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How to swap a 2.0 SPI in to a Second Gen LX/Pony 1.9.

Here is the same info with pic's.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/419565/5

Quick overview:
-SPI Motor is 110 hp 125 ft lbs with a wider smoother power band than the 1.9 88 hp 107 ft lbs motor.

What makes the 2.0 SPI better?
To start with, it has a better flowing larger intake manifold that has the "IMRC" or Split Port's that has two runner sections for a higher wider power band. The throttle body is also larger, and to make it complete the valves and intake ports are larger to. The larger 2.0 displacemet and the higher compression ratio also help make more power, while the better balanced crank makes for smooter high RPM's. Every thing else is very simular the the 91-96 1.9.

How much faster will my car be with this motor?
It depends on if you have a 5 speed or auto, LX or Pony, 2 door or 4 and other modifacations. But with a increase of about 25% more power it should bring down your 1/4 mile time by about a second.

Will my 1.9 performance parts work on the 2.0?
Yes, every thing from ignition, pully's, headers to chips will interchange. Only the after market fuel presure regulator and cold air intake tube will be differant.

You will need:
-97+ Escort 2.0 SPI SOHC motor.
*Must use 97 Fuel rail and second gen clutch.

-SPI controller with relay and resister.

Cost:
-Low milage 2.0 SPI Motor $275-400
-SPI Controller $45-125
-New Gaskets, Filters and Misc. $35-55
-New 1.9 clutch $100-300 *Optional
*Prices do not include labor, but this is a handy man DIY project.

What car does the 2.0 SPI come from?
The third generation Escorts 97 and up. The Base Model Focus also has a 2.0 SPI but it is not compatibe.

Special Tools needed:
Engine hoist, ratch-it-strap, Ford fuel line remover tool, a goods set of standard and metric tools.

SPI Controller:
You will need a RPM switch to control the Split Port Motor (IMRC) because the 2nd gen PCM does not have a output to control it . When closed they help out with low end power, when open they add high end power. DO NOT remove the SPI plates or motor, they help with performance and the computer will not let the car idel right with the ports open all the time.
Works best to set the SPI IMRC to open at about 3000 RPM's.

SPI Controller Options:
-MSD RPM window switch, requires pills for differant RPM settings.
-Summit's RPM switch for $45.00 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... M%2D830449
- After market Tach with shift light output terminals. (wire relay to tach to power the motor) Then just set the shift light to what ever RPM you want them to open at.

To wire the SPI Controller:
Red/Green wire is positive, Brown is ground, the other two you dont need. The positive wire should be powered through a normal automotive relay to drive the IMRC motor. a A 1 to 3 ohm @ 25 watt resister should be used inline with the motor and relay to keep the motor from over heating and stripping gears. 1 ohm will take it about 1 seconds to open, 3 ohm will take it about 3 second to open.

Quick basic 2.0 install info:
1) Take out 1.9 motor, unbolt every thing but the intake manifold and every thing attached to it. (leave the long block alone)
2) Take evey thing you just unbolted and bolt it on the 2.0.
3) Put 2.0 in car.

General Info:
The only differnce from a 91-95 OBD1 to a 96 OBD2 is that throttle cable mounting (manual trannys) and TPS. It's a direct plug in for 96's only.
91-95 TB (throttle bodys) have the "key's " for the TPS (throttle position sensor) at a 45º angle off when compared to 96,97 and up (OBD2).

Important: you will need cut off the 91-95 TPS plug to use the 97 TPS and plug. Wire color codes are the same. You will need to exstend the TPS wire about 4".

The 91-96 injectors are longer than the 97+, but the flow size, impedance and plug are all compatible with the each other, so just to use the 97 injectors with your second gen.
After market injectors (for forced indution use) are the longer style like the 91-96, you will need to slot out the mounting holes on the 97 fuel rail to fit the longer injectors.
The 91-96 fuel rail will need a lot of modifactions to fit the 97, it might be easyer to modify a 98+ rail by adding a return line. (98+ Escorts have no returnline or FPR)
But if all posible, just use a 97 rail, FPR and injectors, it's compatible to the 91-96 system with out modifactions.

1.9 Parts that are reused:
Reuse 1.9 tranny clutch/flywheel, ignition system, oil pan, PCV tube, computer and wireing harness, MAF, IAC valve, starter, altinator, power steering pump, A/C compressor bracket, fuel pump, (New) O2 sensor, the entire termostat housing with the ECT and temp sender and exshast manifold.

Oil pan swap optional, If you use the 2.0 pan there is one bolt hole that will not line up to the 1.9 tranny and the there is also no down pipe hanger mount.

Sensor's that are the same from 1.9 to 2.0:
Oil presure, cam pos. and crank pos.

Motor pulling tips:

Pics http://www.intergate.com/~ttool/swap.html
http://webpages.charter.net/jeffescortlx/

Have new Fuel Filter, exhaust manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, PVC inlet tube gasket (only availble at Ford Dealer) and termostat with gasket.

Must use 91-96 flywheel and clutch, 97-up 2.0 will NOT work.

Fuel lines are a direct fit, just need to unclip to split them up,
one on each side.

