Clunking sound when making left/right turns

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by LeraiPalmer, Jun 7, 2011.


  1. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    I replaced the tie rod ends a week ago. The drivers side was so shot, that i literally lifted the top part up by hand. I had to cut the bottom bolt off with my angle grinder bcause it was rusted.

    Anyway, im still feeling it in the steering wheel. Im wondering what else is a common part to go on these cars.... Ball joints maybe?
  2. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    My first guess is ball joints.
  3. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    I believe thats an easy fix...and inexpensive too. Ill grab those next paycheck and report back after ive replaced them.
  4. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    Lift and support the front end. Shake the wheel up and down/in and out vertically. There should be no play. Sometimes going back and forth like checking tie rod ends will show ball joint play.
  5. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    Any other noises from the front end such as roaring? If so you could have wheel bearing going out.
  6. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    no roaring.. heres pics of the tie rod..nasty

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    Lifted it by hand

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    Cut the bottom off with my angle grinder. It wouldnt come off with the rachet.

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    I hope this nver happens to anyone.

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    All better now. I cant believe it didnt come off in the 3hr drive i did from milwaukee to tomah
  7. fordescortfan

    fordescortfan New Member

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    usually in this case your car needs a bj..ball joint.
    my 89 started thunking when i would first back up or first go forward then around turns. i looked at the car and saw that the bushings were torn to shreds, leaking grease and everything. once i replaced the ball join it never did it again! :)
  8. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    That wear doesn't happen over night. Have a good look at other components; that is a real safety concern.
  9. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    I shook the tires like you suggested. There wasn't any play, but the ball joints look as old and beat up as the tie rods,..so maybe ill just replace them anyway. Any tips to make the ball joint swap easy? From what i saw, i think u just unbolt the spindle nut(ball joint peg nut?), hit control arm with a hammer or sumthing till the control arm drops down a little bit, then you unbolt those 2 bolts holding the ball joint to the control arm. Does that sound about right?

    Im taking the car to get a front end alignment soon too, so maybe the shop will notice things that i missed.
  10. badassescort

    badassescort FEOA Member

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    They make a tool to remove them. it's a fork. They are pretty easy to change. Just remove ball jointt to spindle nut first, then seperate , then remove bolts that hold it to control arm. If the ball joint want to spin while loosening or when you tightening it back up just place a jack underneath and apply pressure. It will keep it from spinning.

    If you don't have a picklefork then rent one. If you don't wanna rent one then just beat it out with the hammer.

    From the looks of those tie rod end I bet the ball joints are shot as well.
  11. badassescort

    badassescort FEOA Member

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    One more thought. Is it a single clunk or a multiple clicking sound when u turn?
  12. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Your driver-side (and likely passenger too) outer CV boot(s) is/are gone. Within the next 10-40k at most, you'll be be replacing the CV axles. The noise to look for is higher pitched, brief squeaks or squeals when turning or going over bumps. It may require very specific movements to "activate" the noise(s) at first. Non-lubricated CV can generate a ton of heat, which may stress surrounding parts, such as your wheel bearings.

    Re removing the ball joints, the OEM (still good @ ~220k) came out pretty easy. The non-OEM replacements (bad within 20k of installation) I put some PB Blaster lubricant on it's pin, used a crowbar to pry apart the fingers a little, rotated the already unbolted ball-joint arm, then hammered on the arm to remove.

    As far as detecting that it was bad, it did make knocking and clunking noises over bumps, especially if turning. Also made the vehicle wonder quite a bit while driving. Even though the passenger joint was completely shattered, pulling and pushing on the bottom when jacked up, didn't seem to budge it. So I didn't know it was shattered until it's removal.
  13. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    I just got back from Oreillys. I picked up the pickle fork you mentioned (ive seen them b4 but forgot about em). Picked up both ball joints, will do the install later today after i get some rest. I work 3rd shift at the VA :salut: Ill take sum pics for other ball joint noobs to use as a reference.
    It a single clunk. I remember back when i had my chevy beretta(i miss that car), it had multiple clicks and it turned out to be the axle
  14. badassescort

    badassescort FEOA Member

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    Your gonna love that thing , makes light work on most. Only thing to watch out for when using the fork is to be carefull not to cut the boot on a part your not replacing. If u do put some rtv to keep it sealed up.
  15. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    all done.. from start to finish
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    I used an old big exhaust pipe for leverage between the control arm and axle. I used a few different sized wrenches and socket wrenches..sizes 15-18 i believe, pickle fork, liquid wrench, rubber mallet and also a grease gun. When i stuck the pickle fork in, i used my 250lb frame as leverage to release the ball joint peg from the deadly grip from which it was held. Funny, 1 of the new ball joints had grease in it while the other, i had to put the grease in. The drivers side BJ had alot of play in it. No more clunking. I guess motor mounts and axles are next.
  16. 94scortlxlover

    94scortlxlover New Member

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    ya looks like ya axle boots arent too far off. to be truthful if they arent making noise id just repack an put new uni boots bac on
  17. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    So i took the scort in for an alignment and they said I need both inner tie rod ends replaced before the alignment is done. I watched a youtube video of a guy replacing the ones on his 03 sierra. It looks kinda simple.... but i was shopping online for the removal tool...and they seem to be $60+ I haven't consulted the manual yet but i wanted to get the advise and opinions on how to do this job with ease.
  18. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    I watched another youtube vid. This guy unbolted the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle...then used something call a "crowfoot", 1/2 socket wrench and long extention and took it all off at once. After looking at crowfoot wrench sets on amazon, i realized i have seen these before. What size should i use for the scort? I dont know if they can be bought individually from the auto parts store but i guess i can find out. This seems like a cheaper route than the inner tie rod removal tool which is $60+

    Youtube vid.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpuz-gf9pA
  19. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    update, went to Oreillys to get the inner t-rods for $24.70. Unfortunately, they're crowfoot set is way too small. I will need something bigger than 1in. Going to the shop next
  20. LeraiPalmer

    LeraiPalmer New Member

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    I haven't fixed the inner tie rods yet. I was wondering could I just use vise grips or a big adjustable crescent wrench to remove the inners instead of a specialty tool?

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