I recently did that same miserable job on my 94LX with power steering.
The size for that splined head pinch-bolt is probably a Torx-45. There is a Torx-47 size, which surprised me, as the others in the set go up by even "5's". But I couldnt get the Torx-47 to slide into the splines on the pinch bolt. I did get the Torx 45 to go in, fully seated, holding it in with about a 12" or 15" 3/8" extension on it. Holding it fully seated is important. I used a prybar (big screwdriver) to help the Torx bit be able to line up with the spline 'socket'.
I had trouble turning the 3/8 drive ratchet to unscrew it, even with a length of pipe slid over the ratchet: So brought out my 1/2" drive air impact wrench, with an adapter down to the 3/8" drive, and had an extension on that so I could be pushing strongly inward. To my surprise the air impact didnt loosen it in half a second, like I am used to with lug nuts. That bolt was stiff and made about two complete slow turns with the impact wrench rattling away. (air pressure was 12opsi). Finally it began to spin the bolt out fast. They must have used the mother-of-all-thread-lockers on that bolt. When I put it back in I also used the impact wrench, to make sure I got it tight enough - so the joint between the stub shaft and the collar would have no play in it.
Before I disconnected the u-joint from the stub shaft, I made sure to turn the steering wheel so the ends of the tie rods & the bellows were equalized left-to-right. With the rack disconnected from the steering wheel, I made sure not to turn the wheel much. I didnt want to have it be 'off' by 360 degrees from 'centered'. This was in the interests of not having the "clock-spring" be out of its 'mid-way' travel.
With each of my Escorts one of the first jobs I do after buying them is to free up the fasteners holding that front-to-rear crossmember in place. Depending on the amount of rust the vehicle had, the job can be easy enough - or a really serious headache. With my 92LX for instance I had to re-attach the two captive nuts invisible inside the transverse crossmember after they broke loose. I have an oxy-acetylene torch, and the work soaked up most of a summer weekend, cutting open, heating the nuts, brazing them back in place, and using a tap and die to clean up the threads on the fasteners - then welding the transvers cross member back shut and with a small flitch plate for strength.
Anyway, due to my efforts years ago on that crossmember on this car, it wasnt hard to unbolt and drop down. (With the crossmember out of the way I took the opportunity to change the transmision filter and gasket.)
With the power steering rack there are the two hydraulic fittings to undo. Luckily these werent overtightened and came out with a little tedious working in the cramped space.
The rack assembly came out of the car horizontally to the driver's side. I had pried off a plastic goody that I think is a splash guard that loosely fits above the bellows on the driver's side; it would have been in the way. This was after I had removed the battery and the battery tray.
I had to rotate the rack so the pinion was facing forward at about a 45 degree angle to the horizontal, and give the while assembly a good nudge to get it come out. These things seem heavier when you are lying under them getting grit in the face.
The new replacement went back in went fairly well. I installed the support clamp on the driver's side, - but minus the rubber bushing - until I had gotten the coupling of the U-joint back onto the stub-shaft of the pinion, and had the pinch bolt inserted to keep it from falling apart. Then I installed the bushings and the supporting brackets.
I think I only had to crawl under the car and back out again to stand up - about 50 times. I work outside and use large sheets of cardboard so Im not sliding around on the weeds and having the fire ants get to me.
My alignment method, after adjusting by eyeball, is to run a length of cord or twine, tied to the trunk latch, and brought under the rear bumper and to the side - so it comes forward touching the sidewalls halfway up the tire, on front and rear tires. With the steering wheel pointed straight ahead, I adjust the "toe-in" by turning the tie rod, until both sidewalls of both of the tires are just touching the twine. Doing this on each side in succession takes a while, but has always left me with excellent. treadwear; and a centered steering wheel.
The last stage is tightening the locknuts on the outer tie rod ends.