HOW TO: change cooling fan relays to regular ones

Discussion in 'How-To's' started by elmauro86, Dec 5, 2006.


  1. elmauro86

    elmauro86 FEOA Member

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    i was gettin the same problem almos every escort has... fan never came on, or when it did... it only lasted a few minutes then turned off, well after a lot of experimenting, the ford service manual, and my multimeter, i found that the high speed relay wasn't givin out any voltage, even tho it clicked, and when i fed manually voltage to the low speed relay, it heated and quit doing its job, normally i would just replace them, but when i say that they were only 20Amp... i thought "what the heck, this thing ain't fit for heavy duty jobs" and played with the idea of using regular relays (the universal ones, the black squares)... well this thing has worked so far without problems, ok this is how to do it

    You'll need:
    -2 SPDT relays
    -Electric Tape
    -something to destroy the original relay's harness

    this is how a spdt relay looks like:
    [​IMG]

    first, you need to remove the throttle air hose:
    [​IMG]
    then, remove the connector from the maf and the other sensor
    [​IMG]
    then remove the air filter housing, by removing the three bolts
    take the air filter housing out of the way, you will now have access to the relays, they are under a plastic protector, just pull on them till they are out.
    now release both relays from their connectors and find a way to take out the wires WITH their terminals, i found easier to just rip the plastic connector, since i was never gonna use them again, then just connect the wires like this (do one relay at a time, makes life easier)
    [​IMG]

    the final result should look like this:
    [​IMG]

    install all removed parts, just reverse the procedure

    test to check that all wires are installed correctly, fan should come on after a little warm up time
    have fun!

    -elmauro86
  2. coldblooded

    coldblooded New Member

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    Nice writeup, smart move. Those proprietary relays they use are pretty pricey, and hard to get.
  3. elmauro86

    elmauro86 FEOA Member

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    thanks, those were reasons i didn't wanna just replace them... oh i forgot to put in the howto that the relay on the fusebox (H270??) also was toast, and i put in a PILOT brand one from autozone, it dropped right in, and is rated at 12V 30A, which is higher than stock too, seeing that converting that one in the fusebox is kinda hard...plus it keeps the "stock" look to it 8)
  4. Onegimp

    Onegimp New Member

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    The damn plugs on my 96gt melted so I did the same thing and wired up normal relays.
  5. therieldeal

    therieldeal FEOA Member

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    perhaps i should consider doing this, with my high amperage fan i am putting in and all :p
  6. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I would have tried opening up the relays and cleaning the contacts inside. Sometimes you can do that.
  7. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    Okay, I'm looking at the relay schematics in my Haynes manual which look kind of like the ones on AutoZone's site:

    Cooling Fan Schematics

    I have a 1995 1.9L with AT. According to my Haynes, that matches the bottom schematic (top is for 1.8L). I figured adding the schematics would be helpful to other people. (If anyone wants to check out other years, check here.)

    I'm looking into doing this mod since the fan stopped working. I have it hardwired to be on all the time when the engine is on for now.

    In the top schematic, there are two Coolant Temperature Switches (one to turn the fan on/off, and the other to select high/speed low speed). In the bottom schematic, instead of going to Temp Switches the relay coil grounds go "TO ECC OR PCM". IN the ECC schematic, there are no Coolant Temperature Switches. My question is this: For my model of Escort, are there Coolant Temperature Switches? Or does the controller just key off the Coolant Temperature Sensor and set the grounds according to the measured temp? Should I even be checking Coolant Temp Switches, or is my problem very likely just the relays?

    Good writeup, by the way.... the only thing I would suggest is when you tape up the relays, tape over the unused terminal on the Low Speed Relay. That contact has 12V on it when the fan is off and could protentially short to ground if it came in contact with anything (and probably blow the fan fuse).
  8. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    I had trouble finding the relays, but I finally figured it out after looking at other threads.... I'll be putting some additional pics up.
  9. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    Okay... elmauro86 provided the know-how, but I'd like to thank him by supplying some additional background to make this How-to even better:

    First, I checked the relay in the engine compartment fuse box:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Although it is scorched (on the output pin), it still works so I left it in there for now. I will look into replacing it soon.

    Then I wanted to get to the other relays. I disconnected the sensors on the intake:
    [​IMG]

    Then I loosened the mounting bolts for the air box:
    [​IMG]

    and loosened the clamp at the intake manifold:
    [​IMG]

    and pulled up.... only to find another hose that had to be disconnected from the air box:
    [​IMG]
    I pulled the hose off the air box and the box came right out.

