into the system; as the piston retracts.

Alright my friends, its been so hot here in Connecticut I didn't wanna go out there sweat trying to do this luckily I got my work van to drive around in the mean time..... Anyways, I bled the slave cyclinder but the pedal is still limp (fluid was coming out)... The piston doesn't look like it is moving much , but then again I don't really know how much it was moving before. Also there is no fluid leaking under the dash by the pedals. Is there something else that could be wrong is it the slave cylinder ? Looks like an easy r and r with just 2 bolts

Any air come from the system ?

As apart of of the "force multiplication" design of the hydraulics, the slave won't move nearly as much as the pedal.

The manual has spec on clutch pedal engage height, free-play, for the purpose of making adjustments at that rod. Lengthen the clutch pedal's push-rod first before settling on removing the clutch master cylinder. Also assuming that clutch disc material wear (slipping clutch with pedal up) has been eliminated also. It might have specifications for slave movement?

But otherwise, no external leaks and never having to add fluid, no air in the system, safe to say the clutch master cylinder is leaking internally.

It is a relatively simple repair. All you have to remove is the battery and battery-tray.** Be very very very careful about not damaging your fittings on the hard lines. Pay attention to the direction the nut is being turned and how much force is being applied.

**By the way, you will likely find that your battery tray bolts are rusted to hell. To address that issue, I bag my batteries. Restaurants that sell hot chicken (Popeyes, KFC, Boston Market, etcetera...) have huge bags that are temperature resistant and work perfectly. I stick a bunch of baking soda and paper towels in the bottom of the bag to neutralize acid. Never seal the bag at the top; just cover the terminals. The battery has to breath.

So your saying its the master and not the slave cylinder?

I'm not a simple yes/no person. When you were bleeding, did you manually push the slave cylinder piston back into the bore as mentioned in the link ? This means it isn't seizing. Other than seizing (which is highly unlikely) the slave can only malfunction by leaking. If it is true that there are no external leaks, and the rest of the aforementioned conditions have been checked, the only possible issue is the clutch master cylinder. It is the only part capable of leaking pressure internally.

Master cylinder is in.... Now car won't start...everything works (lights,radio, etc). Car has been sitting for maybe a month but I started a week or so ago and it has a brand new battery. Any suggestions?​

Did you put the ground wire thing back on the neagative battery terminal?

Bruce

yeah.... everything works (horn, lights, radio, etc) except the motor wont turn over.

Sometimes people inadvertently blow the 100A main fuse when messing with the battery terminals.

i know i've done it, but when i did i accidentally bridged a socket wrench from + to -.... i guess its possible but when the 100 a fuse was blown before the car did absolutely nothing

Could be the clutch switch has been broken/come unplugged..there is a switch that mounts somewhere on your clutch pedal..That's why you have to have the clutch pressed in to start it.

the clutch switch was disconnected years ago, i haven't had to push the clutch in the start it in a long time.... would that change when putting the master cylinder in?

Hmmm..I wouldn't think it would..Have you checked the starter?..Stupid as this sounds I have seen ford and Chevrolet starters give no warning and just go out...Chevrolet is more notorious for this..but I have seen Ford do it too.

UPDATE

Years ago I made it so the little white switch was engaged all the time on the clutch so I wouldn't have to press the clutch to start the car.... well when I was putting the master cylinder out the switch got broken and I had to rigg it up again, but car starts now..... Takes a while to bleed the clutch, for a while I had zero pressure and then all the sudden I had good pressure like it normally does. Thanks everyone for your help! car still runs great after a $25 r and r

Glad you got it fixed..For future references..Gravity bleed it or your bakes..I always gravity bleed mine..Then finished it out by having someone press the clutch or brake pedal while I bleed it.

What does gravity bleed mean?