Engine PLEASE HELP THIS ONE HAS ME SCRATCHING MY HEAD!

Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by BKZOWN, Feb 8, 2017.

  1. BKZOWN

    BKZOWN FEOA Member

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    ok guys so I haven't been on the forums in a while forgive me in advance lol. but anyway my escort has a little over 170k miles on it now. I haven't driven the car in a few weeks due to the fact I was waiting for a new thermostat housing gasket and new bolts to fix a little leak but that's all taken care of now. so as I went to drive the car I could feel something wasn't right with the escorts idling. the car was racing almost as if power breaking. highest idle was at almost 3k rpm which was when in park or neutral. when in drive the idle still raced but wasn't as high but I had to keep my foot firmly on the brake so the car wouldn't take off. the car went to hot also due to the high rpm not moving. then as soon as I shut it car wouldn't start. I let the car sit a few hours went to start it and everything was fine until I hit the gas pedal then the crazy high rpm started again so I shut her down. has this ever happened to any of you guys?? id suspect a sticking throttle plate or bad idle air control valve. please if any help let me know.
  2. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    I've never had this happen. My first thought though is to check all of your vacuum lines and sensor connections. Double check.

    Tapatalk
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  3. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    Check engine light on?

    Did you unplug the tps sensor while replacing the housing, if so was it plugged back in?
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  4. buzzyj

    buzzyj FEOA Member

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    Might it be a sticking gas pedal cable, or maybe the spring that returns it? Just trying to be helpful!
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  5. 04Svt

    04Svt FEOA Member

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    Check the coolant temperature sensor Connection.
    If the wire is damaged or the connector plug is messed up and not intact it will race with high rpm as described..also will be hard to stop if driving the car.

    The coolant sensor is the 2 wire connection on the thermostat housing. The one wire sensor next to it is for the temp gauge in the cluster.
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  6. ShakeZilla19

    ShakeZilla19 My name is ^^^

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    your last line is a good place to start, sticky TB. Could also have a vacuum leak somewhere behind the throttle body: TB gasket, intake mani gaskets, IAC gasket.
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  7. pextor

    pextor Moderator Staff Member

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    this is the most important question. If the light is on, it's at least trying to tell you something is wrong.
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  8. BKZOWN

    BKZOWN FEOA Member

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    Gamer no check engine light on which I wish there was so I can at least have an idea to what is going on. I didn't disconnect the throttle position sensor. Took out the iac and cleaned it and nothing changed. I have to recheck my wires going to the sensors again how ever I would think a wire would automatically throw a check engine during start up self checks
  9. BKZOWN

    BKZOWN FEOA Member

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    Thanks shake I have to check when the weather gets better sucks bc my escort is usually my daily driver in snowy winter months bc it's awesome in the snow. I have to check bc this problem is driving me nuts. Should also mention the car is hard to start when the engine is warmed up. Cold starts are fine and so is the idle until you hit the gas pedal
  10. BKZOWN

    BKZOWN FEOA Member

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    Thanks I've tried this as well gas pedal isn't sticking
  11. thetubeamper

    thetubeamper FEOA Donator

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    I've got to agree with 04Svt and say it could be a coolant temp sensor, especially now that you mention it starts fine cold but not warm.
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  12. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

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    Do you have exhaust leaks? Have you checked for vacuum leaks with a flammable aerosol yet?

    I've seen symptoms like this with a blown intake gasket.. It had other symptoms, like no power brakes, but it would do highway speeds with no throttle. Half of the time it would barely stay running. Could be a leaking brake booster too.

    I ask about exhaust leaks because of o2 sensors and egr. Neither can deal with exhaust leaks in the wrong places. It's Sunday, give us as many clues as possible lil
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  13. rbailin

    rbailin FEOA Member

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    For the engine to idle at 3k rpms, there has to be a pretty large air leak at or beyond the throttle plate. It can't be the intake manifold gasket because the leak comes and goes. Same goes for the o-rings for the fuel injectors.

    There are only a few places for air to get into the intake manifold:

    1. The vacuum hose port for evap under the throttle body. This hose rots away.
    2. The PCV elbow where it connects to the manifold. This elbow rots away.
    3. The EGR valve. If the gasket were bad, it would leak all the time. If the valve sticks open occasionally, unplugging its vacuum hose would stop that. But exhaust gas isn't a good source of fresh air for the engine, a leak usually stalls the engine at idle.
    4. The main vacuum port on the passenger side. Supplies vacuum to the brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, EGR and heater controls. Disconnecting and capping this port would eliminate all those sources of leaks.
    5. The Idle Air Control valve. When you unplug the connector, I'm not sure if the valve closes or remains where it was.

    Do some prep work so that when the engine is racing at 3k, you can disconnect and quickly cap either the PCV or the main vacuum port and see if the idle drops to normal. You can also try removing the IAC valve with the engine running and plug the holes with your fingers, which should stall the engine.

    I'm assuming that the throttle plate isn't sticking open and that you've tried opening and closing it by hand without making the idle drop below 3k.
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  14. copcarguy

    copcarguy FEOA Member

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    Just throwing this out there:

    When my car sometimes has a wonky / high idle I clean the MAF with CRC MAF spray. If my car is "angry" it'll have an idle north of 2K rpms.

    Very annoying when it happens.
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  15. BKZOWN

    BKZOWN FEOA Member

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    Ok guys here's the update sorry I haven't been on work and stuff has been crazy and I've left my escort parked which sucks bc I miss driving it . When I had time to go look at the car I started it and finnaly had a check engine light which threw a code p0118 which was for coolant temp input high and showed that the computer was seeing forty below which would make sense why the idle was so damn high. However I replaced the coolant temp sensor and it fixed the problem a bit not totally . Car was running fine and now starting fine but still throws the cel and also randomly starts racing rmp. Literally intermitting problem is driving me nuts. Also noticed that now the rad fan is constantly on? So I'm starting to suspect my ccrm can be going but does anyone know if that would throw a p0118? Thanks again. Also if I unplug my iac valve which was my first suspicion the car dies so I don't believe it's that
  16. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    What brand was new sensor?
  17. BKZOWN

    BKZOWN FEOA Member

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    Gamer it was duralast gold
  18. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    I would try a motorcraft one. I don't like using aftermarket sensors. BWD is a good brand but not a big fan of store brand names
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  19. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    The reality is store brand parts are just repackaged major brands which in some cases are repackaged OEM parts with the brand name removed.

    So, is it still throwing the same P0118 code? What does the scan tool now read the temp as? You could have a wiring issue. These cars will run the radiator fan constantly if the temp sensor is unplugged.
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  20. spearjh

    spearjh FEOA Member

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    I'm with madmatt2024 - you're still dealing with a temp sensor issue, but the wiring was bad rather than the sensor.

    I will be clear that I do not know the specifics on how the system is set up on the escort as I've never had to mess with mine. But a typical coolant temp sensor works as a resistor. The computer sends a reference voltage (generally 5V) and the sensor cuts that down based on the amount of resistance (higher temp = more resistance = lower V signal returned to computer.

    Knowing what your scanner says for the coolant temp after the new sensor would be good.

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