Shifter stuck in park

Discussion in 'ZX2 1998-2004 2.0L DOHC' started by korzo, Mar 6, 2008.


  1. korzo

    korzo New Member

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    The shifter on my 1998 ZX2 is stuck in park. I understand there's a little solenoid in there under the console that is probably sticking and locking the lever. Where is the solenoid and how to I reset it? Thanks.
  2. etherdonkey

    etherdonkey New Member

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    there's a little hole on the shifter face in the upper right corner that is covered by a cap. pop the cap off with a screwdriver and find something about the size of a pencil and slide all the way to the bottom of the hole. it's a override for the shift solenoid. (i have the same problem too.)
  3. korzo

    korzo New Member

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    Awesome. Thanks so much. If this works for me, is it OK to repeat it whenever I need to until I get it fixed? What would the fix be, a new solenoid?
  4. TexasTracer

    TexasTracer FEOA Member

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    Use it temporarily til you fix the shifter solenoid thing.
  5. Lou

    Lou New Member

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    Shift lock solenoid repair, without removing the solenoid

    I am an electrical/electronics tech by trade. So if it has wires going to it I try to fix it first before buying another! I have done other repairs on the car like this saving me hundreds of dollars in new parts. Prior to this repair I repaired the CRRM (?) module because the A/C/ clutch was not engaging. :D

    One electrcial/electronic troubleshooting stradegy I use is to suspect the moving parts first (switches and relays). I did so in this repair.

    My 2000 Escort Se began having problems with the shift lock not disengaging the lock to move lever out of park. With a troubleshooting light I checked for 12-vdc at the solenoid connector - with the key ON Yellow wire 12-vdc always on, on the blue wire with 12-vdc whenever the brake pedal is pressed. That all checked.

    I followed the wires to the little plastic box attached to the shift lock solenoid. With the key off I used a utility knife to CAREFULLY cut the little box away from the solenoid. It was rather easy as it is only attached to the solenoid body on ONE end only - the end opposite where the wires come in - attached at the end where the plunger goes in and out.

    Once the little box was free the tiny circuit board inside it UNPLUGS from the solenoid just like something that unplugs from a wall outlet. I opened the little box to fully expose a little circuit bard. It has ONLY two (2) components on it - a miniature relay NEC EA2-9NJ and a 320 ohm resistor. I did not suspect the solenoid coil itself (the part with the plunger) because it is just a roll of wire with no moving parts. I checked the relay and sure enough it was bad. When I went to order it I realized that the "9NJ" portion of the part number says it is a 9-vdc relay of the non latching type. Hmmmm, why did Ford put a 9 volt relay in a 12 volt system???? A failure by design item??? I ordered an NEC EA2-12NJ relay instead with the proper 12 volt rating. Cost? A little over two dollars plus shipping.

    While I waited for the relay to arrive I removed the bad relay using an exacto knife to cut through the leads "feet" of the relay. They are thin soft time metal and cut away easily. Cut between the body of the relay and the circuit board. DO NOT PRY OR ATTEMPTED TO FORCEFULLY LIFT IT. I DID NOT attempt to remove the relay by desoldering to avoid damaging the board. Only after the relay was removed did I use de-solder wick and tooth picks to clean the little relay mounting holes up. It is important NOT to force the removal of ANY debris to avoid damaging the board. It is important NOT to overheat any of the solder pads or they will separate from the board. If your solder skills are not up to it get a buddy to do it or take the work to a TV shop that will do the work for you for a few bucks.

    The new relay arrived a few days later. I soldered it in and put the little circuit board back inside the little plastic box. I lined up the two little tabs with the socket on the solenoid and plugged it in. I tried it - key on, brake pedal depressed. IT WORKS!! Yesss! I used a couple of zip ties to keep the little box/circuit board plugged in and tightly held against the side of the solenoid. Keep in mind that at no time did I remove the solenoid itself. It remained in the car. If you wsih you can check the solenoid by applying 12-vdc to it directly and watch it actuate.

    Bottom line, maybe two hours of work. Cost? The dealer want about $150 for a new one. Cost to repair it? Less that $6 with shipping.

    Lou
  6. Roger76

    Roger76 New Member

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    Lou where did you buy the relay. My daughter's Escort has this problem and I want to repair it. Thanks
  7. pmgo4th

    pmgo4th New Member

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    Could also be the brake light switch.
  8. Jaybird

    Jaybird New Member

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    Could you elaborate a little more on this (where it is located)?
  9. Krunch

    Krunch New Member

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    Re: Shift lock solenoid repair, without removing the solenoi

    Thanks for the info on the solenoid and removal I also took pictures to make sure if I had to do it again. Now all I have to do is find out where I can buy the relay.

    Krunch
  10. NathanE

    NathanE New Member

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  11. clocker

    clocker New Member

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    I know this is a old thread but did anyone take pictures? My car is stuck in park and I think the suggestion by Lou would fix it.

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