You do NOT have to remove the tranny, axcels, shift linkage, or even the tires. But you will need to remove tranny side mount, completely remove passengers side mount and front tranny mount. Also remove the crank pully. This will allow you to use a ratch-it-strap to hold the motor/tranny to the drivers side of the engine bay giving you room to remove the motor from the tranny.

Unbolt the accessory bracket and push and tie to front out of the way, you can leave power steering pump and A/C compressor line hooked up.

Make sure to use the clutch disc alimnment tool while assembling the clutch.

Make sure to ground the bracket that holds the ECT and Temp sendor, other wise the temp gauge will go funky.

Note Automatic Transmissions users:
Follow direction in a repair manual.

Vacume lines:
Unscrew the vacuum line "tree" distributor from the 91-96 intake manifold. Make a coupler from a short piece of hose to connect it to the drivers side vacuum port. Then connect the brake booster hose, PCV, FPR hose, EGR if you have it,(use hoses from 91-96). On the passenger side port, plug in the cruse control. (Vacuum lines will vary w/ year.) Make sure to have no vacume leaks.

EGR System:
EGR vaires with year some escort dont even come with it. You may or may not beable to bend the EGR hose to make it fit, I just completely removed the EGR valve and tube, just make sure to seal up any vacume leaks on the intake manifold.

Exshaust manifolds are differnt from 91-96 to 97 and ones with and with out EGR bung, you may want to reuse the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FourDiceS04 said:
Wow, I know nothing about cars and you just made me feel confident I could do this on my own. i know i have a gt :)

Your really good at writting how to's!
Thanks, I'v been reaching and editing this "how to" for about a year, I have now had 3 motor's in and out of escort SOHC. This swap IS really easy. I can now take out a 1.9 motor, strip it down to the long block, build up the 2.0, and reinstall 2.0 in a escort in about 10 hour's.

A year and a half ago I never even changed my own oil. 8O
 

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Elec - Sorry, I don't sing, and you wouldn't want me singing anyway! :) Now my wife on the other hand... :wink:

Jeff - I hope you're not going by the picture in my sig, that's completely photochopped, I was bored at work one day and did that. I've been meaning to make the picture a bit more truthfull, but I've not really had the time lately.

Oh, and nice try, I'm not giving you my car! :wink:
 

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Omg. This thread is old but it is helping me a lot. I do have one question. Whe I got to the point of removing the torque converter from the flywheel by way of the starter opening, I noted that there was not enough room for a socket to even be put on the bolt. How then would be the best way to get that off?
 

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Omg. This thread is old but it is helping me a lot. I do have one question. Whe I got to the point of removing the torque converter from the flywheel by way of the starter opening, I noted that there was not enough room for a socket to even be put on the bolt. How then would be the best way to get that off?
Damn..um I had the same problem when removing my 2.0L engine and I forget how it happened but we just kept shaking the engine block to see if we could get enough room to get a socket in there and loosen it, but I believe the torque converter came out with the engine somehow and then I removed it. But you will have to get to those bolts, just keep trying.:thumbsup:
 

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Wow. A trip to the manual was insightful. There is actually a small plate under the transmission that is removed with 2 10mm bolts that allows super easy access to the flywheel to conver bolts.
 

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Yes. However it did not matter. The torque converter came out with it all anyways. Who the heck puts studs on a torque converter. I will just pull the tranny on mine as well to make stabbing easier I think.
 

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I see how to prevent this now. Unless it does go all blizzard I should be pulling a 2.0 Monday for my car. I would like to get rid of the egr. Not because I care but because I am not sure how I am gonna get the current egr to fit the new setup. But I will see how that goes. This is gonna be my first engine swap ever so any advice other than what is given here would be awesome. Any tips you guys have that make life easier, or speed things up. ( but I am gonna take it slow.) anything you guys got I would live to hear it. Things I should do now while it is out I would love. I gonna change the transmission mounts. They are pretty bad.

Well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Steering rack bushings if they need it and timing belt and water pump on new motor.
 
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Wow. I had not thought of the steering rack. awesome. Thanks. I am actually going to leave the water pump and timing alone due to lack of funds (this is an emergency transplant) and because they are actually really easy anyways. And I plan to have this engine out again so I can rebuild it and get it neutral balanced. I want this thing to run smooth as can be. I had just hoped it would be about another 4 months before I had to put her in lol. But yeah. I have toyed with the water pump idea. But defiantly going to check those bushings. Thanks for the awesome and quick reply :)
 

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I am not sure how I am gonna get the current egr to fit the new setup.
For the EGR I took the 2.0L Pipe and Valve for the 2.oL Intake Manifold and the 1.9L Pipe for the 1.9L Exhaust Manifold and cut them to fit each other using a Copper fitting I was going to get them welded but instead I just soldered and secured them together using jb weld...then they ended up sticking together over time because of the hot exhaust gas pouring through. I will eventually weld them, but for now they work together temporarily, i'm still not sure if it is leaking (in case of emissions I will get it welded.) If you have any more questions or need any additional info, check out my swap page and imrc page: http://www.feoa.net/threads/2-0l-spi-sohc-engine-swap-sticky.81693/ ........ http://www.feoa.net/threads/imrc-spi-rpm-switch-system-installation.81831/
 

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Awesome. Just awesome.
 
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