FEOA Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, as you all know, I´m the proud owner of not only a 95LX wagon, but ALSO the very proud owner of a 91 Escort GT. I just bought it, and it was mainly driven in northern NY, so it´s got some rust and a few problems:

1. The "check coolant" light is on when I drive. I don´t know exactly what condition trips this sensor, but I have coolant in the radiator, and my temp gauge is well within the normal limits.

2. The "2 to 3" grind. Whenever I do my normal shift from 2nd to 3rd, I hear a very slight grind when the dogteeth of the collar catch 3rd gear. I´m wondering if the synchros on 3rd is shot, but even a slow shift will grind just slightly. I´m not talking like a huge grind- you can hardly even hear it, but you can definetly feel it in the shift knob when it happens. All the other gears are smooth and precise.

3. Fan selector "1" doesn´t work. 2,3, and 4 all work, but the lowest fan speed doesn´t.

4.Tachometer doesn´t *always* work. It usually doesn´t work, but sometimes, when I hit a bump, it will kick back in and start working. I don´t know where I can check the lines to see if I´ve got a loose connection.

5. The hood release cable broke.

6.Rust. One of the rear liscense plate lights fell completely out of the tailgate because it rusted away. The tailgate is in bad shape and needs to be fixed. How do I replace secions of the frame?

7. The seats feel too high up. Is there any way I can get the seats lower to the ground? I´m used to the "low rider" feeling of my LX :)

8. AC doesn´t work, but you can feel it draw from the engine when you turn it on. I think the lines are bad.

9. it leaks oil from the valve cover. about a quart every 3000 miles. I think the PCV valve may need to be replaced.

10. The rear defroster switch won´t stay on. It´s a toggle switch, and I push it and it will toggle into the on position, but the toggle isn´t quite right. The switch needs to be replaced.

Well, if anybody can help me with any of these, I´d appreciate it.

Little story:
This is the first day I brought the escort to my house, and I parked it out in the turnaround of my driveway and turned the wheels to the side (showin off the rims :)) and just parked it until I can store it the right way. About 15 minutes later, a guy in a blue ford F150 pickup drives by and slows down and scopes out my ride. That totally made my day :-]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
16-01-2003 at 17:31, siragan wrote:
Well, as you all know, I´m the proud owner of not only a 95LX wagon, but ALSO the very proud owner of a 91 Escort GT. I just bought it, and it was mainly driven in northern NY, so it´s got some rust and a few problems:

1. The "check coolant" light is on when I drive. I don´t know exactly what condition trips this sensor, but I have coolant in the radiator, and my temp gauge is well within the normal limits.

(Its usually the coolant level that triggers the sensor, make sure you have enough in the bottle. I find that i have to refill the bottle once every month or so. I have no idea where the coolent goes, but I´m pretty sure there aren´t any visible leaks. If filling the bottle doesn´t help maybe the sensors bad.)

2. The "2 to 3" grind. Whenever I do my normal shift from 2nd to 3rd, I hear a very slight grind when the dogteeth of the collar catch 3rd gear. I´m wondering if the synchros on 3rd is shot, but even a slow shift will grind just slightly. I´m not talking like a huge grind- you can hardly even hear it, but you can definetly feel it in the shift knob when it happens. All the other gears are smooth and precise.

(Sorry can´t help ya there)

3. Fan selector "1" doesn´t work. 2,3, and 4 all work, but the lowest fan speed doesn´t.

(My fan selector 4 doesn´t work, which really sucks when it super cold out. Search the forum for the answer to this I know its been mentioned before. I think it said to check the wires on the blower as well as the switch itself)

4.Tachometer doesn´t *always* work. It usually doesn´t work, but sometimes, when I hit a bump, it will kick back in and start working. I don´t know where I can check the lines to see if I´ve got a loose connection.

(My old scort did this. I would give me the strangest readings. I replaced it with a new "used" tach. It fixed it for awhile and then one day it swung backwards and now constantly reads 6500 rpm! It could be the tach itself or something else but I don´t know what)

5. The hood release cable broke.

(a coat hanger works wonders! Mine is broke too)

6.Rust. One of the rear liscense plate lights fell completely out of the tailgate because it rusted away. The tailgate is in bad shape and needs to be fixed. How do I replace secions of the frame?

(Same problem here, my car was also a new york car. You could actually fit your hand through the hole in the decklid, you could also fit it through the hole where the jack is supposed to be. You should also check the area around your struts behind the plastic covers in the trunk. When I removed mine I found that metal plates had been welded on to hold it together! I would suggest letting a professional handle these problems unless your really good at welding and applying bondo. I would suggest buying a new decklid at a junkyard, its just easier than trying to patch it up.)

7. The seats feel too high up. Is there any way I can get the seats lower to the ground? I´m used to the "low rider" feeling of my LX :)

(I dunno, sorry)

8. AC doesn´t work, but you can feel it draw from the engine when you turn it on. I think the lines are bad.

(It probably needs a recharge. Take to just about any garage and they can do it for you. Mine needs to be done as well, right now my a/c consists of 2 windows and a sunroof.)

9. it leaks oil from the valve cover. about a quart every 3000 miles. I think the PCV valve may need to be replaced.

(Same here, of course its got 180,000 miles on it too. Just get a new valve cover gasket, they aren´t that much and are easy to change. Oh and a new PCV valve, just because you should.)