    After looking around, I found the relays for the cooling fan and disconnected them (they are held in my a single 10mm hex head bolt):
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I got two relays (rated at 30 A) just like elmauro86 recommended, at O'Reilly Auto parts; they cost about $3.50 each. I also got some shrink tubing at Harbor Freight for $2 (more on that later), so the total repair was less than $10.

    So I unplugged the relays, then
    [​IMG]

    I removed the terminals from the connector shells with a flat screwdriver. Note which side I'm poking the screwdriver in, relative to the connector latch. I pushed it in until I felt it compress the little lock that holds the terminal in, then I pulled both the screwdriver and the wire out. Voila!
    [​IMG]

    Before plugging the terminals onto the blades of the new relays, I covered them with shrink tubing to make sure they were insulated:
    [​IMG]

    And then I plugged in the relay:
    [​IMG]

    I attached the new relays to the bracket that held the old ones together; I drilled a hole through both flanges and put a bolt and nut through, then put the old boot back over them:
    [​IMG]
    Yes, I know one slipped off; it's back on now!

    I put everything back together and, it WORKED! The fan now goes on when it should. Thanks again, elmauro86; I couldn't have done it without you!
  10. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    I forgot to mention....

    I was asking around the forum whether there are temperature switches on the 1.9L Escort (like the 1.8L has). The answer is "no". There are two sensors though... one feeds the EEC and one feeds the gauge on the instrument cluster:
    [​IMG]
  11. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    Okay.... the last chapter of the cooling fan relay story:

    I got the relay that goes in the fuse box today. I got it at AutoZone for $16.99. Here are all the numbers I could find on it (to help others locate the relay if they need to):

    AutoZone Catalog No. 41-5093 (also on the box: C6J)
    GP SOrensen by Standard Motor Product Part No. JD191R-12V

    The original part said H270 on it. According to AutoZone's catalong the Ford part number is some oddball thing, but I noticed there is a Mazda part number that has H270 in it.

    Some pics (yeah, my camera sucks...):
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  12. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    Someone pointed out that some of the relay connection information is no longer there; maybe this will help:

    For this kind of relay (standard automotive relay),
    [​IMG]

    Connect the wires as follows:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  13. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    [deleted double post]
  14. Onegimp

    Onegimp New Member

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    I used a 4 pin and 5 pin relay instad of two 5 pins.
  15. elmauro86

    elmauro86 FEOA Member

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    Doohickie, i know this thread is a bit old, but check your diagram... in my setup the low speed relay's pin 87a IS used, and the 87 is not... and that's the way it works, at least on the 93 1.9L, that is.... by the way i have now replaced the fusebox relay too... a little ghetto but i did it because i got that same relay as you at autozone, and kept melting on its terminals and i got sick of it... weird thing is that the fan motor is brand new, so i don't know why was it melting every time, if anyone is interested i can make a new writeup of converting the last propietary relay into a universal type

    p.s. i just loooove putting relays on the scort..they always help not burning things up... right now it must've got like 10 or so.. (not counting factory relays lol)
  16. leeerickson

    leeerickson FEOA Member

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    fan

    which wire going to the fan is the power and ground?

    i am hooking up to aftermarket fans and the fans have power ground thats it so what to do with the low and high speed also?
  17. Team_Slow_Speed

    Team_Slow_Speed New Member

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    on a 5 pin relay blade 87 and 87a have the same function, so either way is acceptable.

    btw, thanks for the info guys, my escort is heating up every chance it gets lately here in cali because of the heat, and ive noticed since i got it thast the fan doesnt work right.

    Callen
  18. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    I found a difference between the AutoZone schematic I linked to upthread and the schematic in my Haynes manual. If the AutoZone schematic is correct, then my diagram is correct. If the Haynes is right, you have it figured out. Does anyone have the actual Ford manual to do the tiebreaker??

    The question is, for the Cooling Fan Lo Speed Relay, is the Yellow wire supposed to be connected to the normally open or normally closed terminal?
  19. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    NOPE, that is incorrect. Pin 87 is connected to Pin 30 only when voltage is applied across the coil (Pins 85 & 86). When there is no voltage across the coil, Pin 87A is connected to Pin 30. Think of Pins 87 and 87A as Red Light/Green Light- only one is lit up at a time, and only when the other one is off.
  20. Doohickie

    Doohickie FEOA Member

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    I found a tiebreaker that makes it look like the AutoZone schematic (and my directions) are wrong:

    Link to schematic

    That looks like a scan out of a service manual too. So I guess the answer is that I should have connected it to 87A! I've updated the diagram on the previous page of this thread to show the Lo Speed Relay with the Yellow wire going to Pin 87A.

    Looking back over what I wrote last year, this is another giveaway:
    In retrospect: D'OH! :roll:

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