10. The rear defroster switch won´t stay on. It´s a toggle switch, and I push it and it will toggle into the on position, but the toggle isn´t quite right. The switch needs to be replaced.

(Can you say junkyard! A very handy place for parts like this.)

Well, if anybody can help me with any of these, I´d appreciate it.

(I did my best, hope it helped a little)

Little story:
This is the first day I brought the escort to my house, and I parked it out in the turnaround of my driveway and turned the wheels to the side (showin off the rims :)) and just parked it until I can store it the right way. About 15 minutes later, a guy in a blue ford F150 pickup drives by and slows down and scopes out my ride. That totally made my day :-]

(sadly no-one ever looks at my car, its probably because they are too high up in there stupid ******* trucks or too low in there spring cut, fart blasting honduhs. But kudos to you for getting your car noticed)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
874 Posts
Hey Siragan, You forgot to mention that when the guy in the truck was "scoping out" your car he had a "What the Fu** is that piece of shi*" Look on his face. Either that or he was seeing if there was anything left on it to justify asking you if he could buy it for his junk yard. :-]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Hey Siragen, see if this helps with your heater:

Try checking the blower motor resistor. when it´s not working correctly the blower might not work at some speeds. If it´s the cause of your problem then your in luck, it´s very inexpensive.

Blower Motor Resistor . F7CZ19A706AA n . $6.27
-----------------
Orlando 93 EGT turbo (thank him, not me for this one)

Also, check the connections at the back side of the blower speed switch, and at the blower motor itself.
:cool: Congrats on finally getting a GT and good luck with it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
:-( Where I live, you really start to worry when people stop to look at your car. It usually means they´re deciding whether or not to come back and nick it!! :-Y
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
710 Posts
Yeah, what´s going on over there across the pond? I heard that the UK´s car-theft rates have risen nearly 900% in the last 5 years!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
O-kay! got the 1st fan setting working again- just a bad resistor in the fan speed setter thingy.

The rear defroster- I´ll stop by a junkyard and re-wire the switch, should be cakewalk.

The valve cover gasket was replaced recently, but it still leaks, I think that the problem may be that the surface of the valve head is not flush, or that the PCV kicked the can. I´ll replace the PCV today and tell you how it goes.

The check coolant light is still on. I´ll check the fluid levels. WHERE IS THE CHECK COOLANT SENSOR(s)?

The tach still doesn´t work right. Where is the cable hooked up? Is it hooked up to the transmission on a physical cable, or is it somehow integrated into the ignition system and controlled electrically?

I´m figuring out how to fix the hood release, should be fixed by the end of the weekend.

The rust is still there, I´ll check the strut towers for damage when I get home. How do I replace sections that have rusted out completely? Will I have to stick in a new section? If I do re-paint it, will you be able to tell the difference between the "old" and "new" paint?

Is there any way I can get the old paint (which is a little faded looking) to get super-hich gloss again? Do I have to completely strip the car down and re-paint?
How much would a full strip/re-paint cost on average?

Can I just wet-sand and use rubbing polish?

thanks guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,915 Posts
6, 8, 9, and 10 are all wrong with my car. but I don´t complain :) except the rust..i hate the rust its the only thing that makes my car look like shit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,915 Posts
The coolant sensor should be in the overflow tank off to the right of the radiator (when you´re standing infront of the engine looking at it). At least thats where when I refill it the light goes back off (gotta refill it then turn the car off, and then back on).

I think the speedo and tach are linked to the transmission electronically. not sure if your ECU is on the verge of a nervous breakdown or whatnot.

I would think fixing the rust, and repainting it would be like 3 to 4 grand if not more depending on the shop and quality of paint used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
Siragen, the low coolant level sensor is located between the airbox and the back side of the headlight. Look underneath the upper radiator hose. I think that´s the only sensor involved, unless it´s the coolant temperature sensor that´s setting that light off.
:p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey Siragon I know excactly why your check coolant light comes on even though your radiator is full. Its your resevoire. It has a sensor on it and if the coolant is lower than it then your check coolant light will come on. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I´ll grab some coolant tommorrow and fill up the resivoir container. It was completely empty when I checked. Thanks for the tip.

This tachometer issue is really tickin me off. I can´t stand it when I have a car that you need to "kick this way" or "yell at like this" to get things to work. They should work, period.

My hayne´s manual doesn´t state where the tachometer cable goes and how it works, and if anybody can explain how it´s all hooked up, I´d really appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
There is no tack cable that I know of. I´ve had the instrument cluster out on my car and the only cable there is the speedometer cable. I´m pretty sure its controlled electronically. The only way I know of to replace entire sections of rusted out metel, is to weld new peices in. You can cut out sections from a donor car so they are the same shape. I would let a professional do this; however, because it will ensure everything is done right. Make sure you check for rust on the strut towers from the inside of the car. If those rust through and break while your driving you could have some big problems. I think james was right on the paint job. For a really good job you´ll pay 3 to 4 grand. However you can get an ok paintjob at macco for under 500 dollars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Okay, I got the coolant problem fixeroonied.

But this tach problem... arg! Does anybody know for sure how it all works? Is my ECU bad?

Also, I dropped the radiator resivoir cap down into the "black hole" of the escort... right underneath the air resonator box! How do I get it out of there?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top